We’ll Build Us A ‘Yole’

The Scottish yole is a wooden boat, built in a variety of sizes in the Orkney Islands (and elsewhere) for fishing. It could be rowed or sailed. The boats are probably of Nordic origins.

The Hudson’s Bay Company recruited Orkneymen to work at their Canadian-based forts. They brought with them their boat building knowledge and soon built a boat that was adapted to work on Hudson Bay and then the inland waters of the Canadian West. It is commonly referred to as the York Boat, named after the Company’s York Factory on Hudson Bay. A craft similar to the yole but better suited for Canada’s lakes and rivers.

Hayes River, Near York Factory, Early Summer, 1796

“Faster men! Faster! Bail faster. No, paddle faster.” The helmsman of one of the Saskatchewan brigade canoes kept screaming, then pleading, for his charges to paddle and bail with all their might. Their now rickety birch bark canoe, full of holes from the wear and tear of over a thousand miles of river travel, was about to sink. And they along with it.

Peter Fidler, just named chief mapmaker and surveyor for the Hudson’s Bay Company, sat in one of the other canoes looking on. Mildly annoyed. About as annoyed as anyone could get when there was really nothing more to do but bail. But there was plenty of time to sit and think as well. These boats are leaking like sieves. And barely a tree in sight to repair them properly before we go back.

He wasn’t a man who complained much. He had already proven he was capable of putting up with tremendous hardships. Anything the Company threw at their new rising star, Fidler could handle. But he was frustrated on how to deal with this predicament. The Company’s inland transportation system was a mess. This sinking flotilla that carried their goods and furs for thousands of miles on the inland waters was a constant problem and headache.

Who do I blame more. This intractable Company or this hostile land? Peter often was torn on this matter.

And then there were the Canadians. An even bigger problem. Not only are we sinking half the time, those scoundrels help us to the bottom. Constantly harassing me and my men. Telling us we have no business in ‘their’ country. Fidler knew the Company was often the laughing stock of the west, barely able to keep their boats afloat let alone handle them.

It was always like this for the Hudson’s Bay Company canoe brigades. Now that they had to chase the furs inland instead of letting the Indians come to them at the Bay. By the time they reached Hudson Bay, their canoes were in tatters and they were hanging on to their very lives. They were at a great disadvantage to the Canadian-run North West Company, whose French Canadian voyageurs lived on the water for a good part of the year. The men knew how to build and handle the large birch bark freight canoes.

Damn those Canadian water dogs, thought Fidler. They outmaneuver us at every turn and take advantage of their superior skills with the canoes. Unlike our Orkneymen, while stout enough, but know nothing about these flimsy craft and how to best keep them afloat. He watched and bailed as the shore came steadily closer.

Fidler’s brigade finally made it to York Factory without sinking. But the men were unhappy. And Fidler heard the grumbling.

“God-dammit Peter, these craft leak like sieves if you just touch them. And they’re about as steady as a round log. Even the French Canadians complain. I overheard one old voyageur joking that when you sat in a loaded freight canoe you had to keep your tongue in the middle of your mouth or you would capsize the damn thing. This situation is ridiculous. And now, how are we going to fix these wrecks? There’s not a bloody birch tree within five-hundred miles of this place.”

Fidler could only nod in agreement. He tried to put James at ease. The complaining would only erode more the moral of his men. “We brought some bark rind with us James, so we can do the patchwork and get ready to go back. Settle down man. Unload the canoes and then go get drunk or something.”

Richard, another young, capable Orkneyman was already heading up the bank. He yelled back at the others. “I’m done lads. My contract’s up and I’m not signing on again. I’m heading home. I’ve had enough of these stupid boats. They’re about as sturdy as a hayseed in a wind storm.” Then he looked at Fidler.

“And, Sir, if the situation doesn’t improve, you won’t have any men left to work the canoes. And you’ll not get any new recruits out of the Orkney’s once word gets out. Christ, I’d rather sign on with his Royal Majesty’s press gangs and serve on a ship of the line, than put up with this shit.”

Again Peter Fidler said little. Because there was little to say. They were right. Now watching his men walk away he was becoming angry. It was time to talk with the Governor about the state of the Company’s inland operations, and the welfare of its employees.

He carefully unpacked his precious maps and instruments and started up the bank toward the fort. Thank God these didn’t get wet or lost. That would have been a real calamity. Peter Fidler’s first priority were his maps and logs. But, solutions to the Company’s transportation needs, and dealing with those Canadian pests, were taking up more and more of his time and energy.

…………………….

The Governor’s Residence, York Factory

Peter Fidler’s map of the Swan River and Upper Assiniboine Region. Fidler was a meticulous map maker. His works are considered equal to those of David Thompson. Giving him the title of Canada’s ‘forgotten’ mapmaker.

That evening Peter Fidler dined with the Governor and a few other company officers. After months of river travel through the wilds, the meal and companionship was welcome enough. But Fidler seemed slightly out of sorts, although he tried to keep up his side of the table-talk and news.

Samuel Wegg sensed something was wrong. Trained as a lawyer at Cambridge, a Fellow of the Royal Society, and eventually becoming Governor in 1782, Wegg missed little. Including Fidler’s seeming preoccupation with other things. Time to press a little bit to see what’s wrong with my favorite inland trader. He’s not normally this sour looking. Wegg waited patiently for his opportunity.

Wegg watched on as the tobacco pipes and brandy came out after the meal. Soon a cloud of aromatic tobacco smoke hung in the room. Wegg hoped maybe the young Fidler would relax and open up a bit. The setting was casual enough. By now Peter was well known, liked and respected, among the officers. His recent sojourns into the Canadian west and his excellent maps had gained him the admiration of not only the officers, but also the Company’s London committee.

Finally Wegg saw his chance. “Well, Peter, quite the haul of furs you brought back with you. Despite the fierce competition from the Canadians. You should be happy and proud of your accomplishments these last few years. A lucrative trade, adventure and map-making of a very high standard. Your maps are as good or even better than that traitorous scoundrel Thompson’s. Even Aaron Arrowsmith in London is impressed. He wants to publish your latest works. And newly married. What else could a man want?” The bait was out, but would Peter take it?

Fidler looked around at the men, then at the Governor, wondering. Should I risk it? Should I say something or just shut up? A few years back his choice would have been easy. ‘Be quiet.’ It was the Company’s problem not his. But now he realized he was fast becoming an important part of the Company and something had to be done soon or they would all be driven out of the west by the Canadians.

Suddenly he realized all eyes were looking his way. He poured himself another brandy and began. The other officers were silent, as if his words were important. Hoping he would say what some of them operating inland were also thinking.

“Well, Sir, if you must know it’s our transportation system out west. These birch bark freight canoes work well enough for the Canadians. They have many men with enough knowledge and materials to keep them afloat. We don’t, and it puts us at a great disadvantage in the trade.”

“You got back safe and sound Peter. What are you complaining about?” Wegg, pretending everything was well, had known for some time everything was not.

“Yes, with my feet in water at the bottom of our canoes. Ready to tip over any minute. Which are now battered and in need of repair. But, with nothing to repair them with. And Sir, our Orkneymen hate them. Absolutely detest them. If the Company continues to use them, I’m afraid we’ll lose our men and struggle even more out west. There are already shortages in manpower with the wars, and it’s becoming harder and harder to recruit good men from the Islands.”

George Sutherland, in charge of Edmonton House, who accompanied Fidler, finally spoke. Strangely William Tomison, in charge of Buckingham House, was missing at the table. “Sir, until we were forced to move inland what was the number one advantage we had in the trade over the Canadians?”

Wegg decided to play along. “Transportation and cost, of course. Even after moving inland, the cost of moving our supplies west and furs back are not nearly as high as that of the Canadians. If only our equipment was in better shape, so we don’t lose half of what we haul.”

“Then, Sir, what if we could reduce those costs even further by improving our system of supplying the western posts? And getting our furs safely to York Factory. That would really put a scare into those Canadians out west.” Sutherland looked at Fidler, waiting for him to take up the argument and continue.

Finally Peter spoke. “Governor, the Company has used the bateaus and York boats around the Bay for years. They are seaworthy, can go up the rivers a certain distance, and can haul tremendous amounts of goods. Why not try them out west?”

Smith, one of the officers stationed at York Factory, was already shaking his head. “You can’t be serious Peter? Those boats aren’t fit for the inland rivers and lakes. You might get out in the spring but you’d never make it back in the late summer and fall when the rivers drop and become very shallow. And the portages? How do you propose we haul a boat that weighs a ton or more across them?”

Fidler went on, as if he had already thought carefully about most of these obstacles. “We re-adapt the Bay boats. We built a boat to fit the country and its waters. Make the bottom flatter, so that its draft is extremely shallow and more suitable for the inland rivers. And we use a log roller and pulley system to move them over the portages. Each boat will need at least eight or nine men who can pull them. That’s a lot of manpower. Or, we build boats on either side of the major portages.”

Smith only snorted. “The Canadians would pillage and burn those boats in a heartbeat. They use some of the same inland routes we do. Or, we would have to leave men to guard them. That might not even work.”

“It might not. But what we’re doing right now, in fact, does not work. We need to change, soon. Or there won’t be any competition left for the Canadians.”

At theses last words the others were looking down, staring into their brandy glasses for inspiration. As if the answers to their problems lay somewhere down there. None seemed to appear.

Fidler pressed on. “Our only hope is to improve our means of transportation and hold on. Keep on competing with those renegade Canadians at every turn. We won’t always win, but every battle takes its toll. Eventually someone will break. If we survive, then we can tailor our transportation to suit our needs.”

“Meanwhile, I suggest we add a few more skilled craftsmen to some key forts. But keep in mind by using a York boat, which could haul at least three times as much as a freight canoe, we wouldn’t need as many canoes, nor men to paddle them.”

The room fell silent. Everyone, including the Governor, was weighing the matter carefully. It had its merits. But also its warts.

“You wintered at Buckingham House with William Tomison, Fidler. Did you put any of this to him?”

Fidler now had a somewhat dour look on his face. As if he was mulling something very distasteful over. Tomison’s not here. Why not? Well, might as well get it out there too. No sense stopping now, he thought.

“With all due respect, Sir. Mr. Tomison is a good enough trader. There isn’t a principle Native man in the country that he doesn’t know and who seem to like and respect him enough. All very important considerations in the trade. They like us better than those Canadians in most cases.”

“What’s wrong then Fidler. The look on your face doesn’t match your words very well.”

Fidler went on. “Sir, Mr. Tomison isn’t a very imaginative or creative man in these matters. He sticks to what he knows even if it might undo him. I have argued with him occasionally on this point and he refuses to budge. He has two fine young Orkney carpenters at the fort and that blacksmith Gilbert Laughton can fix or make anything. We have all the tools and expertise, except willpower, to make a few prototypes and try them out on the river. What have we got to lose?”

At those words the Governor scowled. He didn’t like his men backstabbing their fellow employees. But Fidler’s words made sense. And Tomison, while he was a steady enough man in the trade, was becoming more and more set in his ways. After thirty-five years with the Company, who wouldn’t. Refusing to see what needed changing before it was too late.

Then Wegg smiled, as if only now remembering something. And the atmosphere in the room lifted considerably. “Well, Fidler, it just so happens Mr. Tomison is coming out and going to England on leave. Why don’t you take over at Buckingham House for the winter and see what can be done.”

Fidler, at first somewhat shocked at these words, sensed that the Governor was already ahead of him in this matter. Why had he sent two very skilled carpenters west to Buckingham House? Certainly not to build cathedrals. And why Orkneymen? Those islands produced some of the best boat-builders in the British Isles. Men who built the sturdy yoles, crafted after the Norse longboats from centuries past. Suddenly Fidler had a new respect for Wegg.

He looked quickly over at Sutherland, who was looking into the blazing fire, grinning, with a very satisfied look on his face. Either he’s drunk or has already talked to the Governor about this matter. And I wonder what tidbits he’s put in the Governor’s ear? George Sutherland, even though quiet, was a crafty man. A thinking man. An Orkneyman who knew something about boats. Also, someone who knew the trade out west was falling to pieces unless they did something about it.

“Sir, I don’t particularly like going behind my superior’s back in these matters. It only causes even more disharmony among the men. And, we already have enough of that.” Fidler now had a worried look on his face, realizing what Tomison might later accuse him of if any this got out.

“Don’t worry about Mr. Tomison, Fidler. By the time I’m finished with him, he’ll see the brilliance of our plan. Especially if you succeed. Besides, he’ll be nice and mellow, and most agreeable after his stay in England. Just carry on and do what’s needed. Do what you think is in the best interest of the Company. This business of transportation is a very serious matter, Gentlemen. So serious, if not fixed, soon, could break our backs in the west.”

Fall, 1796, the North Saskatchewan River

Just before the Hudson’s Company canoe brigade reached Buckingham House, they dawned their finest clothing, fired their muskets into the skies, and started singing as they paddled their canoes toward the fort. It was the custom of the land. They hoped their comrades at the fort heard the shots and would give them a hearty salute in return to welcome them home.

However, they were in for a surprise. There, a short distance downstream from their fort, were their rivals, the jeering Canadians, also ready to welcome them back. Shooting their muskets in the air and occasionally closely over their heads. A little too closely for comfort.

“Hey Fidler, what took you so long. You travel only half the distance we do and you arrive later than us.” There was John McDonald of Garth again, a brash Canadian Scot, waving his musket in one hand and his bottle of brandy in the other.

“Oh, Christ, Peter. Can’t we go out a distance so we don’t have to listen to their insults?” Young Isbister wanted nothing to do with the rowdy Canadians.

“Can’t John. We might sink. Our canoes are almost shredded from the journey. We need to make shore and fast.”

Just as they were about to pass the Canadians, someone on shore threw a clod of mud catching one of Fidler’s men square in the head, nearly knocking him senseless. A few of the men started to draw muskets, but Fidler yelled at them.

“Put your weapons away. No violence. It does little good here. Paddle faster. Let’s get past them and then we’ll be home.” Just as he finished a few of the Canadians threw out a large log which sliced through the water like a spear, squarely hitting one of the canoes in the side, and tearing a large hole in it. Now the men were frantically bailing, faster than even before.

MacDonald was at it again, shouting and jeering at the now sinking boat. “Well, Pro Pelle Cutem (for the pelt, the skin) my boys, or whatever it is your stupid Company motto means. I guess you’ll pay with your hides now, you cursed bastards. You should leave this country. Forever. You don’t belong here.”

MacDonald took another swig of brandy. Now refueled he hollered more insults across the water. “Arrogant English turds. You have a fancy slogan in Latin? Will your Latin help you now?”

One of Fidler’s men had enough. He suddenly drew his musket and fired at McDonald, barely missing the man and smashing his brandy bottle in the process. Instead of being frightened for his life, McDonald, now fuming bellowed out. “You broke my bottle and the brandy’s all gone, you Orkney twit.” He began to draw his musket, but having trouble now both standing and trying to find it. Before managing more mischief, he was quickly grabbed by his men and dragged up the bank to the North West Company fort, still swearing and cursing.

As the Hudson’s Bay Company canoes finally reached home, they had a much more cordial welcome from their people. The muskets were fired into the air to salute the brigade’s return. Finally, home. But, barely. The leaves were turning and the nights were already frosty. Soon the Saskatchewan would freeze up for another season. And it would get incredibly cold.

Buckingham House, Peter Fidler’s Quarters

April 8, Friday, [1796]. Wind and weather as yesterday. Four men finished the bateau. Tailor making clothing for the men, one man ailing, and the rest pointing stockades and fitting them to the ribbon. At noon one tent of Indians brought thirty beaver and three rolls of birchrind not very good. Also in the evening William Tate and Robert Garrock returned, brought eight rolls of birchrind very bad. (Journal of George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/1, 1795-96; brackets mine)

Fidler was in his winter quarters. Standing in front of the fire, trying to warm up after their journey. He turned toward his man. “Well, Samuel. How was the summer? I hope you followed my instructions and got what we needed.”

Samuel, standing in front of Fidler, was wringing and twisting his hat, as if trying to squeeze something out of it.

“Sir, we tried. First we wanted to trade birch rind with the Natives coming to the fort. They gave us little and only of poor quality. Wouldn’t part with any of the good rind. When we asked why, they merely grinned and said our competition gives twice the amount we do for a good role of birch rind.”

Fidler frowned. His first few days back in charge and nothing but bad news everywhere. And those rotten Canadians were constantly meddling in their business. He sighed. If this continued, it would be a long, long winter. No wonder Tomison sometimes acted like an eighty-year old. This business could wear you out.

“At least then we have the rolls that we stock-piled this spring. We desperately need to repair our canoes or we might not make it out next spring. Good thing Tomison managed to lay in that bark for our canoes.”

“Oh, that’s gone too, Sir. Some scoundrel set fire to it. It’s all burned up. Nothing left but a few charred pieces. We’ll try trading for more, but it will cost us triple to get anything good.”

Fidler’s frown deepened. He guessed who the ‘scoundrels’ were that Samuel was referring to. “Just what the hell are we going to do, Samuel? We need that rind or find another way of moving our goods.” Then he remembered his meeting with the Governor. Instead of whining, it was time to act.

“Samuel, go fetch the two Orkney carpenters and Gilbert Laughton. We need to make a plan, now, fast before it’s too late.”

Samuel nodded and was about to run out to fetch the men. “But before you go, Samuel, be a good lad and bring me that bottle of brandy from the cellar. I’m going to need it before this is all over.”

A rare find. This liquor bottle found in the cellar beneath the officers’ quarters at the Hudson’s Bay Company Buckingham House. The same quarters that Peter Fidler wintered in 1796-97. It may have contained brandy. Or perhaps some other type of liquor.

During the early fur trade, most liquor was sent out west in wooden kegs. Glass goods were a rarity and probably smuggled in. A complete, intact bottle, cork and all, is even a more rare find. (Photograph, courtesy of the Royal Alberta Museum)

……………………

Buckingham House, December 20th, 1796.

Dear Sir [George Sutherland], Your men arrived here all safe the 18th instant, and have sent as much trading goods as loaded the six horses (which was all they brought down) as per list enclosed. The awls, steels, worms etc. shall be made as soon as the cold weather is over, which of late has been so intense (sixty below the cypher) that the smith could not get anything made of small articles; hitherto he has been employed in repairing falling hatchets (as there was not any fit for use here) and making nails for the bateaux.

Shall pay every attention in getting the boats as fast forward as possible – one is nearly finished and the carpenters will go to the woods after Christmas to saw stuff for the other one….

Wishing you health and a happy new year I remain dear Sir, your obedient humble servant Peter Fidler. (Letter from Peter Fidler, Buckingham House, to George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/2; brackets mine)


“You want to do what, Peter? Build a yole? This isn’t the bloody North Sea, you know. That trickle of water down there won’t hold a boat that size. You’ll be scraping along the bottom of the drink all the time.” Fidler’s blacksmith, Gilbert Laughton, also an Orkneyman, was not entirely optimistic this new plan would work.

“Nicol, John, you’re both boat carpenters. What do you think? Can we do it? This blasted canoe business has to stop. And Tomison isn’t around to sink our plans.”

John Davey was also among the group. “Can I help, Sir. I want to learn as much as I can about the boats and how to build one. I think it will revolutionize how we transport our goods.”

Both Nicol Spence and John Moore looked at the young Davey. “What exactly do you know about boats, Davey? And water? I saw you nearly drown when ankle deep in the river.” The two men had a good laugh at the now red-faced Davey’s expense.

“I sailed a lot before I came to the Colonies. I watched the men at home build the boats, but I was still too young to learn properly. We could modify our boats a bit from what we used at sea. To better suit the river.”

“How so, John? Those boats worked well enough. What would you do different?” Peter, although knowing already what was needed, was intent on hearing everyone out, before making any decisions.

After thinking a bit, Davey answered, “The prow of the boat has to be pretty narrow to cut easily through the river currents. The beam should be wider than our yoles, for more stability and cargo space. Then I would design the hull with almost no deadrise, so the draft would be small, and she would sit right on top of the water. Even when empty, because of the width, she would still be pretty stable.”

Fidler looked at Davey with a new kind of interest. The lad seemed to know what he was talking about. “What about strength? We need something that won’t fall apart when we look at it, or step in it.”

“Sawed lap-planks, Sir. We’ll build a ‘clinker boat’ with planks about an inch thick, overlapping one another. We’ll steam them and bend and nail them around the frame. Then we’ll caulk or spruce gum the seams.” Davey, now beet-red from forgetting to breath while he talked, was getting excited about the project.

Two types of wood boat framing commonly used on wooden ship hulls. Clinker boat frames (left) resemble the Viking ships and were very strong, and also used to make yoles in the Orkney Islands.

“We can’t use iron nails, John. They’ll rot out in the water.” Spence was scratching his head wondering what to do about this problem. They could dowel the boards in to place, but they wouldn’t hold up well in the tough, harsh river conditions.

Gilbert Laughton, who had been quietly listening, spoke up after the last remark. “I’ll take care of the metal works for the boat, including the nails. I have something in mind.”

“Then it’s settled men. Work all winter on three prototypes. John can you draw? If so, draw up a plan for the carpenters on what you want.”

“I will, Sir. Can I watch and help build them too?”

“Yes, of course, John. You’re now the chief architect of the project. But here’s how I want them built. The first two boats must each have different siding and hull configurations, and the third one…” He talked quietly to his men laying out his instructions, as if someone might overhear them. When he finished they all stared at him, wondering if he had already been drinking to come up with such an idea.

“And not a word about any of this to anyone. Especially those Canadian buggers across the way.”

His men looked at him questionably about construction of the last boat. “Are sure that’s wise Peter? Doesn’t that kind of defeat the purpose?” Then Fidler filled in his men why he wanted the last boat built that way. “It’s time to fight back men. And, this is as good an opportunity as any to do it.”

When he finished the men left happy enough, but still scratching their heads over his last request. Wondering what happened to that usually non-violent nature of his.

Hand-forged brass or copper alloy nails found at the Hudson’s Bay Company Fort Edmonton (c.1830 – 1915). More rust-resistant and likely used for construction of York boats which became a primary industry at this fort.

Buckingham House, Early Spring, 1797

1797, Edmonton House, April 24th.
Dear Sir [Peter Fidler], The backwardness of the spring will very much retard the building of canoes and consequently will occasion a late embarkation….The river ice has given way opposite the house, but remains fast both above and below yet the water falloff fast. Send up all the men with the craft except the canoe builders. I will dispatch twenty men in the four canoes here as soon as the river ice gives way with what furs and provisions they can take. If the boats are finished Nichol Spence, boatbuilder, may come up the first trip as he is to summer here, he being unfit for the passage, and John Moor goes down with the boats in case of accidents; let him keep what tools he thinks will be necessary for the passage. Send up all the plank cut for boats by the boats as that article will be difficult to get at this place. The canoes can take all the trading goods and stores. If you have any spare line for tying bundles I beg you to send it as we are short of that article here.Wishing you better success I am yours etc. G.S. (Parts of a letter to Peter Fidler, Buckingham House, from George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/2, 1796-97; brackets mine)

Peter Fidler stood in the boat yard at the back of the fort. It was well concealed from prying Canadian eyes by a six-foot high partition fence. Over their heads was a wide, long roof attached to high poles, open on the sides, under which the men could work without getting snowed on and sheltered from the wind. Beside him in pits dug in the ground, the shape of a large canoe, sat their freight canoes also under repair. The pits kept the shape of the boats and the birch rind moist, preventing it from cracking.

“They look marvelous men. But will they do the job?” Fidler ran his eyes down the long, sleek wooden boats. Two boats were finished and the third one nearly finished.

John Davey looked up, a big grin on his face. As if this was the best work he had ever done.

“They’re great, Sir. It was challenging work. But so much fun. I feel now I could build one by myself.”

“Tell me a little more about them, John. What’s the main difference in them, from the ones on the Bay?”

“Well Sir, this one here is the biggest. But nowhere’s as big as some of the Bay boats. It measures forty feet from end to end, is slightly less than four feet deep and eight feet across at the beam. It’s clinker-built and the bottom is nearly flat. Both ends are nicely raked so it should be easy to get off the rocks and sand bars. I figure this one could float over three tons of cargo.” Davey beamed, stroking his boat, as he spoke.

“This one here looks almost the same, John?”

“This differs mostly in size. It’s only thirty feet long, three feet deep, and about six-and-one-half feet at the beam. And the planking on the sides are the carvel type. It makes a very smooth hull, giving it less resistance in a strong current. However, while this boat is strong enough, it’s not nearly as strong as the other. It carries less cargo but works better in shallow rivers.”

Spence looked up from his work. “The keels were difficult to make, Sir. We carved them out of tamarack, the hardest, most rot-resistant wood there is in this country. Here, Sir, put your ear on the end of the keel. And give me your watch.”

Fidler did so and then Spence put the pocket watch on the other end of the keel. A surprised Fidler answered. “I can hear the ticking of my watch, Spence, from way down here. It resonates through the wood.”

“But, not through any wood, Sir. Only the soundest, strongest wood will do that. The keel has to put up with tremendous punishment. If it isn’t sound, the boat won’t last.”

Then Fidler turned to the last boat still under construction. “And, I presume this one’s for our Canadian friends. Looks even smaller and not as well built.”

Davey nodded in agreement. “It will do what you requested within an hour of being put in the water. It’s all about the planking and the bottom of the boat.”

“Well done men. Finish the last one before the ice breaks up and starts moving and then we’ll put our plan into action.” They all smiled at what was about to happen.

“But, Peter. We need to name them. That’s the proper thing to do. Do you have any suggestions?” Spence waited expectantly as Fidler mulled over some names for the boats.

“OK. I think I have it. This first big one here, we’ll name Explorer. The second smaller one Chance.”

The men waited for the last name. Fidler was thinking, then suddenly smiled. “This men will be the new motto for the Canadians.” Then he whispered the name of the boat to his men. They all laughed at the name, shaking their heads. A perfect name for their last boat.

………………………

This reconstructed York boat sits on display at Fort Edmonton Park, Edmonton, Alberta. The fort was a major boat builder for the Saskatchewan brigades for many years.

Samuel barged into Fidler’s quarters, all out of breath. “The ice is moving, Sir. If the weather holds, in two or three days we can launch.”

“Good Samuel. Tell the men to prepare to move the boats down the creek ravine to the river. It’s all downhill and with the snow they will slide easy enough. Make sure the boats are well tied so they don’t get away on you. Remember, that’s about a ton of boat there and when it starts moving downhill, it will be hard to stop.”

“Yes, Sir. We’ll prepare everything for departure. The men are ready. They know what to do and how to handle these boats. They were brought up with them. Some were probably born in them.”

Fidler simply nodded as Samuel left. Beside him sat his blacksmith, and also occasionally gunsmith, Gilbert Laughton. An indispensable man at these frontier forts. Who was admiring one of his fancy twisted ornate hand-forged nails, fresh out of the forge. The two men were drinking, talking about the trade and the welfare of the Company. And their plans to get their furs to York Factory.

“Do you think they’ll take the bait, Peter? They might get suspicious about our motives and tactics.” He looked over at Fidler, waiting for a reply.

“Oh, they’ll take the bait alright. They’re down by the river right now getting ready to embark as soon as the ice leaves. After all that bullshit they’ve been fed about a special bonus for the first furs to Europe from the Colonies this year, they’ll bite. They’re a greedy bunch of heartless bastards, when it comes right down to it. Thought of only wealth dulls one’s wits, my friend.”

Laughton looked at Fidler. A crafty man. But hardly a violent man. Or, was he? Whatever had drawn him to come up with something like this? And, if his plan ever worked, would the Canadians forgive him? Probably not. They would hound him in the trade for the rest of his days. “Well, it’s not my problem Peter, but you sure know how to make enemies.”

“It can’t get any worse than this, Laughton. Can it?

………………….

Angus Shaw, chief trader in charge of the North West Company’s Fort George, stood down by the river overseeing preparations for departure for Montreal. As soon as that damn ice clears out, we’ll be off. If we’re to beat the HBC, he thought. Then he heard a peculiar noise. Coming from up above. A high pitched screeching sound, as if someone was raking their nails over glass. Then the yelling and hollering. Laughing, cursing and everything in between.

He looked over towards the creek above them and there before his very eyes, out from the ravine shot a large wooden boat, skidding smoothly on the snow and ice towards the water. He couldn’t believe what he was seeing.

John McDonald, standing beside him, turned and looked the same direction. Then he saw it too. A fully laden boat with enormous oars sliding swiftly towards the river. “What in the hell is that…?”

But before he could finish his sentence, another one appeared behind it. And then another. The Canadians stood transfixed on the banks of the river as the HBC men made preparations to launch the boats into the river.

“Angus, they can’t go out into that bloody current and ice. It’ll tear them apart. It’s too dangerous. They’ll all die.”

Shaw was now fully beginning to realize what was happening and the implications it had on the trade. “You mean John, we can’t go out there with those flimsy birch bark freight canoes. That ice would crush them like an eggshell. There would be nothing left within minutes.”

“Angus, do you know what this means? They’ll get to York Factory faster and back to Europe to collect that bonus. We’ll lose, if we don’t stop them.”

“And how do you propose to do that, John? Look, they’ve already launched one boat and the second one is ready to go. It’s too late to stop them.”

Then McDonald saw it. The third boat was empty and simply stowed near the edge of the river, but not launched. A few men were looking after it. Shaw saw it too and both men looked knowingly at one another. “Tonight John, we’ll take that one and follow them. And then plan some mischief to stop them before they get too far ahead of us.”

Both men scurried toward their voyageurs and told them their plan. Meanwhile the other voyageurs were watching in awe as the large York boats went bobbing down the river, loaded with furs and crew. Soon they disappeared from sight.

That night John McDonald of Garth took nine of his most ruthless voyageurs down to the water. They threatened the HBC men guarding the last boat, who seemed to run away without much resistance.

“Cowards. Those Orkneymen have no backbone whatsoever. Right, Pierre. Now get this hulk into the water and chase them down. Destroy their boats, if you can. Quickly before they get too far ahead of you.”

“But, Sir. The men are a little leery about whether these things can float. They much prefer the canoes. And Sir, what’s the name of this boat written on the bow? I can’t seem to read it.”

McDonald stared at the writing. He couldn’t read it either. “Just another stupid Latin motto of theirs. Who cares.” McDonald was getting upset with the delay.

“Now get in the goddamned boat and follow them, or I’ll dock you a year’s pay, Pierre. A bonus for you and your men, if you catch them. Load this boat with furs. We might as well use this opportunity to move some of them downriver. We’ll follow you in our canoes as soon as the ice stops running. Good luck.”

Pierre reluctantly obeyed McDonald. Within an hour the York boat was loaded and they pushed off in pursuit of the HBC brigade. McDonald’s last words, however, kept ringing in his ears as the fort disappeared from site. “Good luck.” He sincerely hoped it wouldn’t come to that.

June 18, 1797, Sunday. Arrived at the Great Rapid, where we took out all the furs, and shot down the rapid without injuring the boats or canoes. Indeed the boats seems to exceed even my utmost expectations on the falls as they did not ship any water, although the waves ran very high. (The journal of George Sutherland, Grand Rapids; HBCA B.60/a/2)

York Fort, Early Summer, 1797

This York boat still floating at Norway House in the early 1930s. Most craft had eight rowers and one steersman. The largest of these craft were capable of carrying six tons. (Image from Mary Bruce (1929-32), Norway House).

I cannot help expressing my satisfaction at the probable advantages the honourable Company are likely to reap from the use of boats in this quarter. The easy draught of water, the facility with which we have brought them from Edmonton House to this place – a distance of 1200 miles  – the cargoes they are likely to carry up to from whence they came etc. (Journal of George Sutherland, Gordon House; HBCA B.60/a/2)

Going down rapids with the boats was easy. The hard part was hauling a heavy York boat through shallow waters back up the rivers; as in this photograph somewhere between Norway House and York Factory. Despite their shallow draft, by the end of the summer, some places on the rivers were very shallow and it took a lot of work to move the large boats along. (HBCA Collections).

Samuel Wegg stood on the shore and watched the spectacle unfold before him on the Hayes River. Two fully loaded wooden boats, now under sail were gliding toward him. They were beautiful and reminded him of the larger Viking craft he had read about and saw in illustrations. Even though they were fully loaded they sat high in the water. Now sitting behind their oars were eight men resting while the boat was under sail. Each man sat on the opposite side of the boat from where the long oars dipped into the water. Behind them came more lightly loaded canoes. The Saskatchewan brigade had finally arrived. Peter Fidler had returned.

York boat under sail.

Once Fidler landed, Wegg approached him. “You did very well, Peter. And, you’re early. Very impressive. Those are beautiful craft. Much better designed for the rivers than our Bay vessels. You must have very gifted boat builders to make those.”

“Thank you, Sir. They work well enough. There are still some things that need to be improved upon but in time we will have the right craft for the right conditions.”

“But these boats are heavy. How did you manage at the portages?”

“Coming down the rapids was easy. When we go back up the rapids, we put them on log rollers. And then with ropes and pulleys we haul them over the portage trails. Hard work, but we have enough men. So, there’s no need to unload everything. Not really any more work than with the freight canoes when you think about it.”

“And I see you can sail them when the wind is right?”

“That’s probably one of really big advantages, Sir. Not only can we sail them, but we can cross the larger lakes under rougher conditions than with the freight canoes. They have such a wide beam, they are very stable, even when fully loaded. We can carry three tons of goods on that big one, Sir. And these Orkney ‘river rats‘ are well suited to man them.”

Wegg only nodded, now seemingly in deep thought. Then he produced a paper from his jacket. “That’s all good, Peter. I think these craft are exactly what we need inland to move our goods and reduce our costs.”

Fidler looked at the paper in Wegg’s hands. It was a letter. “Sir, is something wrong? You look a little perplexed.”

“Here read this letter, Peter. It just came recently from one of the inland NWC masters by special courier canoe. You know, those really fast ones. It seems there was some trouble out west, near your fort.”

Fidler took the letter and began to read. After he finished he simply smiled.

“Care to explain Peter. There are some very pissed off people in Montreal. It seems they lost a third of their furs in one of the craft they claim you built for them. Similar to these two. Four men still missing, and the other five managed to get back to the fort, barely. All furs on board lost.”

“Well, yes, Sir. We built a third prototype York boat and left it by the river. Intending on using it later. But it really wasn’t for the Canadians. Unless they chose to steal it of course. They must have capsized or were crushed by the ice. These things happen occasionally, Sir.”

“Well that’s not what the survivors claim, Peter. They said suddenly after about an hour the boat sprang leaks everywhere and began to fall apart. Then it sank before anyone could get it safely to shore.” Wegg looked at Fidler, waiting for a reply.

“Sir, I guess we forgot to tell the Canadians the name of the third prototype. It was written right on the sides of the bow. Maybe they might not have taken it. But those Canadians can’t read it seems. That big boat you see, we named Explorer, and the second, Chance.”

“And what was the name of this last boat the Canadians manned?”

“Oh, well, Sir. That one we named the Collabefio. We gave it a Latin name after the Canadians made fun of the Company’s Latin motto.”

Wegg thought for a moment, then burst into laughter. “And it bloody worked well, didn’t it Peter. ‘Sink Together’, I believe, in Latin. Sank like a stone. And, you got back at those Canadians constantly tormenting you. You truly have great boat builders.”

“The best, Sir. And I might add that we need more, if we are going to make inroads on our competition.”

Wegg nodded in full agreement. “Hopefully not to build more ‘sinkers’, Peter?” He chuckled as he again viewed the sleek boats in front of him, sliding his hand over the prow of Explorer. These craft could change their fortunes.

“Come Peter, let the men unload the craft and tell me more about these boats and the trade over some brandy. Before Nancy gets her hooks into you. I hope to hell this deed with the Canadians doesn’t follow you around for the rest of your days. You’ve made some powerful enemies my friend. But, also some powerful friends.”

With that Wegg clapped Fidler on the back and the two men strolled toward the Governor’s quarters, talking about the quality of this year’s furs.

……………………….

Image of a York boat at Fort Garry, Manitoba, Canada, showing the rather massive size of some of these craft.

End Notes

Many of my stories are about things. Objects. Material culture. This story’s primary focus is the object, this time the HBC’s York boat. The object drives the story, and not solely the individual, Peter Fidler. It’s not like: “This is Peter Fidler and here’s what he did. By the way, this is the York boat he helped build.” The object is not just some sidebar to the narrative. It is a very important part of the narrative.

We all think we control material culture. We invent things for our use. And, to a point we do. But, would we truly be living and acting the way we do if the automobile had not been invented? Or the airplane? Or, the smart phone? Once the genie is let out of the bottle, it begins to control our lives. Sometimes in ways we had not expected.

My story about the York boat is no different. Introduction of this craft, at a time when the HBC was struggling to compete with their rivals the Canadian-based North West Company, may have been one of those ‘game changers’ in the western Canadian fur trade. It affected the Company’s operations in many ways.

Archaeologists did find canoe-shaped pits at Buckingham House, either to build and/or store canoes in them. Gilbert Laughton did make some very ornate looking hand-forged nails at Buckingham House. Some with twisted shanks. Perhaps deliberately so they wouldn’t loosen in the wood when driven home. Perhaps the man was just bored.

The debate is still out where the first York boats were built on the Saskatchewan. Some believe at Edmonton House, in 1795-96. Others believe at Buckingham House in 1796-97. Bateaus (a flat-bottomed boat with raked bow and stern and flaring sides) did exist at Edmonton House in 1796. But were they the same as the boats built by Fidler’s men at Buckingham House? Which eventually became the York boats used on the Saskatchewan River and elsewhere?

Peter Fidler’s struggles and quarrels with the NWC are not imagined. We don’t need to conjure up too much violence and harassment when writing about the competition between the Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company. It was real enough and happened in epic in proportions. The men of the two Companies often behaved like bad, immature children.

The idea for this story didn’t come from what Fidler did in the 1790s, which in itself was quite remarkable. Successful explorer, surveyor, mapmaker and trader. It was what bad fortunes befell him in the early nineteenth century before he finally retired in 1821 that started the idea for this story. It seemed, from reading his journals, he went from one calamity to another, mostly at the expense of the North West Company.

So, what did Fidler do that was so bad as to be harassed and hounded by the Canadians for the next fifteen years? Was he just in the wrong place at the wrong time, badly outnumbered by his Canadian foes? With often poor support from the Hudson’s Bay Company? Or, was there something else? For more details, here’s a link to Peter Fidler’s biography describing some of those encounters.

Whatever the case, the only real blow that Peter Fidler dealt the North West Company was helping introduce the York boat on the Saskatchewan River. He helped solve one of the many logistical nightmares the Company faced early on in the Canadian northwest.

It is therefore perhaps fitting to end this story with this massive wooden statue of Peter Fidler erected by the community of Elk Point. In memory of one of Canada’s ‘forgotten surveyors and map makers’.

Wooden statue in honor of Peter Fidler, Elk Point, Alberta, Canada, taking a reading with his sextant. With some of his known descendants standing in the foreground.

The Trader’s Private Stock: A Short Story

The Writing of History

In a former blog I talked about Historical Fiction as a possible genre to personalize historical facts. I continue in that vein with another short story. What happened at a remote late eighteenth century Canadian, Saskatchewan River fur trade post when the brandy supplies kept disappearing? The story is based on North West Company’s clerk Duncan M’Gillvray’s Fort George journals, John McDonald of Garth’s memoirs, and archaeological investigations at the fort site in the 1970s. Our main man, chief trader Angus Shaw, faces a problem. Pilfering. By his men. How does he deal with it? Read on and find out.

The Story

Fort George, Alberta, 1793

One of the fort Engages rushed into chief trader Angus Shaw’s rather spacious private quarters in the Big House, sitting on the high banks of the North Saskatchewan River. Before Shaw could ask what the man wanted, the words came tumbling out.

“They’re here Sir. And there must be a least two-hundred of them.”

“Who’s ‘they’ LaFrance? The King of England and his court? Quit talking in riddles man. Speak English.”

“Blackfoot, Sir. Wanting to talk and trade. They insist on a meeting and gifts first.”

“What the hell are they doing here this late in the fall?” Shaw stood up from his chair, walked around a bit, considering what to do.

“Well, they’re here. Can’t just turn them away. Break out the tobacco and brandy, LaFrance, and invite their principal men into Indian Hall. Keep the others out.” Shaw knew he had to accommodate them or lose the trade to his neighbors at Buckingham House.

“Buckingham House,” he snorted. “Where does the HBC come up with those damned names?” Then he considered his fort’s name, ‘Fort George’. ‘Not exactly fitting for the Canadian wilderness either,’ he thought. He waited for his men to finish preparations and LaFrance to return. He was still deep in thought when the door opened letting in the drafty cool fall air. And a little more.

“Close the door LaFrance. You’re letting in that awful stench. What is that anyway?”

LaFrance answered dutifully. “It’s from the butchering sir. We’re starting to fill the ice pits with meat for the winter, to make pemmican for the spring brigades.”

“Well, it smells God-awful. I’m glad winter will soon be here so that stench won’t be as bad. Are we ready for the meeting LaFrance? You look a little pale.”

LaFrance was standing there, trembling. “Sir the high wines are almost all gone, and what’s left tastes more like water than brandy.” LaFrance quickly looked at the door, as if getting ready for a rapid escape. He knew Shaw was going to blow his lid.

And LaFrance was right. Shaw lost it. Completely! He hurled his clay tobacco pipe at the mud wall, breaking it into little pieces. He kicked a chair, sending it flying LaFrance’s way. His Cree country wife, Marguerite, came running into the room to see what was wrong. She took one look at the scene, then quickly left.

“How in the hell can that be? The brigades just got back from Montreal two months ago and we’re already low on liquor? This is a disaster LaFrance. I’ll have to borrow more from our neighbors at an exorbitant price, of course. But not now, let’s give the Blackfoot what we have and hope it’s enough.”

After Shaw partially regained his composure, LaFrance tentatively ventured some more information. “Well Sir, about what happened. The lock on the storage cellar was tampered with again. It seems someone broke in and helped themselves to some drink.” LaFrance was stammering now, looking quite guilty, as if he might somehow have been involved.

“Some drink? The lock was tampered with? How so, LaFrance?”

“Well, smashed into little pieces, Sir.” Again the Engage looked quickly away, steadily backing toward the door. “I think Sir, we’re ready. The principal men are gathered in the Indian Hall and await you.” He turned and hurried out the door.

As Shaw walked toward the Indian room to meet the Blackfoot principal men, he thought about his not so little dilemma. He knew without alcohol, he would lose the trade to his competitors. ‘This is happening to often. Those god-damned French Canadians. They drink and party endlessly and could cost me a small fortune if this keeps up.’

Then in a more sober moment of thinking, he reluctantly admitted: ‘Well, even though they are some of the worst scoundrels around, they’re the best canoe men, carpenters, and labourers in the Canadian west. And, maybe it wasn’t them. Some of my officers aren’t exactly angles either. I’ll just have to build something to keep everyone out of the Company stores, and hide the liquor.’ He left and walked into the Indian Hall, cordially greeting the Blackfoot principal men.

…………………….

“Early this morning ten young Blackfoot came in for tobacco for a band who were to arrive later; sent, as usual, six inches to each principal man. They arrived at noon and pitched their tents, each party near the gates of their own trader. Gave them liquor as usual, one pint of Indian rum to each principal man, and they began to drink.” (from the journals of Alexander the Younger, Fort Vermilion (on the Saskatchewan near Fort George, November 12, 1809; Coues 1897:571)

They all sat and smoked, and prayed. Then one of the Blackfoot men took a sip of his brandy, blanched, and spit it all over the wood hall floor. He looked at Shaw in disgust, a deep scowl forming on his face. He spoke to Shaw’s translator, who turned a lighter shade of red.

“So, what did he say, Blanchet?” Shaw already knew but listened anyway.

Blanchet reluctantly told Shaw, while the principal men were fidgeting, as if preparing to leave. “He says this stuff tastes like horse piss, and not brandy. Next spring he’s taking all his furs to the Hudson’s Bay Company. They have good brandy there. And, he asks what that terrible smell is outside? Smells worse than a buffalo jump in the summer.”

“Tell him we had an accident with the brandy. It fell into the river on the journey up the Saskatchewan. Got a little watered down. Tell him I’ll compensate him with extra tobacco and more brandy next spring if he brings his furs to us. As to the stench. Tell him not to trade us bad meat anymore.” Blanchet translated, and the Blackfoot reluctantly sat down again, still grumbling among themselves and giving Shaw nasty stares.

Shaw stared back, thinking. ‘They will go next door anyway, to see if the HBC has a better offer, as soon as they are done here.’

The next day, the Blackfoot traded a few wolf skins and left. LaFrance came rushing up to Shaw. “Sir, the good news; they left. The bad news; with half our horses.” This time LaFrance was already out the door before the litany of curses came rushing out of Shaw’s mouth.

Shaw looked through the open door into the fort courtyard. ‘Jesus, can it get any worse than this? I’m stuck in this shithole with these drunkards for the rest of the winter. And now I have to deal with a bunch of very belligerent Natives next spring. Who keep stealing my horses, then trading them back. And this stinking meat. I’m going to get sick.’

As the events of the day went through his mind, Shaw noticed a large black plume of smoke across the river in the southwest. ‘Great! And to top it all off, they set the prairie on fire as a farewell.’ It was before noon. He was about to pour himself a stiff brandy anyway. He stopped short, realizing they didn’t have any left.

…………………..

“They [Hudson’s Bay Company] allowed us the free use of the well for some time, but at last, apprehensive of its drying up also….from the quantity taken from it by so many for all purposes, Mr. Tomison, a powerful man, refused to allow us further supplies….Mr. Tomison would not listen to any reason, indeed I had little to give him — but that if he would not give us our wants that either of us must pay a visit to the bottom of the well.” (from the memoirs of John McDonald of Garth, c.1795, Fort George, Alberta, in Morton 1929:lxii)

A few days later John McDonald of Garth was brought into Shaw’s quarters, barely standing. Kind of wobbling. “So, what the hell happened to you McDonald? Christ, you look like shit.”

McDonald, scarcely able to speak, finally got a few words out. “Well, Shhiir, I met with that scoundrel Tomison and his men at the well and I beat them up pretty badly.” Garth burped, then wobbled, having trouble keeping his feet.

Shaw looked on incredulously. They were already indebted to their neighbors for the liquor and now this man got into a fight with the HBC – about what? Water? There was a whole bloody river flowing before his eyes and John fought over the spring water supply closer by?

“Well, by the look of your face McDonald, you really put a scare into them.” Shaw remained stoic, reluctantly waiting for John to speak. He occasionally exaggerated when he told his stories. Especially when drunk.

“I did my best sir. Shhoowed them who is boss of the water, I did. They didn’t want to share the well, but I thought otherwise.”

“And, where exactly did you manage to get a hold of so much liquor, man?”

“Private stocks,” mumbled McDonald, before nearly tipping over.

Shaw just stared at his soon-to-fall-down officer in astonishment. ‘God, please help me. I’m surrounded by idiots.’ He eyed McDonald disparagingly, thinking: ‘Well maybe he’ll suit my purposes. He owes me after this little incident.’

…………………

Next spring, after all the engages and voyageurs left for Montreal, Shaw took McDonald aside and explained his plan for a new cellar for the liquor. John nodded, fully realizing that if he failed Shaw, he was done with the Company. So, he and a few trusted men worked for months to build it.

That fall, after examining the large, fresh mound of earth beside the big house, Shaw eyed McDonald. “I hope you got it right, John. If you so much as mutter a word how this here was built, you’ll be buried in it. And worse, no more brandy.” McDonald nodded solemnly. ‘What could be worse than no more brandy,’ he thought.

“One more thing John. If my stocks start disappearing, I’ll be coming after you.” McDonald visibly grew paler at those last words, but said nothing.

Soon after, the men arrived from Montreal, their canoes laden with supplies and trade goods. Including lots of brandy and rum. Joseph was grunting and cursing, shouting out to Francois behind him, two ninety-pound bales on his back. “So, we paddle for two-thousand miles to get this stuff here and then we have to haul it up to the highest bank on the river. Why not build down along the river?” Francois said nothing, only grunted in return, trying to balance his equally heavy load. He was too busy thinking about all the brandy they would drink this winter.

Once inside their fort, the men looked around. Something was different. They looked toward the Big House. Beside it, a new building, of sorts. Just a large low mound of earth.

Pierre leaned over to Louis. “Is that a new cellar? Look how close it is to the trader’s quarters. Hard to pilfer the brandy stores when it’s that close.” They put the brandy barrels near the newly built mound and looked at the mound again. Strange though, no door.

Shaw came out of his house. He looked at his somewhat confused men. “Leave the liquor here, take the rest of the provisions to the stores.” His men nodded, looking back somewhat forlornly at the brandy and rum kegs.

Once they finished, Shaw gathered them again. Now they had tired-looking puzzled faces. His men knew something was up. But what? “Gabriel, break out a barrel for the men. Let’s celebrate after the long journey.” Shaw turned, leaving them to their revelry. And soon they were falling down drunk, having already forgotten about the new mound beside the trader’s house.

Next morning the brandy barrels in front of Shaw’s House were gone. The men walked around the compound, still a little drunk and perplexed. Thinking, barely. Now focused on only one thing. ‘Where did the brandy barrels go?’ They looked at the strange mound by Shaw’s house again. No entrance. Anywhere.

Shaw sat in front of his house, smoking his pipe, watching his men. There was a look of satisfaction on his usually stoic face. He took a sip of his brandy and toasted those closest to him. “To your health Pierre, men.” Pierre only spat in return. The rest, including McDonald, only glared. Shaw only smiled in return, relishing his private stock of liquor. Not even the smell was that bad when your private stock was safe.

……………………….

Fort George, Alberta, 1978.

Harry Reed and his crew were excavating parts of the Big House at Fort George, probably the residence of Angus Shaw and his country wife. And a large subterranean structure beside the Big House. Even though it was a hot Alberta afternoon along the river, everyone was happy. This was a great fort site. As he would later learn, maybe one of the best, and most complex, he would ever excavate.

“Jay, what did you find in that big storage cellar?”

“Well, all pretty normal. It’s a wood cribbed subterranean structure with the roof coming down to the ground. Poles, with bark and sod roof. Kind of a root cellar with a roof, probably all covered with sod.” Harry looked at the sketch Jay gave him, then at Jay, and the somewhat concerned look on his assistant’s face.

“And, what else, Jay?”

“It doesn’t have an outside entrance. We’re missing something Harry.”

Harry stared at Jay. Maybe a little too long. He hated these situations. Because you kept digging until you found out why the building did not have a door. Even if it took all summer. Chasing one little fact for countless hours. Was it worth it? Who really cared if you added that fact to the historic record. He did.

Harry looked at Jay again, wondering if he was getting too much sun. “A building without an entrance. Ridiculous, Jay.” Jay looked at Harry and knew immediately what he was thinking. ‘Find the damned entrance. Even if if takes the rest of the summer.’ So, they went to work.

A few weeks later, the project now almost over, the two men sat talking, drinking their beers, overlooking the large excavated storage cellar and parts of the Big House. “So, why would he do that, Harry? Did he want all the brandy for himself?”

Harry thought for a moment, took another swig of his beer before answering. “He didn’t trust his men I guess. Not with the liquor. That was the only way he could control the supplies. And those brass spigots for casks we found down there certainly hint to liquor storage.” They sat in silence pondering their somewhat unusual find.

Fort George, 2015

The little boy, holding his father’s hand, read the interpretive sign overlooking an enormous hole in the ground at the Fort George site. “Why would the trader have a secret passageway from his house into this cellar dad?”

“Maybe he didn’t trust his men, son.”

“But what if the archaeologists hadn’t found this passageway?”

“Then, son, I guess we might not know as much about the relationship between the boss and his men.”

“But what if it doesn’t mean that at all dad? Maybe the trader was too lazy to go out in the minus forty degree winter night and get some brandy? So, he had the men build a passageway to the cellar from his quarters.”

The father looked thoughtfully at his boy. “I agree. Except for one thing. There was no other entrance, except through his quarters. I don’t think he wanted his men traipsing through his private quarters all the time. And he didn’t want them in that cellar. Looks a little suspicious to me, son.” They walked off, still a little puzzled, to read another interpretive panel at the site.

Author’s Note

For many years I thought about the peculiar storage cellar and its even stranger entrance at Fort George. Although we looked for an outside entrance, the evidence was sketchy. The concealed tunnel from Angus Shaw’s Big House to the storage cellar was real enough. Below is a sketch of the fort showing the location of the cellar and the entrance into the Big House. The cellar excavation was incredible. The roof had collapsed into it and was almost completely intact. Poles, bark and all. For me it was one of those rare archaeological moments.

This is a revised version of Robert Kidd’s (1970) layout of Fort George, based on our later excavations at the fort. The final story about this fort, and who occupied it, has not yet been told. The layout of this fort, in a short eight year period of occupation, changed several times. In fact, in one of those versions, the south palisade ran through former buildings. And, many of the building cellars were packed with rubbish. This has also puzzled me for many years. I have been toying with the idea that after the North West Company abandoned this fort, someone else (i.e., independent peddlers, Metis freemen, etc.) re-occupied it. Presently, the archaeological facts just don’t fit with a single occupation.

Interpreting what we found, however, was the most difficult part of all. Obviously Shaw wanted a private entrance into his stores. But why? Was the little boy right? Simply for convenience? Or, because of the social distance and distrust between North West Company Scottish traders and their mostly French Canadian/Metis labourers? Other differences, including clothing, housing and food, and type of labor, also separated the Company officers from their men.

As is often the case, there is no definitive proof or one answer here. All too common when dealing with either the historic documentary or archaeological records. This story represents one of those possibilities.

References

Coues, Elliot (editor). 1897. New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest: The Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry, Fur Trader of the Northwest Company, and David Thompson, Official Geographer and Explorer of the Same Company, 1799-1814. Volume 2. Ross and Haines, Minneapolis.

Kidd, Robert S. 1970. Fort George and the Early Fur Trade in Alberta. Provincial Museum and Archives of Alberta, Publication No. 2.

Masson, L. R. (editor). 1890. John McDonald of Garth Autobiographical Notes, 1791-1816. In Les Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord-ouest: Recits de voyages, lettres et rapports inedits relatifs au nord-ouest Canadien. Volume 2. De l’imprimerie generala. cote et cie, Quebec.

Morton, Arthur S. (editor). 1929. The Journal of Duncan M’Gillivray of the North West Company at Fort George on the Saskatchewan, 1794-5. MacMillan, Toronto.

My Little Wooden House: Wood Building Techniques in Canada

Canadians, for the most part, used wood as the material of choice to build their homes. For hundreds of years. The construction methods however, have changed over that period of time. And when we go back to the 17th and 18th centuries, some of the methods seem foreign to us today. Here is a brief chronological rundown (starting with the most recent) of those building construction methods, ending with some very unique ones I have seen in Alberta.

I’ll quickly summarize the modern techniques which are elaborated on elsewhere. Also, J. Gottfred has extensively covered log building construction techniques, and I (Pyszczyk, 1992) have also written extensively on western Canadian log construction techniques (more from an archaeological perspective).

Modern Stud Frame Building Construction

Depending on where you live, current stud frame house construction started sometime in the early 20th century. Here uniformly cut 2″ x 4″ or 2″ x 6″ ‘studs’, 8′ – 10′ long were used to build the building frame. The studs for walls only extended one storey, and then the entire process was repeated at the 2nd and 3rd stories. Wall infill consisted of various materials to insulate the building. The interior and exterior was then clad with a variety of materials. This construction technique uses large quantities of nails or screws to join everything together.

Balloon Frame Building Construction

Said to date from the 1830’s – 1930s in the US, the balloon frame house shown in this photograph differs mainly from the stud frame house by the length of the studs which extend all the way to the roof line in the former (even in a second or third storey building). As with modern stud framing, infill and cladding consisted of various materials, and everything hung together with nails. Some people think the ‘balloon’ description for this building method originated from its skeptics believing it would blow away in a severe wind, like a balloon. (Courtesy of Scott Sidler)

The Old Bay House, Fort Vermilion, Alberta, shown on the front page of my web site, constructed in c.1908, is a balloon frame building. One of the oldest in Alberta. I’d be guessing if I tried dating this method in various parts of Canada (if any of you have more information on this method in Canada, I’d love to hear from you). It likely first appears in areas having access to standardized milled lumber.
Inside of the Old Bay House, Fort Vermilion, Alberta, showing wood interior wall and ceiling cladding.

Massed Log Building Construction

This technique consists of laying a series of horizontal logs on top of one another and connecting them with various types of notching on the corners of the building. It has various names and origins, and appears at different times in different parts of Canada. The French called it “pièce sur pièce” (piece on piece) construction. The cracks between the logs were chinked and the interior walls were sometimes mudded (more on that later). The technique is ‘wood heavy’, requiring large, long, straight logs, which are left rounded or squared. Few nails are used in this technique; logs are joined by wooden dowels at intervals along the wall.

The dovetail corner notching method is one of the most elaborate techniques found in western Canada (shown below). The angled joints in this method don’t require overhang (as in a saddle notched corner) and prevent the corners from coming apart. There are many good examples in Alberta, but some of the best I have seen come from the central and northern parts of the province.

This somewhat unique log building, at Carcajou, Alberta, has dovetail corner notching and logs only squared near the corners; the rest are left round. Carcajou was one of the earliest Metis settlements in Alberta, already shown on David Thompson’s 1826 map, as ‘Wolverine Point‘. In this community, this technique might have had a French Canadian influence. This building dates to the late 19th – early 20th century.
This log building, constructed in 1987 by the Hudson’s Bay Company, at Carcajou, Alberta, also has dovetail corner notching. The ethnic origins of its builder are unknown. The Company at this time hired people with different ethnic backgrounds, including French Canadians.
Close up view of the Carcajou HBC log building showing a series of round auger marks in the logs. The marks were used to number the logs, suggesting that this building had been dismantled and repaired, or dismantled and moved.

Massed log corner notching construction technique, probably the most familiar to many people, is also difficult to date in Canada. In some parts of the country it likely goes back as far as the beginnings of basic log construction, with a simple saddle notched log cabin at the lake or woods. And being built as recently as the last decade. In Alberta, the earliest dated example of dovetail notching is the clerk’s quarters at Dunvegan (c.1878 – present-day). The first Ukrainian immigrants (late 19th century) in Alberta used the dovetail notching method as well. Here are a few more examples of this technique. Assigning any definitive ethnic affiliation to these methods is problematic. There are likely many.

Top Left Photograph: The clerk’s quarter, Hudson’s Bay Company, Dunvegan, Alberta (c.1878 – present).

Bottom Right Photograph: A close-up view of the clerk’s quarters building corner showing the elaborate dovetail corner notching.
Old cabin, near Buck Lake, Alberta. Massed log saddle notching construction technique. Date unknown.

Red River Frame/Post-and-Plank

Also referred to as poteaux et pièce coulissante (posts and sliding piece), Gottfred suggests this method was adapted in New France from the French method of plankwall framing. In the much colder Canadian winter, logs replaced planks. In this method upright logs were grooved (mortised) and set along the building walls and corners at intervals, and then horizontal logs filled in the rest of the wall by carving tenons on the ends which fit into the uprights (Tongue and groove, mortise and tenon). The technique uses shorter (than massed log construction) infill logs between the vertical uprights. It uses few nails. Instead wood dowels along the walls and corners kept everything together.

I have seen two types of log wall framing methods in western Canada: 1) Post-on-sill; and, 2) Post-in-ground (see schematic diagram below). Post-on-sill was used after c.1830 by the Hudson’s Bay Company at many of its inland forts. Post-in-ground is an earlier form of framed log construction, going back to the 1780s in Alberta, and probably much earlier at the Saskatchewan and Manitoba fur trade posts. With this method the vertical posts are set in pits in the ground. At the turn of the 19th century we also see combinations of the two methods, such as at the HBC Nottingham House in northern Alberta. However this method should not be confused with the true post-in-ground (Poteaux-en-terre) method used earlier in French Canada (discussed later).

Pretend you are looking at a vertical wall and a cut-away of the ground in this image. These were the two most common log framed construction techniques for the various fur trade companies in western Canada. Archaeologically, the post-in-ground method is easy to identify because of the large pits dug to place the posts in, up to a metre deep in the ground. For some reason this method was abandoned in favor of the post-on-sill method, which eventually gave way to the massed dovetail log construction method.
All of the excavated buildings at the North West Company Fort George (c1792-1800), Alberta, were constructed using the post-in-ground method. In this photograph we exposed a vertical wood post in a pit with horizontal wood sills (foundation logs) butting up to it (likely tenoned into it).
This scaled drawing of a building wall found at the North West Company, Boyer’s Fort (c.1788-1792) shows a vertical post in a pit with the building sills (base logs) butting up to it
Excavations of the main house, at the HBC Buckingham House site, northern Alberta, showing some post pits holding the vertical posts of building walls, and the corner posts sitting on sills. Courtesy Karlis Karklins, Parks Canada.
One of the large warehouses at the c.1830 – 1915 HBC Fort Edmonton, Alberta being dismantled. A good example of post-on-sill-construction where the squared horizontal infill logs were inserted into the grooved vertical logs along the wall of the building. A large vertical timber is laying in the foreground of this c.1915 photograph. With this method the entire building could be taken apart and repaired, or moved and built elsewhere with relative ease. This particular fort building was built in the c.1860s when the fort expanded.
When traveling, I’m always on the lookout for log buildings. A large barn structure, New South Wales, Australia. A kind of post-in-ground framed log construction technique without the bottom logs. Adapted for either better ventilation, or flooding, for which parts of Australia are notorious.

Original Post-in-Ground (Poteaux-en-terre) and Post-on-Sill (Poteaux-sur-sol) Construction

Unfortunately, there is some confusion with all these similar architectural terms. The original 17th century French versions of Post-in-Ground and Post-on-sill log construction refer to entirely different log construction method. In this method the logs for the entire wall are all placed vertically, either in a trench in the ground, or sat on a horizontal foundation log (sill), or stones. The spaces between them were filled with stone, bricks and mud. As the images below show, they have a very distinct archaeological imprint making them readily recognizable.

Post-on-sill vertical log wall construction. An early French Canadian method where cracks between the vertical walls are filled with stones, bricks, plaster or mud. Courtesy: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Drawing_of_Poteaux-en-Terre_in_the_Beauvais_House_in_Ste_Genevieve_MO.png
Image of a rowhouse, Fort Michilimackinac (c.1715 -30). Vertical wood wall posts would either sit on a sill or in a trench in the ground. (from Stone, 1974)
French House (c.1720-30), Fort Michilimackinac (from Stone, 1974). This small French house at the fort was definitely French post-in-ground construction. The archaeological evidence would reveal vertical post remains standing side-by-side in a trench. We searched for this building construction method in western Canada, but to no avail. Even though many of the early forts were likely constructed by French Canadians. I thought I had found a vertical building wall at the 1798 NWC LaFleur’s post in the Peace River Region. Later I realized that a new building had been constructed over a former old palisade wall which would have had similar vertical posts sitting in a trench.

The post-in-ground method originated in France, possibly the Normandy area. Here vertical posts for the wall were placed in the ground, and filled in between with either brick or stones. In the much colder climates of Canada the entire wall was made of vertical wood and covered by mud or plaster to prevent drafts and heat loss (from Russell Versaci, 2008)

Mud, the Plaster of Yesterday

Whenever I lecture on log construction techniques, I emphasize the importance of mud, or some mud/clay mixture, during construction. Many of the 18th – 19th century framed log buildings we excavated in Alberta used a mixture of mud/clay/straw to chink the outside walls. Sometimes entire the interior building walls were completely mudded. Also stone fireplaces and chimneys were covered with mud as well. I think the mud was not only used to prevent drafts from coming through the cracks between the logs, but when the interior walls or fireplace was mudded (as much as two inches thick) the mud worked as a heat sink absorbing the heat from the fire and retaining it in the mud walls.

Mud outer wall chinking on this building from Carcajou, Alberta. A branch or sapling was inserted into the crack (because it was large) and then the entire area filled with mud.

The importance of good mud or clay for this type of log building construction cannot be overstated: “I arrived at the entrance of Riviere Original…I brought the goods,however, to a large point on the south-east of the lake, and wrought two or three days at felling trees, but, to my great mortification we then discovered there was no clay to be found within five leagues of us.”  (Angus Shaw, NWC, 1789, near Moose Lake, Alberta)

Top Left Photograph: A schematic drawing of the willow lathe framework placed diagonally over the log inside walls of Angus Shaw’s big house at the NWC Fort George (c.1792-1800).

Lower Right Photograph: Fired mud chinking and wall suggesting that the building burned down. And by doing so the mud became fired and hard as brick. The impressions in the fired mud told us whether the wall logs were squared or rounded and if lathing had been placed on them. I have seen cut lathing on the inside walls of early 20th century Ukrainian houses in Alberta, to keep the mud in place. (Images from Kidd, 1970)
Top Left Photograph: Still standing (at least in the early 20th century) stone and mud fireplace, Fort Reliance, NWT. Similar fireplaces were built at other 18th-19th century fur trade posts. The chimney is made of logs and sticks, covered in mud. A similar fireplace chimney was noted in some fur trade journals: “…fixed Poles to the chimney of Mr. McLeod’s upper Room in order to heighten it.” (Daily Transactions, Fort Dunvegan, Alberta).

Bottom Right Photograph: A single stone fireplace at the NWC Fort George, Alberta (now on display at the Royal Alberta Museum). After being abandoned the mud from the fireplace and chimney oozed over the charred floor remains, preserving them perfectly.

Not Everything was Wood

I’ll end this post with one of the most unusual houses I have ever set my eyes on in Alberta. ‘Soddies’ were a common form of building construction on the Canadian prairies where wood was rare. But in central Alberta? Below is a still-standing (I hope) sod and wood framed house in east central Alberta. A truly unique and rather unorthodox home.

This wood framed house, with sod infill for walls, was built in east-central Alberta. Perhaps one of the most unique houses I have ever seen. According to Government of Alberta files: 1907 – Homestead filed and smaller sod house built; 1910 – House built; 1911 – Exterior plastered with lime and sand, and interior finished with Beaverboard; 1950 – last occupied. (Photographs and information Courtesy of Historic Sites Service, Government of Alberta)
A close-up view of the sod infill used to fashion the walls of this house. The sod was then covered with plaster and beaverboard. Unfortunately, this exposed part of the wall now makes for a great nesting area for barn swallows. As with straw bale wall construction, the trick here is to completely seal the wall to prevent rodents or other critters from getting in. (Photographs and information Courtesy of Historic Sites Service, Government of Alberta)

What is ‘Canadian‘?

As Canadians we have a long tradition of building our homes with wood. And we continue to do so. For example, in 2019 there were a total of 187,177 houses built in Canada, and I would think most of them were wood framed structures.

Some of the Canadian wood building methods used over the centuries occur in other places in North America and the world. Assigning specific dates, or origin, or builder ethnic affiliation, is risky and cannot always be generalized. The examples I give here are mostly from western Canada, and dates, ethnic affiliation or construction methods, will vary elsewhere in the country and continent.

But, there are some Canadian wood building methods that were adapted from Europe to deal with our often harsh Canadian environment, peoples’ specific needs, or their economies. They are truly our own. They are Canadian.

References

Kidd, Robert, 1970. Archeological Excavations at the Probable Site of the First Fort Edmonton or Fort Augustus, 1795 to Early 1800’s”. Provincial Museum of Alberta Human History Occasional Paper No. 3. Alberta Culture and Multiculturalism Historical Resources Division, 1987.

Pyszczyk, Heinz, 1992. The Architecture of the Western Canadian Fur Trade: A Cultural-Historical Perspective. Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada, 17(2):32-41.

Stone, Lyle M., 1974. Fort Michilimackinac, 1715-1781. An Archaeological Perspective on the Revolutionary Frontier. Publications of the Museum Michigan State University.

Versaci, Russell, 2008. Roots of Home. Our Journey to a New Old House. The Taunton Press.