Posted on

So, What’s in, or on, a Pierogi?

The Short Answer: In Canada, Just About Anything

Pierogies (Poland); varenyky, pyrohy (Ukraine); bryndzové pirohy (Slovakia); Ajdovi krapi (Slovenia); vareniki (Russia); derelye (Hungary); colțunași (Romania/Moldavia); piroggen, Kurländer Speckkuchen, Schlutzkrapfen (Germany); prairie pillows (Canada).

In this article, I’ll use the Polish spelling: pierogi, pierogies. Generically pierogi means ‘filled dumplings.’ It derives from Old East Slavic, пиръ (pirŭ) and further from Proto-Slavic *pirъ, ‘feast’.

These are just some of the countries where this popular food is made and eaten. Its many different names speak highly to its popularity around the world. In Canada, where we have such a diverse mix of peoples from all over the world, it’s not too surprising that our pierogies come in many sizes, shapes and tastes, even when made by people from the same country. Canadians have given them at least one unique name that I’m aware of – ‘Prairie Pillows.’

Yum. Everyone’s eaten them. Or even made them. Those oversized doughy dumplings with fillings ranging from assorted meats, cheeses, potatoes, cabbage, onions and sauerkraut. Even fruits. Then boiled, and fried, if desirable. And topped with a variety of ingredients such as the ever-popular sour cream.

After doing some research on this tasty food, and making my own pierogies for many years, I realized people have put just about anything in a pierogi. And, on it. And Eastern Europeans, where it’s so popular, have been creating different varieties of pierogies for centuries. The most popular commercial frozen pierogies in Canada are the mashed potato and cheddar cheese varieties. Specialty shops in larger Canadian centers will likely have a much larger assortment to choose from.

For more history on the pierogi in Canada, read Gabby Peyton’s article on some iconic foods in Canada.

Our Family Background

As a small child, I watched my mother make pierogies for hours on end. A very time-consuming undertaking, if you’ve ever tried it. She made them the Polish way. Both our families (Pyszczyk and Kleister) come from Poland. My mother’s side (Kleister) farmed along the Vistula River, north of Warsaw, where they had lived for over three-hundred years, after immigrating from there fro western Germany. And my father’s side (Pyszczyk), moved from the western Ukraine, and farmed south of Krakow, closer to the Czechoslovakian border. Both families considered themselves Germans. But, they made and ate Polish-style pierogies.

Growing up, I wasn’t always sure what I was. German? Polish? Or Ukrainian? It wasn’t too long before it was pretty obvious. Canadian. Regardless of my ethnic background(s).

Polish Pierogies

In Poland the pierogi is of considerable significance. In fact, it is one of the country’s national dishes. In the thirteenth century it was peasant food and a staple of the Polish diet. It soon spread through all the social classes. By the seventeenth century, special kinds of pierogies, each with different shapes or fillings, were being created for each of the many Polish holidays. And also for everything from weddings to wakes.

My Mom’s Pierogies

Mom’s pierogies were pretty simple. As are many traditional pierogi recipes. She always filled them with quark (milk curd, similar to cottage cheese), made from fresh milk. I always marveled at the process. Mom would take a small flour sack, fill it with milk, and then hang it up in the kitchen. Then she put a pail under it and let the liquid slowly drain out of it for a couple of days. And before you knew it. Quark. (Note: I wish I had paid more attention to this process. Can’t remember now if she used buttermilk or just raw milk, or both.) She added a little salt to the quark along with chopped onions, and the filling was ready.

Mom’s dough was quite simple too. White flour, water, maybe an egg or two, and a little milk. Mix it all up and knead it. Using her hands, mom would roll and stretch the dough into a long, thick rope, and then cut it into approximately one-inch sections. Then came the time-consuming part. Roll out each section of dough. Then make each individual pierogi by hand, boil them, and then fry them in bacon fat and onions. Mom’s pierogies were bigger than what I see in stores and restaurants today. We would add a dollop of sour cream on top, and they were ready to eat.

My Pierogies

I began helping mom make pierogies when I was pretty young and then eventually started making my own. Soon I was developing my own style and tastes, experimenting with different fillings. Even today, I’m still dabbling with new fillings and spices. And when I did a little research on Canadian pierogies, I realized when it comes to pierogi fillings and toppings, the sky’s the limit.

Like my writing style, I cook ‘by the seat of my pants’. My batches of pierogies are rarely ever the same size, shape, or taste. Sometimes, I add a certain spice or ingredient I haven’t tried before. There’s no written down, detailed recipe of specific measurements of ingredients. Occasionally when I make a real good batch, I think, ‘maybe I should write this one down.’ But, I never seem to get around to it.

Here are the three main varieties of pierogies I make. I’ll just briefly describe and summarize the first one. I’ll go into a little more detail on the last two varieties which I made recently (and took a few photographs while making them). I created these two types out of more traditional recipes over the years. I won’t bore you with the proportions of the ingredients. It all depends how many pierogies you want to make and what your tastes are like.

Dough

I use only white flour, water, and salt for my dough. I’ve tried egg dough and find it gets too rubbery and hard when boiled. I’ve tried milk in my dough’s and find the dough gets too flaccid and is not elastic enough. (Maybe I should try the two together?) Don’t make the dough too dry. It has to be slightly sticky so you can seal the filling inside.

Large ball of dough ready to be made into pierogies. A lot of ingredients were added to pierogi dough over the centuries. Mashed potatoes, creating a smoother texture. The Czechs and Slovaks add curds and eggs to their dough. The Ukrainians add fermented milk products to bind the dough together. In Slovenia, they make the dough out of buckwheat, instead of wheat flour.
Cabbage and Mushroom Pierogies

I found this recipe in a Ukrainian cookbook years ago and adapted it slightly to my tastes. It consists of boiled, chopped cabbage, with sauteed mushrooms, and onions. Mix the cabbage in with the mushrooms and onions. Add salt and pepper according to your tastes. Add enough lemon juice to the mixture so it tastes slightly tangy. Or, add more lemon juice for a more sour, stronger taste. These pierogies go well with a meat or cottage cheese pierogi. In Poland and the Ukraine, sauerkraut is often used instead of the cabbage and lemon.

Ground Beef Pierogies

First, break up and fry about a pound and a half of lean ground beef in a skillet. I add finely chopped onions, salt and pepper to the mixture. Occasionally I add some thyme and oregano for extra flavor. Once the mixture is thoroughly cooked and browned, drain away as much of the grease as possible. Set aside and let cool before filling the pierogi.

Grease is the enemy when making pierogies. If it gets on your hands or on the edges of the dough, the dough won’t stick together very well. And you’ll end up with ‘sinkers‘ (pierogies that leak when being boiled and sink to the bottom of the pot).

Preparing the ground beef and onions in a large frying pan. I use salt and pepper liberally, and some oregano and thyme. Season as you see fit. The more seasoning, the stronger the taste.
I spread out a ball of dough with a roller for each pierogi. No cooky cutter approach here. Then I add two heaping tablespoons of meat filling, fold and close the dough up by pinching the ends together. Don’t get grease on the edges, anywhere, or there will be trouble when you boil the pierogies. I’ve made a tomato paste and ground beef filling before. Although they tasted great, I found these pierogies were even harder to seal than just a ground beef mixture.
Cottage Cheese and Cheddar Cheese Pierogies

These are my favorites and truly a hybrid of what my mom used to make. I like spices and strong tastes. I always found mom’s pierogies a little bland. Dad didn’t like spices very much. So, over the years I spiced my pierogies up a bit.

Ingredients include dry cottage cheese, the strongest cheddar cheese you can lay your hands on, a bundle of green onions, salt and lots of pepper. Dump the cottage cheese into a large bowl. Then shred the strong cheddar cheese into it, and mix well. About one-third cheddar to the cottage cheese. Or more, if you want a cheesier, stronger taste. Sometimes I pop in an egg and mix it all up. Sometimes I forget…

Note: There’s one thing I have noticed about pierogi fillings. When you boil the pierogies, it seems to suck a lot of he flavor out of the filling. That’s why I make the fillings really strong-tasting. By the time they’re boiled, then fried, they mellow out.

Dried cottage cheese, strong/old cheddar cheese, and green onion filled pierogies. As with the meat-filled pierogies, I put two heaping tablespoons of filling onto a rolled out dough ball. Then seal it. This variety of pierogi is not as difficult to seal as the greasier meat-filled pierogies.
The finished product. Ready to boil.
I’ll make anywhere from three to six dozen pierogies at a time. It may take hours of work, but then I have many meals. Divide the pierogies into meal-sized portions and freeze. With the size of my pierogies, I find three pierogies per person is usually enough.
Place the pierogies in low boiling water for about three to four minutes. Boiling them too hard might burst them. Oh, I think I see a ‘sinker.’ Once boiled, fry the pierogies on low heat in a large frying pan with a bit of oil or bacon grease. I like to slice in a third to a half of a medium onion when frying them.

Pierogies in Canada

I’m betting there aren’t many places in Canada where you can’t find pierogies on the restaurant menu. Here in Edmonton, with its high Ukrainian, Polish, and German populations, many restaurants make and serve them. I selected two restaurants in Edmonton, and a few more across the country to see what they put in, and on top, of their pierogies. Because of the coronavirus outbreak, I didn’t personally check out the two restaurants in Edmonton. But I will.

Wendy’s Gourmet Perogies

Located on 4532 – 99 Street NW in Edmonton, this small diner specializes in Eastern European cuisine. It has very good ratings and lists a variety of pierogies on its menu. In fact, Eastern Europeans probably wouldn’t recognize some of the varieties. Like Jalapeno & Old Cheddar.

Wendy’s lists ten different varieties of pierogies (spelled ‘perogies’ on her sign). It’s pretty obvious from her menu, that there’s a wide variety, including fillings adapted more for the Canadian palate. Restaurants are experimenting with different fillings, as they probably have for centuries.
Loaded Pierogi, Edmonton

Located on 10815 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton, this small restaurant really loads up their pierogies with all kinds of toppings. From the few photographs I looked at, it was often hard to find the pierogies under all that topping. This establishment receives very high reviews, including some from Polish folks who claimed they were excellent.

The Loaded Pierogi restaurant in Edmonton lists a variety of toppings on its pierogies, which you can pick and choose from. Like Wendy’s Perogies, this restaurateur is experimenting with a variety of new fillings and toppings. Including: Roast Chicken and Avocado Club Pierogi; Wild Mushroom and Truffle Pierogi; and, Montreal Smoked Meat Pierogi, just to name a few. Always looking for that great Canadian pierogi experience.

A-R Perogies in Saskatoon lists seventeen different varieties on their menu, including ‘Beef Tortellini.’ In Winnipeg at the Fusion Grill you can order pierogies with duck sausage in a thick creamy sauce. The Marion Street Eatery, Winnipeg, occasionally serves sweet potato pierogies with chicken apple sausage. In Toronto at the European Delight, you can order veal pierogies, among others. When in Montreal, check out the MTL Blog, for a list of restaurants serving great pierogies. The Euro Polonia restaurant in Montreal serves pierogies filled with bacon or kasha (porridge made usually from buckwheat groats). In St. John’s, Newfoundland, the Pyrohy Kitchen offers a variety of pierogi fillings.

‘Canadianizing’ the Pierogi

Of all the Canadian restaurant menus I researched, my favorite turned up in Victoria, British Columbia. It speaks loudly to what I’m talking about: Pierogies, and other foods, are constantly changing. The Sult (umlaut over the U) Pierogi Bar in Victoria takes ‘Canadianizing’ their food to a whole other level. And the ‘Pierogi Poutine’ on their menu wins first prize.

Pierogi Poutine. Where else but in Canada. This restaurant is working hard at making a genuine Canadian pierogi.
The restaurant’s mission statement. I changed their dark writing to white so you can read it easier here. Besides feeding Canadians, this restaurant has a purpose.

The Pierogi Has Risen to Great Heights

If monuments speak to the popularity of a person, animal or food, then the pierogi has surely arrived in some places in the world.

This varenyky statue near the village of Synky, Cherkasy region, Ukraine. Image from Wikipedia.
Some places in Canada, not to be outdone, have erected monuments to their foods. In Alberta you can combine these statues to make an entire giant meal: The Vegreville Easter egg, Mundare sausage, and the Glendon pierogi. I’ve often wondered what future Canadians might make of all these giant statues standing in the Canadian countryside.
Pierogi on a Rope soap, anyone? Only in Pennsylvania, where pierogies are popular. Wonder what the favorite scents would be? Onion? Maybe a little bacon and cheddar…
And, you can’t have too many pierogi ornaments hanging around.

Some Final Thoughts

In all seriousness, the pierogi has had a long and storied history among many peoples in the world. Although its origins in eastern Europe are somewhat obscure, I see a connection to far eastern dumplings made in China, Korea, Japan, southeast Asia and India. It’s not too far of a stretch to imagine these dumpling spreading from Asia into Russia and eastern Europe. And then slowly changing in composition. However, sometimes, like other innovations in history, the pierogi could have developed independently in eastern Europe.

In Canada, there is an incredible variety of pierogi fillings and toppings to choose from. Some, very traditional. Others, more exploratory, looking for that balance between traditional and Canadian experience. And then there are those pierogies that are right off the charts.

No matter what your tastes, I’m sure you will find a pierogi filling or topping out there that suits your palate.

Note: Next Blog

Now that I’ve got everyone hungry and in the food mood, I’m going to go turn the clock back a few hundred years and see what people were eating in Canada. In particular western Canada. And, how did this diet affect the their health and welfare?