We’ll Build Us A ‘Yole’

The Scottish yole is a wooden boat, built in a variety of sizes in the Orkney Islands (and elsewhere) for fishing. It could be rowed or sailed. The boats are probably of Nordic origins.

The Hudson’s Bay Company recruited Orkneymen to work at their Canadian-based forts. They brought with them their boat building knowledge and soon built a boat that was adapted to work on Hudson Bay and then the inland waters of the Canadian West. It is commonly referred to as the York Boat, named after the Company’s York Factory on Hudson Bay. A craft similar to the yole but better suited for Canada’s lakes and rivers.

Hayes River, Near York Factory, Early Summer, 1796

“Faster men! Faster! Bail faster. No, paddle faster.” The helmsman of one of the Saskatchewan brigade canoes kept screaming, then pleading, for his charges to paddle and bail with all their might. Their now rickety birch bark canoe, full of holes from the wear and tear of over a thousand miles of river travel, was about to sink. And they along with it.

Peter Fidler, just named chief mapmaker and surveyor for the Hudson’s Bay Company, sat in one of the other canoes looking on. Mildly annoyed. About as annoyed as anyone could get when there was really nothing more to do but bail. But there was plenty of time to sit and think as well. These boats are leaking like sieves. And barely a tree in sight to repair them properly before we go back.

He wasn’t a man who complained much. He had already proven he was capable of putting up with tremendous hardships. Anything the Company threw at their new rising star, Fidler could handle. But he was frustrated on how to deal with this predicament. The Company’s inland transportation system was a mess. This sinking flotilla that carried their goods and furs for thousands of miles on the inland waters was a constant problem and headache.

Who do I blame more. This intractable Company or this hostile land? Peter often was torn on this matter.

And then there were the Canadians. An even bigger problem. Not only are we sinking half the time, those scoundrels help us to the bottom. Constantly harassing me and my men. Telling us we have no business in ‘their’ country. Fidler knew the Company was often the laughing stock of the west, barely able to keep their boats afloat let alone handle them.

It was always like this for the Hudson’s Bay Company canoe brigades. Now that they had to chase the furs inland instead of letting the Indians come to them at the Bay. By the time they reached Hudson Bay, their canoes were in tatters and they were hanging on to their very lives. They were at a great disadvantage to the Canadian-run North West Company, whose French Canadian voyageurs lived on the water for a good part of the year. The men knew how to build and handle the large birch bark freight canoes.

Damn those Canadian water dogs, thought Fidler. They outmaneuver us at every turn and take advantage of their superior skills with the canoes. Unlike our Orkneymen, while stout enough, but know nothing about these flimsy craft and how to best keep them afloat. He watched and bailed as the shore came steadily closer.

Fidler’s brigade finally made it to York Factory without sinking. But the men were unhappy. And Fidler heard the grumbling.

“God-dammit Peter, these craft leak like sieves if you just touch them. And they’re about as steady as a round log. Even the French Canadians complain. I overheard one old voyageur joking that when you sat in a loaded freight canoe you had to keep your tongue in the middle of your mouth or you would capsize the damn thing. This situation is ridiculous. And now, how are we going to fix these wrecks? There’s not a bloody birch tree within five-hundred miles of this place.”

Fidler could only nod in agreement. He tried to put James at ease. The complaining would only erode more the moral of his men. “We brought some bark rind with us James, so we can do the patchwork and get ready to go back. Settle down man. Unload the canoes and then go get drunk or something.”

Richard, another young, capable Orkneyman was already heading up the bank. He yelled back at the others. “I’m done lads. My contract’s up and I’m not signing on again. I’m heading home. I’ve had enough of these stupid boats. They’re about as sturdy as a hayseed in a wind storm.” Then he looked at Fidler.

“And, Sir, if the situation doesn’t improve, you won’t have any men left to work the canoes. And you’ll not get any new recruits out of the Orkney’s once word gets out. Christ, I’d rather sign on with his Royal Majesty’s press gangs and serve on a ship of the line, than put up with this shit.”

Again Peter Fidler said little. Because there was little to say. They were right. Now watching his men walk away he was becoming angry. It was time to talk with the Governor about the state of the Company’s inland operations, and the welfare of its employees.

He carefully unpacked his precious maps and instruments and started up the bank toward the fort. Thank God these didn’t get wet or lost. That would have been a real calamity. Peter Fidler’s first priority were his maps and logs. But, solutions to the Company’s transportation needs, and dealing with those Canadian pests, were taking up more and more of his time and energy.

…………………….

The Governor’s Residence, York Factory

Peter Fidler’s map of the Swan River and Upper Assiniboine Region. Fidler was a meticulous map maker. His works are considered equal to those of David Thompson. Giving him the title of Canada’s ‘forgotten’ mapmaker.

That evening Peter Fidler dined with the Governor and a few other company officers. After months of river travel through the wilds, the meal and companionship was welcome enough. But Fidler seemed slightly out of sorts, although he tried to keep up his side of the table-talk and news.

Samuel Wegg sensed something was wrong. Trained as a lawyer at Cambridge, a Fellow of the Royal Society, and eventually becoming Governor in 1782, Wegg missed little. Including Fidler’s seeming preoccupation with other things. Time to press a little bit to see what’s wrong with my favorite inland trader. He’s not normally this sour looking. Wegg waited patiently for his opportunity.

Wegg watched on as the tobacco pipes and brandy came out after the meal. Soon a cloud of aromatic tobacco smoke hung in the room. Wegg hoped maybe the young Fidler would relax and open up a bit. The setting was casual enough. By now Peter was well known, liked and respected, among the officers. His recent sojourns into the Canadian west and his excellent maps had gained him the admiration of not only the officers, but also the Company’s London committee.

Finally Wegg saw his chance. “Well, Peter, quite the haul of furs you brought back with you. Despite the fierce competition from the Canadians. You should be happy and proud of your accomplishments these last few years. A lucrative trade, adventure and map-making of a very high standard. Your maps are as good or even better than that traitorous scoundrel Thompson’s. Even Aaron Arrowsmith in London is impressed. He wants to publish your latest works. And newly married. What else could a man want?” The bait was out, but would Peter take it?

Fidler looked around at the men, then at the Governor, wondering. Should I risk it? Should I say something or just shut up? A few years back his choice would have been easy. ‘Be quiet.’ It was the Company’s problem not his. But now he realized he was fast becoming an important part of the Company and something had to be done soon or they would all be driven out of the west by the Canadians.

Suddenly he realized all eyes were looking his way. He poured himself another brandy and began. The other officers were silent, as if his words were important. Hoping he would say what some of them operating inland were also thinking.

“Well, Sir, if you must know it’s our transportation system out west. These birch bark freight canoes work well enough for the Canadians. They have many men with enough knowledge and materials to keep them afloat. We don’t, and it puts us at a great disadvantage in the trade.”

“You got back safe and sound Peter. What are you complaining about?” Wegg, pretending everything was well, had known for some time everything was not.

“Yes, with my feet in water at the bottom of our canoes. Ready to tip over any minute. Which are now battered and in need of repair. But, with nothing to repair them with. And Sir, our Orkneymen hate them. Absolutely detest them. If the Company continues to use them, I’m afraid we’ll lose our men and struggle even more out west. There are already shortages in manpower with the wars, and it’s becoming harder and harder to recruit good men from the Islands.”

George Sutherland, in charge of Edmonton House, who accompanied Fidler, finally spoke. Strangely William Tomison, in charge of Buckingham House, was missing at the table. “Sir, until we were forced to move inland what was the number one advantage we had in the trade over the Canadians?”

Wegg decided to play along. “Transportation and cost, of course. Even after moving inland, the cost of moving our supplies west and furs back are not nearly as high as that of the Canadians. If only our equipment was in better shape, so we don’t lose half of what we haul.”

“Then, Sir, what if we could reduce those costs even further by improving our system of supplying the western posts? And getting our furs safely to York Factory. That would really put a scare into those Canadians out west.” Sutherland looked at Fidler, waiting for him to take up the argument and continue.

Finally Peter spoke. “Governor, the Company has used the bateaus and York boats around the Bay for years. They are seaworthy, can go up the rivers a certain distance, and can haul tremendous amounts of goods. Why not try them out west?”

Smith, one of the officers stationed at York Factory, was already shaking his head. “You can’t be serious Peter? Those boats aren’t fit for the inland rivers and lakes. You might get out in the spring but you’d never make it back in the late summer and fall when the rivers drop and become very shallow. And the portages? How do you propose we haul a boat that weighs a ton or more across them?”

Fidler went on, as if he had already thought carefully about most of these obstacles. “We re-adapt the Bay boats. We built a boat to fit the country and its waters. Make the bottom flatter, so that its draft is extremely shallow and more suitable for the inland rivers. And we use a log roller and pulley system to move them over the portages. Each boat will need at least eight or nine men who can pull them. That’s a lot of manpower. Or, we build boats on either side of the major portages.”

Smith only snorted. “The Canadians would pillage and burn those boats in a heartbeat. They use some of the same inland routes we do. Or, we would have to leave men to guard them. That might not even work.”

“It might not. But what we’re doing right now, in fact, does not work. We need to change, soon. Or there won’t be any competition left for the Canadians.”

At theses last words the others were looking down, staring into their brandy glasses for inspiration. As if the answers to their problems lay somewhere down there. None seemed to appear.

Fidler pressed on. “Our only hope is to improve our means of transportation and hold on. Keep on competing with those renegade Canadians at every turn. We won’t always win, but every battle takes its toll. Eventually someone will break. If we survive, then we can tailor our transportation to suit our needs.”

“Meanwhile, I suggest we add a few more skilled craftsmen to some key forts. But keep in mind by using a York boat, which could haul at least three times as much as a freight canoe, we wouldn’t need as many canoes, nor men to paddle them.”

The room fell silent. Everyone, including the Governor, was weighing the matter carefully. It had its merits. But also its warts.

“You wintered at Buckingham House with William Tomison, Fidler. Did you put any of this to him?”

Fidler now had a somewhat dour look on his face. As if he was mulling something very distasteful over. Tomison’s not here. Why not? Well, might as well get it out there too. No sense stopping now, he thought.

“With all due respect, Sir. Mr. Tomison is a good enough trader. There isn’t a principle Native man in the country that he doesn’t know and who seem to like and respect him enough. All very important considerations in the trade. They like us better than those Canadians in most cases.”

“What’s wrong then Fidler. The look on your face doesn’t match your words very well.”

Fidler went on. “Sir, Mr. Tomison isn’t a very imaginative or creative man in these matters. He sticks to what he knows even if it might undo him. I have argued with him occasionally on this point and he refuses to budge. He has two fine young Orkney carpenters at the fort and that blacksmith Gilbert Laughton can fix or make anything. We have all the tools and expertise, except willpower, to make a few prototypes and try them out on the river. What have we got to lose?”

At those words the Governor scowled. He didn’t like his men backstabbing their fellow employees. But Fidler’s words made sense. And Tomison, while he was a steady enough man in the trade, was becoming more and more set in his ways. After thirty-five years with the Company, who wouldn’t. Refusing to see what needed changing before it was too late.

Then Wegg smiled, as if only now remembering something. And the atmosphere in the room lifted considerably. “Well, Fidler, it just so happens Mr. Tomison is coming out and going to England on leave. Why don’t you take over at Buckingham House for the winter and see what can be done.”

Fidler, at first somewhat shocked at these words, sensed that the Governor was already ahead of him in this matter. Why had he sent two very skilled carpenters west to Buckingham House? Certainly not to build cathedrals. And why Orkneymen? Those islands produced some of the best boat-builders in the British Isles. Men who built the sturdy yoles, crafted after the Norse longboats from centuries past. Suddenly Fidler had a new respect for Wegg.

He looked quickly over at Sutherland, who was looking into the blazing fire, grinning, with a very satisfied look on his face. Either he’s drunk or has already talked to the Governor about this matter. And I wonder what tidbits he’s put in the Governor’s ear? George Sutherland, even though quiet, was a crafty man. A thinking man. An Orkneyman who knew something about boats. Also, someone who knew the trade out west was falling to pieces unless they did something about it.

“Sir, I don’t particularly like going behind my superior’s back in these matters. It only causes even more disharmony among the men. And, we already have enough of that.” Fidler now had a worried look on his face, realizing what Tomison might later accuse him of if any this got out.

“Don’t worry about Mr. Tomison, Fidler. By the time I’m finished with him, he’ll see the brilliance of our plan. Especially if you succeed. Besides, he’ll be nice and mellow, and most agreeable after his stay in England. Just carry on and do what’s needed. Do what you think is in the best interest of the Company. This business of transportation is a very serious matter, Gentlemen. So serious, if not fixed, soon, could break our backs in the west.”

Fall, 1796, the North Saskatchewan River

Just before the Hudson’s Company canoe brigade reached Buckingham House, they dawned their finest clothing, fired their muskets into the skies, and started singing as they paddled their canoes toward the fort. It was the custom of the land. They hoped their comrades at the fort heard the shots and would give them a hearty salute in return to welcome them home.

However, they were in for a surprise. There, a short distance downstream from their fort, were their rivals, the jeering Canadians, also ready to welcome them back. Shooting their muskets in the air and occasionally closely over their heads. A little too closely for comfort.

“Hey Fidler, what took you so long. You travel only half the distance we do and you arrive later than us.” There was John McDonald of Garth again, a brash Canadian Scot, waving his musket in one hand and his bottle of brandy in the other.

“Oh, Christ, Peter. Can’t we go out a distance so we don’t have to listen to their insults?” Young Isbister wanted nothing to do with the rowdy Canadians.

“Can’t John. We might sink. Our canoes are almost shredded from the journey. We need to make shore and fast.”

Just as they were about to pass the Canadians, someone on shore threw a clod of mud catching one of Fidler’s men square in the head, nearly knocking him senseless. A few of the men started to draw muskets, but Fidler yelled at them.

“Put your weapons away. No violence. It does little good here. Paddle faster. Let’s get past them and then we’ll be home.” Just as he finished a few of the Canadians threw out a large log which sliced through the water like a spear, squarely hitting one of the canoes in the side, and tearing a large hole in it. Now the men were frantically bailing, faster than even before.

MacDonald was at it again, shouting and jeering at the now sinking boat. “Well, Pro Pelle Cutem (for the pelt, the skin) my boys, or whatever it is your stupid Company motto means. I guess you’ll pay with your hides now, you cursed bastards. You should leave this country. Forever. You don’t belong here.”

MacDonald took another swig of brandy. Now refueled he hollered more insults across the water. “Arrogant English turds. You have a fancy slogan in Latin? Will your Latin help you now?”

One of Fidler’s men had enough. He suddenly drew his musket and fired at McDonald, barely missing the man and smashing his brandy bottle in the process. Instead of being frightened for his life, McDonald, now fuming bellowed out. “You broke my bottle and the brandy’s all gone, you Orkney twit.” He began to draw his musket, but having trouble now both standing and trying to find it. Before managing more mischief, he was quickly grabbed by his men and dragged up the bank to the North West Company fort, still swearing and cursing.

As the Hudson’s Bay Company canoes finally reached home, they had a much more cordial welcome from their people. The muskets were fired into the air to salute the brigade’s return. Finally, home. But, barely. The leaves were turning and the nights were already frosty. Soon the Saskatchewan would freeze up for another season. And it would get incredibly cold.

Buckingham House, Peter Fidler’s Quarters

April 8, Friday, [1796]. Wind and weather as yesterday. Four men finished the bateau. Tailor making clothing for the men, one man ailing, and the rest pointing stockades and fitting them to the ribbon. At noon one tent of Indians brought thirty beaver and three rolls of birchrind not very good. Also in the evening William Tate and Robert Garrock returned, brought eight rolls of birchrind very bad. (Journal of George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/1, 1795-96; brackets mine)

Fidler was in his winter quarters. Standing in front of the fire, trying to warm up after their journey. He turned toward his man. “Well, Samuel. How was the summer? I hope you followed my instructions and got what we needed.”

Samuel, standing in front of Fidler, was wringing and twisting his hat, as if trying to squeeze something out of it.

“Sir, we tried. First we wanted to trade birch rind with the Natives coming to the fort. They gave us little and only of poor quality. Wouldn’t part with any of the good rind. When we asked why, they merely grinned and said our competition gives twice the amount we do for a good role of birch rind.”

Fidler frowned. His first few days back in charge and nothing but bad news everywhere. And those rotten Canadians were constantly meddling in their business. He sighed. If this continued, it would be a long, long winter. No wonder Tomison sometimes acted like an eighty-year old. This business could wear you out.

“At least then we have the rolls that we stock-piled this spring. We desperately need to repair our canoes or we might not make it out next spring. Good thing Tomison managed to lay in that bark for our canoes.”

“Oh, that’s gone too, Sir. Some scoundrel set fire to it. It’s all burned up. Nothing left but a few charred pieces. We’ll try trading for more, but it will cost us triple to get anything good.”

Fidler’s frown deepened. He guessed who the ‘scoundrels’ were that Samuel was referring to. “Just what the hell are we going to do, Samuel? We need that rind or find another way of moving our goods.” Then he remembered his meeting with the Governor. Instead of whining, it was time to act.

“Samuel, go fetch the two Orkney carpenters and Gilbert Laughton. We need to make a plan, now, fast before it’s too late.”

Samuel nodded and was about to run out to fetch the men. “But before you go, Samuel, be a good lad and bring me that bottle of brandy from the cellar. I’m going to need it before this is all over.”

A rare find. This liquor bottle found in the cellar beneath the officers’ quarters at the Hudson’s Bay Company Buckingham House. The same quarters that Peter Fidler wintered in 1796-97. It may have contained brandy. Or perhaps some other type of liquor.

During the early fur trade, most liquor was sent out west in wooden kegs. Glass goods were a rarity and probably smuggled in. A complete, intact bottle, cork and all, is even a more rare find. (Photograph, courtesy of the Royal Alberta Museum)

……………………

Buckingham House, December 20th, 1796.

Dear Sir [George Sutherland], Your men arrived here all safe the 18th instant, and have sent as much trading goods as loaded the six horses (which was all they brought down) as per list enclosed. The awls, steels, worms etc. shall be made as soon as the cold weather is over, which of late has been so intense (sixty below the cypher) that the smith could not get anything made of small articles; hitherto he has been employed in repairing falling hatchets (as there was not any fit for use here) and making nails for the bateaux.

Shall pay every attention in getting the boats as fast forward as possible – one is nearly finished and the carpenters will go to the woods after Christmas to saw stuff for the other one….

Wishing you health and a happy new year I remain dear Sir, your obedient humble servant Peter Fidler. (Letter from Peter Fidler, Buckingham House, to George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/2; brackets mine)


“You want to do what, Peter? Build a yole? This isn’t the bloody North Sea, you know. That trickle of water down there won’t hold a boat that size. You’ll be scraping along the bottom of the drink all the time.” Fidler’s blacksmith, Gilbert Laughton, also an Orkneyman, was not entirely optimistic this new plan would work.

“Nicol, John, you’re both boat carpenters. What do you think? Can we do it? This blasted canoe business has to stop. And Tomison isn’t around to sink our plans.”

John Davey was also among the group. “Can I help, Sir. I want to learn as much as I can about the boats and how to build one. I think it will revolutionize how we transport our goods.”

Both Nicol Spence and John Moore looked at the young Davey. “What exactly do you know about boats, Davey? And water? I saw you nearly drown when ankle deep in the river.” The two men had a good laugh at the now red-faced Davey’s expense.

“I sailed a lot before I came to the Colonies. I watched the men at home build the boats, but I was still too young to learn properly. We could modify our boats a bit from what we used at sea. To better suit the river.”

“How so, John? Those boats worked well enough. What would you do different?” Peter, although knowing already what was needed, was intent on hearing everyone out, before making any decisions.

After thinking a bit, Davey answered, “The prow of the boat has to be pretty narrow to cut easily through the river currents. The beam should be wider than our yoles, for more stability and cargo space. Then I would design the hull with almost no deadrise, so the draft would be small, and she would sit right on top of the water. Even when empty, because of the width, she would still be pretty stable.”

Fidler looked at Davey with a new kind of interest. The lad seemed to know what he was talking about. “What about strength? We need something that won’t fall apart when we look at it, or step in it.”

“Sawed lap-planks, Sir. We’ll build a ‘clinker boat’ with planks about an inch thick, overlapping one another. We’ll steam them and bend and nail them around the frame. Then we’ll caulk or spruce gum the seams.” Davey, now beet-red from forgetting to breath while he talked, was getting excited about the project.

Two types of wood boat framing commonly used on wooden ship hulls. Clinker boat frames (left) resemble the Viking ships and were very strong, and also used to make yoles in the Orkney Islands.

“We can’t use iron nails, John. They’ll rot out in the water.” Spence was scratching his head wondering what to do about this problem. They could dowel the boards in to place, but they wouldn’t hold up well in the tough, harsh river conditions.

Gilbert Laughton, who had been quietly listening, spoke up after the last remark. “I’ll take care of the metal works for the boat, including the nails. I have something in mind.”

“Then it’s settled men. Work all winter on three prototypes. John can you draw? If so, draw up a plan for the carpenters on what you want.”

“I will, Sir. Can I watch and help build them too?”

“Yes, of course, John. You’re now the chief architect of the project. But here’s how I want them built. The first two boats must each have different siding and hull configurations, and the third one…” He talked quietly to his men laying out his instructions, as if someone might overhear them. When he finished they all stared at him, wondering if he had already been drinking to come up with such an idea.

“And not a word about any of this to anyone. Especially those Canadian buggers across the way.”

His men looked at him questionably about construction of the last boat. “Are sure that’s wise Peter? Doesn’t that kind of defeat the purpose?” Then Fidler filled in his men why he wanted the last boat built that way. “It’s time to fight back men. And, this is as good an opportunity as any to do it.”

When he finished the men left happy enough, but still scratching their heads over his last request. Wondering what happened to that usually non-violent nature of his.

Hand-forged brass or copper alloy nails found at the Hudson’s Bay Company Fort Edmonton (c.1830 – 1915). More rust-resistant and likely used for construction of York boats which became a primary industry at this fort.

Buckingham House, Early Spring, 1797

1797, Edmonton House, April 24th.
Dear Sir [Peter Fidler], The backwardness of the spring will very much retard the building of canoes and consequently will occasion a late embarkation….The river ice has given way opposite the house, but remains fast both above and below yet the water falloff fast. Send up all the men with the craft except the canoe builders. I will dispatch twenty men in the four canoes here as soon as the river ice gives way with what furs and provisions they can take. If the boats are finished Nichol Spence, boatbuilder, may come up the first trip as he is to summer here, he being unfit for the passage, and John Moor goes down with the boats in case of accidents; let him keep what tools he thinks will be necessary for the passage. Send up all the plank cut for boats by the boats as that article will be difficult to get at this place. The canoes can take all the trading goods and stores. If you have any spare line for tying bundles I beg you to send it as we are short of that article here.Wishing you better success I am yours etc. G.S. (Parts of a letter to Peter Fidler, Buckingham House, from George Sutherland, Edmonton House; HBCA B.60/a/2, 1796-97; brackets mine)

Peter Fidler stood in the boat yard at the back of the fort. It was well concealed from prying Canadian eyes by a six-foot high partition fence. Over their heads was a wide, long roof attached to high poles, open on the sides, under which the men could work without getting snowed on and sheltered from the wind. Beside him in pits dug in the ground, the shape of a large canoe, sat their freight canoes also under repair. The pits kept the shape of the boats and the birch rind moist, preventing it from cracking.

“They look marvelous men. But will they do the job?” Fidler ran his eyes down the long, sleek wooden boats. Two boats were finished and the third one nearly finished.

John Davey looked up, a big grin on his face. As if this was the best work he had ever done.

“They’re great, Sir. It was challenging work. But so much fun. I feel now I could build one by myself.”

“Tell me a little more about them, John. What’s the main difference in them, from the ones on the Bay?”

“Well Sir, this one here is the biggest. But nowhere’s as big as some of the Bay boats. It measures forty feet from end to end, is slightly less than four feet deep and eight feet across at the beam. It’s clinker-built and the bottom is nearly flat. Both ends are nicely raked so it should be easy to get off the rocks and sand bars. I figure this one could float over three tons of cargo.” Davey beamed, stroking his boat, as he spoke.

“This one here looks almost the same, John?”

“This differs mostly in size. It’s only thirty feet long, three feet deep, and about six-and-one-half feet at the beam. And the planking on the sides are the carvel type. It makes a very smooth hull, giving it less resistance in a strong current. However, while this boat is strong enough, it’s not nearly as strong as the other. It carries less cargo but works better in shallow rivers.”

Spence looked up from his work. “The keels were difficult to make, Sir. We carved them out of tamarack, the hardest, most rot-resistant wood there is in this country. Here, Sir, put your ear on the end of the keel. And give me your watch.”

Fidler did so and then Spence put the pocket watch on the other end of the keel. A surprised Fidler answered. “I can hear the ticking of my watch, Spence, from way down here. It resonates through the wood.”

“But, not through any wood, Sir. Only the soundest, strongest wood will do that. The keel has to put up with tremendous punishment. If it isn’t sound, the boat won’t last.”

Then Fidler turned to the last boat still under construction. “And, I presume this one’s for our Canadian friends. Looks even smaller and not as well built.”

Davey nodded in agreement. “It will do what you requested within an hour of being put in the water. It’s all about the planking and the bottom of the boat.”

“Well done men. Finish the last one before the ice breaks up and starts moving and then we’ll put our plan into action.” They all smiled at what was about to happen.

“But, Peter. We need to name them. That’s the proper thing to do. Do you have any suggestions?” Spence waited expectantly as Fidler mulled over some names for the boats.

“OK. I think I have it. This first big one here, we’ll name Explorer. The second smaller one Chance.”

The men waited for the last name. Fidler was thinking, then suddenly smiled. “This men will be the new motto for the Canadians.” Then he whispered the name of the boat to his men. They all laughed at the name, shaking their heads. A perfect name for their last boat.

………………………

This reconstructed York boat sits on display at Fort Edmonton Park, Edmonton, Alberta. The fort was a major boat builder for the Saskatchewan brigades for many years.

Samuel barged into Fidler’s quarters, all out of breath. “The ice is moving, Sir. If the weather holds, in two or three days we can launch.”

“Good Samuel. Tell the men to prepare to move the boats down the creek ravine to the river. It’s all downhill and with the snow they will slide easy enough. Make sure the boats are well tied so they don’t get away on you. Remember, that’s about a ton of boat there and when it starts moving downhill, it will be hard to stop.”

“Yes, Sir. We’ll prepare everything for departure. The men are ready. They know what to do and how to handle these boats. They were brought up with them. Some were probably born in them.”

Fidler simply nodded as Samuel left. Beside him sat his blacksmith, and also occasionally gunsmith, Gilbert Laughton. An indispensable man at these frontier forts. Who was admiring one of his fancy twisted ornate hand-forged nails, fresh out of the forge. The two men were drinking, talking about the trade and the welfare of the Company. And their plans to get their furs to York Factory.

“Do you think they’ll take the bait, Peter? They might get suspicious about our motives and tactics.” He looked over at Fidler, waiting for a reply.

“Oh, they’ll take the bait alright. They’re down by the river right now getting ready to embark as soon as the ice leaves. After all that bullshit they’ve been fed about a special bonus for the first furs to Europe from the Colonies this year, they’ll bite. They’re a greedy bunch of heartless bastards, when it comes right down to it. Thought of only wealth dulls one’s wits, my friend.”

Laughton looked at Fidler. A crafty man. But hardly a violent man. Or, was he? Whatever had drawn him to come up with something like this? And, if his plan ever worked, would the Canadians forgive him? Probably not. They would hound him in the trade for the rest of his days. “Well, it’s not my problem Peter, but you sure know how to make enemies.”

“It can’t get any worse than this, Laughton. Can it?

………………….

Angus Shaw, chief trader in charge of the North West Company’s Fort George, stood down by the river overseeing preparations for departure for Montreal. As soon as that damn ice clears out, we’ll be off. If we’re to beat the HBC, he thought. Then he heard a peculiar noise. Coming from up above. A high pitched screeching sound, as if someone was raking their nails over glass. Then the yelling and hollering. Laughing, cursing and everything in between.

He looked over towards the creek above them and there before his very eyes, out from the ravine shot a large wooden boat, skidding smoothly on the snow and ice towards the water. He couldn’t believe what he was seeing.

John McDonald, standing beside him, turned and looked the same direction. Then he saw it too. A fully laden boat with enormous oars sliding swiftly towards the river. “What in the hell is that…?”

But before he could finish his sentence, another one appeared behind it. And then another. The Canadians stood transfixed on the banks of the river as the HBC men made preparations to launch the boats into the river.

“Angus, they can’t go out into that bloody current and ice. It’ll tear them apart. It’s too dangerous. They’ll all die.”

Shaw was now fully beginning to realize what was happening and the implications it had on the trade. “You mean John, we can’t go out there with those flimsy birch bark freight canoes. That ice would crush them like an eggshell. There would be nothing left within minutes.”

“Angus, do you know what this means? They’ll get to York Factory faster and back to Europe to collect that bonus. We’ll lose, if we don’t stop them.”

“And how do you propose to do that, John? Look, they’ve already launched one boat and the second one is ready to go. It’s too late to stop them.”

Then McDonald saw it. The third boat was empty and simply stowed near the edge of the river, but not launched. A few men were looking after it. Shaw saw it too and both men looked knowingly at one another. “Tonight John, we’ll take that one and follow them. And then plan some mischief to stop them before they get too far ahead of us.”

Both men scurried toward their voyageurs and told them their plan. Meanwhile the other voyageurs were watching in awe as the large York boats went bobbing down the river, loaded with furs and crew. Soon they disappeared from sight.

That night John McDonald of Garth took nine of his most ruthless voyageurs down to the water. They threatened the HBC men guarding the last boat, who seemed to run away without much resistance.

“Cowards. Those Orkneymen have no backbone whatsoever. Right, Pierre. Now get this hulk into the water and chase them down. Destroy their boats, if you can. Quickly before they get too far ahead of you.”

“But, Sir. The men are a little leery about whether these things can float. They much prefer the canoes. And Sir, what’s the name of this boat written on the bow? I can’t seem to read it.”

McDonald stared at the writing. He couldn’t read it either. “Just another stupid Latin motto of theirs. Who cares.” McDonald was getting upset with the delay.

“Now get in the goddamned boat and follow them, or I’ll dock you a year’s pay, Pierre. A bonus for you and your men, if you catch them. Load this boat with furs. We might as well use this opportunity to move some of them downriver. We’ll follow you in our canoes as soon as the ice stops running. Good luck.”

Pierre reluctantly obeyed McDonald. Within an hour the York boat was loaded and they pushed off in pursuit of the HBC brigade. McDonald’s last words, however, kept ringing in his ears as the fort disappeared from site. “Good luck.” He sincerely hoped it wouldn’t come to that.

June 18, 1797, Sunday. Arrived at the Great Rapid, where we took out all the furs, and shot down the rapid without injuring the boats or canoes. Indeed the boats seems to exceed even my utmost expectations on the falls as they did not ship any water, although the waves ran very high. (The journal of George Sutherland, Grand Rapids; HBCA B.60/a/2)

York Fort, Early Summer, 1797

This York boat still floating at Norway House in the early 1930s. Most craft had eight rowers and one steersman. The largest of these craft were capable of carrying six tons. (Image from Mary Bruce (1929-32), Norway House).

I cannot help expressing my satisfaction at the probable advantages the honourable Company are likely to reap from the use of boats in this quarter. The easy draught of water, the facility with which we have brought them from Edmonton House to this place – a distance of 1200 miles  – the cargoes they are likely to carry up to from whence they came etc. (Journal of George Sutherland, Gordon House; HBCA B.60/a/2)

Going down rapids with the boats was easy. The hard part was hauling a heavy York boat through shallow waters back up the rivers; as in this photograph somewhere between Norway House and York Factory. Despite their shallow draft, by the end of the summer, some places on the rivers were very shallow and it took a lot of work to move the large boats along. (HBCA Collections).

Samuel Wegg stood on the shore and watched the spectacle unfold before him on the Hayes River. Two fully loaded wooden boats, now under sail were gliding toward him. They were beautiful and reminded him of the larger Viking craft he had read about and saw in illustrations. Even though they were fully loaded they sat high in the water. Now sitting behind their oars were eight men resting while the boat was under sail. Each man sat on the opposite side of the boat from where the long oars dipped into the water. Behind them came more lightly loaded canoes. The Saskatchewan brigade had finally arrived. Peter Fidler had returned.

York boat under sail.

Once Fidler landed, Wegg approached him. “You did very well, Peter. And, you’re early. Very impressive. Those are beautiful craft. Much better designed for the rivers than our Bay vessels. You must have very gifted boat builders to make those.”

“Thank you, Sir. They work well enough. There are still some things that need to be improved upon but in time we will have the right craft for the right conditions.”

“But these boats are heavy. How did you manage at the portages?”

“Coming down the rapids was easy. When we go back up the rapids, we put them on log rollers. And then with ropes and pulleys we haul them over the portage trails. Hard work, but we have enough men. So, there’s no need to unload everything. Not really any more work than with the freight canoes when you think about it.”

“And I see you can sail them when the wind is right?”

“That’s probably one of really big advantages, Sir. Not only can we sail them, but we can cross the larger lakes under rougher conditions than with the freight canoes. They have such a wide beam, they are very stable, even when fully loaded. We can carry three tons of goods on that big one, Sir. And these Orkney ‘river rats‘ are well suited to man them.”

Wegg only nodded, now seemingly in deep thought. Then he produced a paper from his jacket. “That’s all good, Peter. I think these craft are exactly what we need inland to move our goods and reduce our costs.”

Fidler looked at the paper in Wegg’s hands. It was a letter. “Sir, is something wrong? You look a little perplexed.”

“Here read this letter, Peter. It just came recently from one of the inland NWC masters by special courier canoe. You know, those really fast ones. It seems there was some trouble out west, near your fort.”

Fidler took the letter and began to read. After he finished he simply smiled.

“Care to explain Peter. There are some very pissed off people in Montreal. It seems they lost a third of their furs in one of the craft they claim you built for them. Similar to these two. Four men still missing, and the other five managed to get back to the fort, barely. All furs on board lost.”

“Well, yes, Sir. We built a third prototype York boat and left it by the river. Intending on using it later. But it really wasn’t for the Canadians. Unless they chose to steal it of course. They must have capsized or were crushed by the ice. These things happen occasionally, Sir.”

“Well that’s not what the survivors claim, Peter. They said suddenly after about an hour the boat sprang leaks everywhere and began to fall apart. Then it sank before anyone could get it safely to shore.” Wegg looked at Fidler, waiting for a reply.

“Sir, I guess we forgot to tell the Canadians the name of the third prototype. It was written right on the sides of the bow. Maybe they might not have taken it. But those Canadians can’t read it seems. That big boat you see, we named Explorer, and the second, Chance.”

“And what was the name of this last boat the Canadians manned?”

“Oh, well, Sir. That one we named the Collabefio. We gave it a Latin name after the Canadians made fun of the Company’s Latin motto.”

Wegg thought for a moment, then burst into laughter. “And it bloody worked well, didn’t it Peter. ‘Sink Together’, I believe, in Latin. Sank like a stone. And, you got back at those Canadians constantly tormenting you. You truly have great boat builders.”

“The best, Sir. And I might add that we need more, if we are going to make inroads on our competition.”

Wegg nodded in full agreement. “Hopefully not to build more ‘sinkers’, Peter?” He chuckled as he again viewed the sleek boats in front of him, sliding his hand over the prow of Explorer. These craft could change their fortunes.

“Come Peter, let the men unload the craft and tell me more about these boats and the trade over some brandy. Before Nancy gets her hooks into you. I hope to hell this deed with the Canadians doesn’t follow you around for the rest of your days. You’ve made some powerful enemies my friend. But, also some powerful friends.”

With that Wegg clapped Fidler on the back and the two men strolled toward the Governor’s quarters, talking about the quality of this year’s furs.

……………………….

Image of a York boat at Fort Garry, Manitoba, Canada, showing the rather massive size of some of these craft.

End Notes

Many of my stories are about things. Objects. Material culture. This story’s primary focus is the object, this time the HBC’s York boat. The object drives the story, and not solely the individual, Peter Fidler. It’s not like: “This is Peter Fidler and here’s what he did. By the way, this is the York boat he helped build.” The object is not just some sidebar to the narrative. It is a very important part of the narrative.

We all think we control material culture. We invent things for our use. And, to a point we do. But, would we truly be living and acting the way we do if the automobile had not been invented? Or the airplane? Or, the smart phone? Once the genie is let out of the bottle, it begins to control our lives. Sometimes in ways we had not expected.

My story about the York boat is no different. Introduction of this craft, at a time when the HBC was struggling to compete with their rivals the Canadian-based North West Company, may have been one of those ‘game changers’ in the western Canadian fur trade. It affected the Company’s operations in many ways.

Archaeologists did find canoe-shaped pits at Buckingham House, either to build and/or store canoes in them. Gilbert Laughton did make some very ornate looking hand-forged nails at Buckingham House. Some with twisted shanks. Perhaps deliberately so they wouldn’t loosen in the wood when driven home. Perhaps the man was just bored.

The debate is still out where the first York boats were built on the Saskatchewan. Some believe at Edmonton House, in 1795-96. Others believe at Buckingham House in 1796-97. Bateaus (a flat-bottomed boat with raked bow and stern and flaring sides) did exist at Edmonton House in 1796. But were they the same as the boats built by Fidler’s men at Buckingham House? Which eventually became the York boats used on the Saskatchewan River and elsewhere?

Peter Fidler’s struggles and quarrels with the NWC are not imagined. We don’t need to conjure up too much violence and harassment when writing about the competition between the Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company. It was real enough and happened in epic in proportions. The men of the two Companies often behaved like bad, immature children.

The idea for this story didn’t come from what Fidler did in the 1790s, which in itself was quite remarkable. Successful explorer, surveyor, mapmaker and trader. It was what bad fortunes befell him in the early nineteenth century before he finally retired in 1821 that started the idea for this story. It seemed, from reading his journals, he went from one calamity to another, mostly at the expense of the North West Company.

So, what did Fidler do that was so bad as to be harassed and hounded by the Canadians for the next fifteen years? Was he just in the wrong place at the wrong time, badly outnumbered by his Canadian foes? With often poor support from the Hudson’s Bay Company? Or, was there something else? For more details, here’s a link to Peter Fidler’s biography describing some of those encounters.

Whatever the case, the only real blow that Peter Fidler dealt the North West Company was helping introduce the York boat on the Saskatchewan River. He helped solve one of the many logistical nightmares the Company faced early on in the Canadian northwest.

It is therefore perhaps fitting to end this story with this massive wooden statue of Peter Fidler erected by the community of Elk Point. In memory of one of Canada’s ‘forgotten surveyors and map makers’.

Wooden statue in honor of Peter Fidler, Elk Point, Alberta, Canada, taking a reading with his sextant. With some of his known descendants standing in the foreground.

There’s No More Grist for Our Mill

In Western Canada, early fur trade fort inhabitants relied mostly on large amounts of wild game meat for their food. By the 1840’s, the Hudson’s Bay Company Fort Edmonton grew enough grain to make flour. Occasionally, when the crops and the game failed, times got real tough at many of these forts. Especially in the north. Photograph of reconstructed Fort Edmonton with the grist mill in the background (courtesy of the City of Edmonton Archives, EA-207-325).

Fort Wedderburn, Lake Athabasca, Athabasca District, Spring, 1821

George Simpson sat at his rough, crudely made wooden table carefully composing his letter to the shareholders of the Hudson’s Bay Company in London. Also, carefully balancing himself on his rickety chair with the one leg shorter than the others. His breath came out in short puffs, it was so cold in the little log cabin facing the large expanse of frozen lake. The fire was roaring in the hearth, barely keeping the little room warm. He wrote quickly so the ink wouldn’t freeze on the tip of his goose quill pen.

He glanced up at his clerk, William, who was patiently waiting for his new governor to finish the letter, so he could pack it with the other dispatches on the canoe brigades to York Factory. And then off to London by ship. William usually wrote the dispatches for Simpson, but not this time. This matter was much too important for a mere clerk to undertake.

William already recognized that look on the new governor’s face. Simpson was in a foul mood, shaking his head and writing furiously. “This nonsense must stop William. The Native women are important to the trade, both in their knowledge of the country, their work, and the alliances they form when they enter marriages with the men of the trade.”

“But those morons in London don’t seem to understand this simple fact. They insist we not support women at our inland posts. Imbeciles. All of them.”

He leaned over his letter and wrote some more. “How does this sound William?”:

“Connubial alliances are the best security we can have of the good will of the natives. I have therefore recommended the Gentlemen to form connections with the principal families immediately on their arrival, which is no difficult matter, as the offer of their Wives and Daughters is the first token of their friendship and hospitality.” (Parts of a letter sent by George Simpson to the London Committee of the Hudson’s Bay Company, May 15, 1821)

He looked up at William, as if waiting for approval of his work. Then he smiled. Somehow it always felt good when you could vent by writing. “Anyway, what can they do in London to stop us if we dearly need the help of women to be successful in the trade? How will they ever find out?”

William wasn’t about to argue with his new master. Even if he had a contrary opinion. Which he didn’t. Simpson had a long memory when someone crossed him.

“It sounds fine, Sir. I’ll make sure it’s sent out with the spring brigades once the ice goes out.”

“That’ll be all then, William. I need some rest. This business with the women saps the energy out of me.”

As William left and closed the governor’s door behind him, he thought to himself. If you didn’t stay up all night entertaining those ‘bits of brown’, as you call them, perhaps you wouldn’t feel so tired. He shook his head and went to his quarters. He would send an additional note along with Simpson’s letter to one of Simpson’s staunchest supporters among the shareholders. A Sir Arthur Meddlock. Chairman of the board. All hell would break loose when this issue came up at the London Committee meeting.

………………………

“…we have it in contemplation to make up the Clothes principally at this place and at the English Establishments which….would reduce the Expense very materially as the labour would actually cost nothing it being the duty of the Women at the different Posts to do all that is necessary in regard to Needle Work.” (HBC, Minutes of Council Northern Department of Rupert Land, 1821-22)

London, England, December, 1821

The shareholders met in the enormous hall, in London, England to discuss the Honorable Company’s business in the Colonies. They were some of the most powerful men of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and England, which was now preparing to monopolize the Canadian fur trade in North America. After just recently amalgamating with their Canadian rival, the North West Company.

But tonight, instead of celebrating their achievement, there was strife and tension in the air. Not everyone was happy. In fact, a few were livid.

One of the Company shareholders, a Sir Jeremy Jacobs, was shouting at Sir Arthur Meddlock. Jacobs was young, opinionated and often quite brazen at these meetings. In short, mostly full of himself.

“Why, in the name of the King of bloody England, Mr. Meddlock, must we feed and support these women at our inland posts? They’re a burden to us and only reduce our bloody profits. Yet, you sit there nonchalantly as if it really doesn’t matter.” He waited for Meddlock to respond. There was only silence.

So, he continued. “The Company men were strictly forbidden to support the Indian population at the inland forts. But, from what I hear, they ignore these instructions at every turn. How could that Simpson recommend such a thing? He, of all people, should know better. Perhaps we should look for another Governor to run this most honorable enterprise.” Jacobs spat out these last words in Meddlock’s face. A face which was becoming increasingly crimson by the second.

Meddlock, as Chair of these sometimes rowdy meetings, always the diplomat and man of control, was beginning to lose his patience with the young, brash Jacobs.

“It can’t be stopped Sir Jacobs. I’ve been informed by the Governor that the women are necessary to carry out the Company’s business and comfort the men. Without them our operations simply wouldn’t work.”

Another shareholder piped up. ” Necessary? Necessary to warm their beds, you mean. And I hear Simpson is the worst of the lot. They’re beginning to call him the ‘father’ of the fur trade. And, for good reason. He’s lost count of the number of children he’s sired from so many different Native women.”

“These women cost us an arm and a leg and then produce offspring who then cost us even more. And what are we going to do with all these people? We can’t employ them all. This must stop Mr. Chairman. Before it really gets out of hand.”

“With all due respect Sir Franklin, it can’t be stopped. If we stopped it, we would never recruit another man to work in the Colonies. And our fort operations would suffer considerably. Instead, I propose we formally indenture the women and officially put them to work, which they already do, to help our operations.”

As soon as Meddlock uttered these words, all hell broke out again in the great hall. Most were opposed. Some were convinced that Simpson was right. “Stop. Enough. Order, or I’ll adjourn this meeting.” Finally, the Chair managed to regain order.

Franklin however, was not finished. “Sir, let me get this right. Are you suggesting we put these women and children on the books?”

“That’s exactly what I’m suggesting. That’s what Simpson wants. In that way we can better manage the trade and the costs instead of simply ignoring them. That’s Simpson’s plan.”

Again there was an uproar. Jacobs was now standing. Approaching Meddlock and pointing accusingly at him. Becoming more threatening and menacing every moment.

“This is sheer lunacy, Meddlock. It must be stopped. I demand it be stopped. I think you’re in league with that scoundrel Simpson.”

“Sir Jacobs. Keep your confounded wig on man,” the chairman shouted out. “Enough already. It seems we are divided on this topic. Any suggestions as to how to proceed?” No one answered. Most were too busy fuming, not thinking.

Meddlock, now having regained his composure looked around the room and then calmly spoke. The room fell silent. “Then I have one. One or two of you go to the Colonies and spend a year in the interior to observe the situation. Then report back to this committee so we can make an informed decision. It seems Mr. Simpson’s opinion alone is insufficient on this matter.”

Suddenly, heads dropped, eyes turned to the floor, and human bodies shrank, no longer puffed up, but becoming smaller. Trying their best to make themselves as inconspicuous as possible. No one volunteered.

Meddlock looked into the eyes of Jacobs, still standing, a finger pointing, frozen like a statue in front of him. Jacobs felt suddenly exposed, realizing too many eyes were looking at him.

“Jacobs! You seem to be most opposed in this matter. What say you? Want to join Simpson in the Colonies for a year? It would do you some good. Give you a whole new perspective.”

Jacobs only sputtered. Thinking of how this could possibly do him any good. He really didn’t want a new perspective. “Sir, I couldn’t leave my family, my business and spend my time with those savages out there. Impossible, Sir. Quite impossible.” With that Jacobs turned and looked around for other volunteers. Hoping, almost pleading that someone else would raise their hand. No one did. A few members had already quietly slipped out of the room.

“Well Jacobs since you only wish to argue and shout, but not gain new information, maybe we should just put the matter to a vote, and stop all this nonsense.” Meddlock again watched as the hall turned into an uproar. Only now a number of shareholders were in Jacobs’ face telling him, imploring him, even threatening him, to go to Canada and gather information.

Jacobs’ pride, now at stake, looking quite defeated, finally succumbed. After all, he was the most vocal one in the group. He gathered his courage, and then looked defiantly into Meddlock’s eyes. “Alright Sir. I’ll bloody go and see why we need these people at our posts.” With those words a loud cheer went up in the hall. From the usually very ‘proper and reserved’ English gentlemen. Many came by to pat Jacobs on the back and congratulate him on his decision. Mostly glad that they weren’t the ones going. Jacobs simply nodded. Wondering what the hell he had just gotten himself into.

Arthur Meddlock looked calmly on, thinking. This one has more guts than I thought. Young. Rich. Independent. But still willing to go on a journey that most men of his stature would shy away from. Well, we’ll see Sir Jeremy Jacobs, what it is you’re really made of.

“Well, the matter’s settled then. We’ll postpone a vote on this issue until we hear back from Sir Jacobs.” With that the Chairman pounded his gavel hard on the table. The meeting was officially adjourned. And the dining and wining soon began.

…………………………..

Fort Vermilion, Athabasca District, Canada, Fall, 1822

“…a petty post erected on the north bank of the river, and so completely embossomed in the woods, that we did not catch a glimpse of it until we were among huts, and surrounded by howling dogs and screeching children. At this sylvan retreat there were but three rude houses…and there was not a picket or palisade to guard them from either savage or bear. This mean abode was dignified with the name of fort.” (HBC Fort Assiniboine, 1825, Alexander Ross)

The Hudson’s Bay Company’s McLeod Fort (c.1879), constructed in the interior of British Columbia. The words, ‘Fort Misery’ was clearly written over the front door of this fort building (bottom right photograph). Many of these forts were not exactly what people today envision a fort should look like.

They landed their canoes on the banks of the Peace River in front of Fort Vermilion. Jacobs looked up the bank searching for any signs of a fort. His back was killing him. His ass was numb from sitting endless hours in the large freight canoe.

“Well Lafleur, where is it? The fort?”

“Just up the bank, Sir.” Again Jacobs looked frantically for the fort. He stood to get a better look and then tried to get out of the freight canoe. He almost fell face first into the Peace River, only to be rescued just in time by one of the French Canadians. Someone smacked him on the back as he scrambled up the muddy, steeply sloped bank.

“Welcome to Fort Vermilion, Sir. One of the mightiest forts on the Peace River. Actually, one of the few forts on the river. Isn’t she a sight to behold.”

Jacobs, now standing on the top of the bank, simply stared. There before him stood a few crude log shanties, surrounded by a solid wood picket fence of some sort. About the height of a man. These were certainly not fort walls. With no bastions or blockhouses. No galleries. No cannons. Suddenly a pack of barking dogs and screaming children ran by nearly knocking him over. Going where? He didn’t know.

“You call this a fort, LaFleur? Christ, you’re joking? This is the servants’ quarters, right? Where’s the real fort?” He looked imploringly at LaFleur. Hoping that the man was only pulling his leg.

“No Sir. This is it. This is where you’ll be living until next spring. Isn’t it lovely. Cozy even. Wouldn’t you think. I’m sure a little below a man of your stature, Sir Jacobs. But it works well, when the temperatures drop to minus forty below Fahrenheit.”

Jacobs looked at LaFleur incredulously. “Forty below Fahrenheit? You’re kidding me my friend, right?”

“No. No joke. The temperature, she drop low in this country, in the winter. Keeps everything frozen and fresh. I saw once where the mercury, she disappear in the bottom of the thermometer.” He chuckled as if this was some kind of joke.

Jacobs simply stared at the French Canadian. This entire trip had been one big nightmare since he left England. First he puked his guts out coming over the Atlantic Ocean to York Factory, in that rolling Company tub called a ‘ship’. Then, sitting in a canoe for endless miles. Traveling up the rivers and lakes, swatting swarms of mosquitoes so thick you could hit them with a paddle, and knock hundreds out of the air with one stroke. What the fuck was he doing out here anyway? In this god-forsaken wilderness.

“Come. I show you to your living quarters. Only about five below zero in there in the winter. Cozy. Near the fire, it’s much better. Your feet thaw, and you’re ass freezes. But if you turn often enough, it’s quite nice. Don’t fall asleep though. Either your ass or mouth will freeze shut.” At this bit of humor, after he looked at the expression on Jacobs’ face, he broke out in fits of laughter.

Hé, Henry, ce nouveau est sur le point de vivre le temps de sa vie. (Heh, Henry, this new one is about to experience the time of his life.)” The two men roared with laughter, leaving a poor Sir Jacobs perplexed, scared and clearly shaken. Then they grabbed his belongings and took him to his quarters. After seeing them he was even more shaken.

……………………….

April 6th, 1822. “The advantages of this place are very few over any other except it is that ground is tilled for our gardens and being a critical place for the Natives to bring their find.” (HBCA B.224/e/1)

April 7th, 1822. “The disadvantages rise from the exhausted state of the country in larger animals which renders it very difficult to procure fresh meat upon which the people of the establishments have been hitherto chiefly fed.” (Report of the establishment of For Vermilion (Peace River) Athabasca Department, 1822/23 by Colin Campbell) (HBCA B.224/e/1)

Trader, Colin Campbell and his family sat around the supper table and watched their new guest as he stared at the food on his plate. Sir Jacobs, it seemed, was somewhat reluctant to tuck in and eat his meal.

“If you don’t mind me asking Mr. Campbell, what exactly is this on my plate?” Jacobs kept eyeing his meat. Poking it with his fork but not quite ready to give it a go. Wondering if it might jump off his plate.

“Well, you’re in for a treat tonight, Jacobs. Potatoes and turnips from the gardens. And one of the hunters brought in a lynx. That’s lynx meat. The finest there ever was.” Campbell waited expectantly as Jacobs took a fork full. Finally, putting it slowly in his mouth. Wincing as he did so.

Suddenly he beamed. Surprised. “Why it’s quite good, Campbell. Very delicate and a fine flavor. I never would have thought a member of the cat family could taste this good. How did you come upon it, if I may ask?” He looked expectantly at his host for an answer.

“Natives, Sir Jacobs. They know what’s good to eat and what’s not. If we didn’t have them around, we’d be lost.” Jacobs simply nodded making a mental note.

Jacobs, quite intrigued by his host’s last comment, wanted to know more. “Surely Campbell, you and your men can hunt. No need to hire these savages to hunt for you? Is there?”

Campbell, after stuffing another potato in his mouth, looked at his guest. Thinking. Well can’t blame him for thinking like that. I was no better when I first came out. Wait. Until it gets really tough. Then he’ll realize what I’m talking about.

Campbell responded with a more leveled answer to Jacobs’ question. “Hunting in this land is very hard, especially in the winter. The wild game has been almost decimated over the many years from feeding our people. If you don’t know what you’re doing out there, you could die hunting.”

“And that lynx, Sir Jacob. That you’re eating. I’ll bet you won’t even see one, let alone get a shot at it, before you leave next spring. They’re extremely cagey and hard to trap, let alone shoot.”

Campbell’s Metis wife, Elizabeth, looked up at at her husband, then at Jacobs, wondering why this man was even here. Elizabeth recognized arrogance when she saw it. And this man, Jacobs, absolutely dripped of it. But she didn’t say anything, keeping her peace. It was not what you said about the north to convince someone. It’s what the land did to you when you lived in it, that did the talking. It touched your very soul. Your very being. Occasionally letting you know that your life hung on a thread. He would soon come to realize these things.

…………………….

Hard Times Ahead, November, 1822

“So, Roy, how’s the harvest looking? How are our meat supplies holding up?”

Roy stirred and fidgeted not wanting to really answer his superior’s question. Because he might not like what he was about to hear. Finally, after Colin Campbell wouldn’t stop gazing at him, he reluctantly spoke up.

“We’ve had a bad harvest, Sir. The potatoes got an early frost and yielded little. The wheat, oats and barely were almost totally destroyed by locusts. We have little grist to feed our mill, to make flour for bannock. The game animals, what’s left of them, this year are poor, because of a hard winter last year. Sir, I don’t know if we’ll make it to spring. Unless the wild game picks up or we send our hunters further out. If the fisheries work this winter, maybe there’s a chance.”

“Then trade for more meat with the Natives.”

“Sir. They’re no better off than we are. Just barely able to make it themselves. I’m afraid this winter could be a bad one. We must ration carefully, and with any luck, we might survive until spring.”

Campbell looked concerned. By now he knew this country well enough. And when it decided to treat you cruelly, you more often then not, paid a high price. It was sometimes like this. The perfect storm. Both the crops and wild game populations failed. And then you prayed. For a miracle. But he realized those, like food, were in also in short supply in northern Canada. It seemed as if God wasn’t listening too well up here. No matter how loud and hard they prayed.

“Is there anything else we can do before winter sets in, Roy?”

Roy only shook his head. Then he hesitated before going on. “The women, Sir. They might be able to help. And a strange thing, Sir. They all left.”

Campbell looked at Roy, a little alarmed, waiting for more information. “Where to Roy? Where in the hell did they go this time of the year? Everything is nearly frozen up.”

“Out to the lakes and marshes behind us, Sir. They set up a camp there. My woman says they will stay there for at least two weeks. Or, until everything freezes up.”

At Roy’s words, Campbell became really alarmed. The women sensed this was going to be a tough winter. Disaster awaited them unless they acted. Now. He didn’t ask Roy any further questions. The women knew what to do when times got tough. If the game animals failed, their flour wouldn’t last until spring. The women knew this too. Maybe that’s why they left.

……………………

It was snowing hard. Campbell came into Jacob’s quarters, quickly slamming the door behind him, trying to keep the freezing cold out, and dusting off the fresh snow from his coat. A fire was blazing in the fireplace and there sat Jacobs with his boots almost in it. Trying to thaw out his frozen toes. He had been out at the hunter’s tents and had just come back. He was exhausted and incredibly cold. It was one of those stormy late December evenings. Everything outside snapped and crackled it was so cold.

Campbell looked at Jacobs’ feet. “Christ, Jacobs. You can’t be wearing those stupid leather boots this time of year. You’ll freeze your toes off, man.”

“I think it’s too late Colin. They might fall off any second now. How can you stand it out in this cold?” Finally the shivering Jacobs got his boots off, but it took some time before he could feel his toes again.

Mary, one of the young Chipewyan women who was looking after Jacobs looked at his toes and then his boots. Bad. Very bad. What a foolish Englishman. They all were when they first came to this country. Trying to look the ‘proper gentlemen’ in those foolish clothes. Who were they trying to impress anyway? The moose?

She looked at Jacobs with concern. “Here Sir. Put these on.” She produced a beautiful pair of moose hide moccasins that nearly reached his knees. They were lined with fur and wool blanket, and double-soled. “These will keep your feet from freezing.”

Jacobs took the moccasins from her and pulled them on. He sighed in relief. Ah, yes. Oh, that felt so good. “Mary, these are wonderful. You made them?”

“Yes, Sir. We make all the clothing for the men and children. Or they would freeze to death in the winter.” Jacobs simply stared at her and then at his new footwear. At the intricate stitching, the beautiful bead work. And, slowly it dawned on him why the women were so necessary at these god-forsaken, ‘colder than anything he ever experienced’, so-called forts.

“And you’ll need these too.” She handed Jacobs a fine wool capote, colorful wool sash, and large fur-lined mittens. And a large fur hat. The next day he walked around outside in his new footwear and clothing feeling quite relieved and a little bit more in control of his northern surroundings.

Later that evening Jacobs dined with trader Colin Campbell and Elizabeth. Now, contented enough with his new, warm clothing.

But the meager amount of food on his plate in front of him worried him.

“Not for me to interfere, Colin, but we seem to be eating less and less as the winter wears on. I think I’ve already lost ten pounds. Is there a problem?”

Campbell, at first reluctant to confide in this English nobleman and Company shareholder, decided he should know what was going on.

“We’re near January Jacobs and already running out of food. The hunters are having a hard time finding game. I haven’t heard any news from the men at the fishery. Our grain and potato supplies are down to almost nothing. Mainly because of the bad harvest. There could be a lot of trouble ahead. Unless we find some wild game soon. As you now know, our hunters are miles away from the fort, but find little.”

When they finished their meal, both men sat in silence, sipping their brandy, letting those rather somber facts slip into reality. The fort’s inhabitants were in deep trouble.

Jacobs looked at Campbell, clearly alarmed. He liked this man. He did everything possible to keep his people safe, healthy and happy. But, a lack of food put everyone on edge. And Jacobs had found out the hard way, while at the hunters’ camp, what hunting was like in the back country. Snow up to your waist in places. Dense forests. And the eternal bitter, bitter cold. It froze your hands instantly when you removed your mittens. The equipment froze up and malfunctioned. And even sometimes the more fragile metal pieces on the muskets broke. The nearest gunsmith was over a thousand miles away.

“Well, can’t you just ask for help, Campbell? Surely others are better off than we are?”

Campbell gazed at Jacobs with only a look that someone drinking would look at a friend, who had just said something foolish. “Jeremy. What help? We are in the middle of fucking-nowhere. The nearest forts are no better off than we are. You can’t just wave your magic wand and make this all better. We could die.”

Jacobs, as only a pompous, pampered nobleman could, responded. “But that’s not possible, Colin. Surely we can buy some help.”

Campbell was about to slap his newly made friend on the side of the head, but stopped short when one his children came into the room, crying.

“Daddy, I’m hungry. Is there something to eat? Please daddy. I need something to eat.” Before she could utter another word Elizabeth swept into the room and scooped her up, carrying her away still screaming about wanting something to eat.

Jacobs looked at Campbell. “Jesus, Colin. What are we going to do? Campbell simply took another sip of his brandy. Hope, he thought. Pray. Maybe there would be some luck with the hunt. Or, maybe just wait for a slow, agonizing death.

Chipewyan moccasins. Lined with fur or Hudson’s Bay Company wool blankets, to keep the cold out. Often beautifully embroidered with colorful glass bead work: “…the only tailors and washer women in the country, and make all the mittens, moccasins, fur caps, deer skin coats, etc., etc., worn in the land. (Explorer Robert Ballantyne, talking about the role of Metis women at the Hudson’s Bay Company forts, 1840)
The Hudson’s Bay Company blanket became much more than just a blanket used for sleeping. It furnished First Nations and Metis with a strong, dense, warm material for making the winter clothing needed to survive in Northern Canada. The Canadian Capote became an essential piece of winter clothing. A truly Canadian invention and adaptation. Leggings were also made from wool blankets. Even moccasins were lined with them. The image on the left shows a Chipewyan hunter shooting a wood buffalo (painted by American, Frederick Remington). The image on the right shows a Cree hunter with his winter clothing (painted by Canadian novelist and painter, Arthur Heming).

………………………

Late March, 1823

It was a bright sunny day. Trying to make up for the temperature dropping to minus thirty degrees the night before. Most of the fort people had barely made it this far through the winter. But some of the children and a few adults got sick with the ‘chin cough’ (Whooping Cough) and died. The fort was not a happy place.

The hunters brought in just enough game to keep everyone going. The boys set snares in the forests hoping to catch some of the white hares. Potatoes, grain and dried meat were all expended. Animal fat seemed only like a far-away dream – a long-forgotten commodity. The fishery had failed.

Early spring in the northern forests was the worst time of all. What animals remained were lean and in poor condition. The hunters were sometimes too weak to even hunt them. This was the time of year when everyone suffered the most. Or died.

Times like these called for desperate measures. Colin Campbell gathered his people around him. “Break out the rough hides. Scrape the hair off them and boil them. That’s all we have to eat for a bit.” Before he said any more, Elizabeth and most of the fort women stepped up.

Jacobs, now down to skin and bones, looked on. He feared for his life. He might never see England again. But he was curious. What were the women up to?

Elizabeth spoke up. “Bring some men and follow us to the marshes. We made food supplies there last fall, in case we ran into trouble this spring. It’s time to gather them.”

Jacobs, almost too weak to walk, got up rather wobbly and followed. “I’m coming along Colin. I have to see this. What did they collect?”

“I don’t know Jeremy. We’ll see soon enough.” They followed the women up the river terraces, and into the back country. Trails led in every direction, but the women seemed to know which ones to take to get to their destination.

They finally arrived at a small, shallow lake surrounded by marsh and cattails as far as the eye could see. There beside the shore stood many low tent-like structures made out of poles, covered with bark and snow. Inside hanging on thin poles were rows and rows of cattail rhizomes. Thousands of them. Collected by the women last fall, as the ice set in.

Campbell looked at his wife questionably. “What is this Elizabeth? What are these plants?”

“They’re cattail roots, Colin. They’re well dried and frozen now. When we thaw them, we’ll pound them into flour and make Native bannock.”

Jacobs looked on having a hard time believing what he was seeing. “Elizabeth, you can eat these? They don’t look that good to me. Probably poisonous.”

“Jeremy, don’t be so foolish.” Elizabeth poked him the ribs, almost knocking him over he was so weak.

“These roots are as filling and as nutritious as potatoes. It just takes a lot more work to gather and prepare them. That’s what the women spent two weeks last fall doing up here. Up to their knees in the freezing water pulling cattails. They make a great cake over the fire. Much like bannock.”

“But how do you know this, Elizabeth?”

Elizabeth looked at Jacobs as if he were the biggest fool around. Which of course he was when it came to surviving in northern Canada. The other women giggled and broke out babbling in languages he didn’t understand. And then she softened. Like all the Whites in this country, how would he know. A pampered English nobleman would never think of eating cattails.

“We know Jeremy. What to do when times are tough. The women saw this coming last fall. That’s why the Native side of my people survived in this country for thousands of years. Because we learned and we know.”

Jacobs was suddenly jolted into a new reality and only nodded in agreement. Now, after living at this fort, with these people, it all seemed so obvious. Now that he actually lived in the country. Felt its wrath and unforgiving harshness. These women and men, possessing thousands of years of knowledge about the land, were indispensable to the Company.

He also realized, in the great fur trading halls of London, no one really knew what was needed out here. In the future they would have to listen more carefully to Simpson’s recommendations.

That evening, after hauling the cattail rhizomes back to the fort and pounding them into flour, everyone got a few mouthfuls of nutritious food. At least to make it through tomorrow and many more days.

After their meal, Campbell and Jacobs sat, sipping their brandy and smoking their pipes. Both men were somewhat contemplative. No longer so fretful. They would get through the harsh spring. And when the cattails grew again, if there was no other game, there was more food awaiting them if they needed it.

“So, Sir Jacobs. You’re ready to take the spring ice out with the brigades. And eventually back to England. What are your thoughts about the trade and this life?” Campbell had been briefed on why Jacobs had been sent inland.

“My thoughts, my friend, and my memories, will forever linger on this place and their peoples. Especially the women.” Campbell probed no more on the subject. He just knowingly smiled. With that the two men toasted with a another glass of brandy, and talked long into the night about the affairs of the Company.

Canada possesses a wealth of wild edible plants. Some of them growing right under our very noses. Bulrush, or cattail, is one of them.

Hudson’s Bay Headquarters, London, England, 1823

“Let the meeting come to order. I would like to welcome back Sir Jeremy Jacobs from the Colonies. Sir, you have something you want to share with us?”

Sir Jacobs stood, walked over to the Chairman’s table and plopped down a rather hefty report which he had written while on the ship back to England.

“It’s all in there gentlemen. Together with my recommendations regarding the Natives and the women.”

He gazed around the room and looked at the round, plump, well fed faces. And bodies. Some so portly they barely fit into their chairs. He was just beginning to regain some of the weight he had lost in Canada.

Then he picked up a large platter loaded with little flat cakes off the enormous wooden table. They were still steaming, hot off the griddle. “Before I brief you on what’s in the report, gentlemen, help yourselves to my special cakes. What I’m about to tell you will be more meaningful once you’ve tasted these.

End Notes

If you’re ever lost in our vast Canadian wilderness, with nothing to eat, there are many wild plants out there to survive on. If you know what to look for. According to Outdoor Canada, there are over 350 wild edible plants in Canada. Northern Bushcraft lists eight-four edible wild plants in Alberta. And nearly as many in Saskatchewan, Manitoba and the other Canadian provinces.

When I was at Simon Fraser University, we went on a survival field trip, trying our best to live off the land for a few days along the Pacific Coast. Not easy believe me. One of the first books I read before going was by renowned ethnobotanist Nancy J. Turner. In it she listed the edible British Columbia plants that First Nations gathered. An excellent source. Cattail rhizomes were on that list. So, of course, I tried them.

First I pulled the cattails out of the muck. Then I picked off the rhizomes, washed and baked them on low heat to dry them. I pounded, ground them into a kind of flour, added water and made a dough or paste. Once I flattened them out into little cakes, I fried them like bannock. They were quite good. And, I’m still alive. Quite nutritious actually. Very high in carbohydrates. For more information about their nutrient content, go to this page.

Cattail rhizomes (above left) contain a lot of carbohydrates. Cattail pollen (below right) can also be used as a flour and eaten. According to ethnohistoric sources, both the Slave and Chipewyan gathered these plants for food. Be sure to collect them from non-polluted waters.

The role Indigenous women played in the Canadian fur trade cannot be overestimated. Without their work and support, fur trade forts would not have been operational. But the presence and support of First Nations and Metis women, and their children, was a real sore spot with the Hudson’s Bay Company shareholders for many years. Most traders however, just ignored what was considered official Company policy – not to allow women to live at the Company forts. This continued until 1821 when the Company finally officially recognized that the trade couldn’t operate without the help of women.

The cattail bannock story underlines just how important Native traditional knowledge was for the men at these remote inland forts. Many were fresh off the boats from Britain and knew nothing about the Canadian wilderness. It also underlines the sometimes extreme conditions that prevailed at these inland posts. Hunger and starvation in the north, sometimes was just around the corner. Especially as wild game animal populations declined in a region.

While George Simpson was a great organizer and administrator, he was also a notorious womanizer. His numerous liaisons are well documented in the annals of Canadian fur trade history. But he immediately recognized that women played a very critical, important role in the trade and operation of the forts. His bluntness about such matters would have occasionally ruffled some feathers in the London halls among the Hudson’s Bay Company’s shareholders.

Wild rose found throughout Canada. The rose hips were an important source of vitamin C. An essential vitamin to stave off scurvy in the Canadian wilderness.

My Mom’s Old Blue Wooden Trunk

When my mother and I arrived in Canada, in the winter of 1954, she had to drag this wooden trunk full of her possessions, along with a two-and-one-half year old, through Canadian Customs, Pier 21, Halifax, Nova Scotia. It’s old, in bad need of a paint job, and missing some hardware. But, I can’t seem to make myself part with it. Like losing a piece of my family history.

The Iron Curtain, East Germany, 1948

She ran for her life. Stumbling in the dark, splashing through the frigid water. Muzzle flashes all around her, and bullets flying everywhere. Some coming too close for comfort. Women, young children, running with her. Trying to escape. Screaming for help. Falling. Pleading and begging the guards to let them go.

‘Lying, rotten Russian bastard. I thought after I gave him those nylon stockings and the bottle of vodka everything would be OK.’ A rarity for a young twenty-three year old Adelgunde Kleister. To swear. Finally she stopped running. Exhausted, alone, frightened out of her wits, but now at least safe in West Germany. Then she began to cry. And the reality of what she had just done hit here like a ton of bricks.

‘My family. Our farm in Poland. All gone. My father, my mother and brother. I’ll never see them again. Gone. I hope my sister made it across?’ She continued crying and sobbing as she walked slowly away from the treacherous Iron Curtain, dividing East from West. Away from a life she had known, a family she had loved. But dragging with her the heartbreak and memories that would cling to her for the rest of her life.

……………………

In West Germany, around the same time, Walter sat stunned listening to the Red Cross worker. “I’m sorry, Herr Pyszczyk. We’ve looked everywhere, checked every known record. They’ve disappeared, vanished.”

“But that’s impossible. They must be somewhere. My parents, my three sisters, gone? You just haven’t looked hard enough, damn it. You don’t care enough. I’ve lost my entire family, and you just calmly stand there and prattle on.”

The worker sighed. He had heard all of this too many times before in the last few years. “I’m so sorry, Herr Pyszczyk. But, you must understand. Millions of Germans from Poland went missing when the Russians moved west in 1944. They tried escaping, but the reports we’re getting are grim. If we find anything more about your family, we will contact you.”

The worker left Walter sitting there, now crying pitifully. Later he got very drunk. To forget. That didn’t work. Wishing the bullet that had gone through his leg in the war, had gone through his head instead. To end this nightmare. Walking aimlessly for miles through the city, looking for what? A miracle? He couldn’t go back and look for them. He had to move on.

Pier 21, Halifax, Nova Scotia, 1954

SS Arosa Kulm out of Bremerhaven, Germany, which brought us to Pier 21, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

Adelgunde pulled her large, heavy blue wooden trunk behind her toward the Canadian customs agent. Made by her friends in Stade, Germany before she departed for Canada. Heading for a new life, a new start. All her worldly possessions were in that big blue trunk. With her other hand she was holding tightly onto to her two-year old son, who was desperately trying to escape and go exploring.

Muti, Ich muss gehen. Lass mich gehen.” (Mom I want to go. Let me go.) The young Heinz was restless, after being cooped up on the SS Arosa Kulm for three weeks while crossing the Atlantic.

He started crying. Ich wollte auf dem Schiff schwimmen gehen. Aber, würden Sie mich nicht lassen.” (I wanted to go swimming on the ship. But, you wouldn’t let me.) Adelgunde, still looking a little pale, having suffered badly from sea sickness on the voyage, only sighed. On the ship they had to hang onto Heinz during the lifeboat drills because with his life vest on, he wanted to jump overboard and go swimming.

“Your passport and papers, please Ma’am.” The customs agent yawned as he unceremoniously dumped all the belongings in her trunk onto the counter. Then rummaged through them, caring little about keeping any order.

“Was sagt er Mama? Ich verstehe ihn nicht.” (What is he saying mom? I don’t understand him.)

Adelgunde looked worried. She didn’t either. Finally the custom agent took the papers out of her trembling hands and checked them.

After a somewhat lengthy appraisal, he nodded, pointed toward the doors, and strode away, leaving her pack her belongings back into the trunk.

‘Entlich. In Kanada.‘ (Finally. In Canada). And the start of her new life out west, in Saskatchewan, where Walter was already waiting.

Stade, West Germany, c.1953. Picture of my parents and myself taken just before my father left for Canada. Mom and I followed in 1954.

RCMP Security Services Headquarters, Ottawa, 1956

Police Constable, 1st Class, Frank Bettner, Royal Canadian Mounted Police Security Services, walked stiffly into Chief Superintendent Samuel Rolson’s office, saluted, then spoke.

“You wanted to see me sir? On a matter of some urgency, I understand.” Bettner calmly waited for Rolson to respond. The man seemed to be too busy writing to pay full attention to his special agent. Showing off his self-importance to Bettner, after his new promotion to Chief ‘Super’.

Rolson finally looked up. “Ah, yes Bettner. Take a seat. It’s the bloody Germans, Bettner. Out west in the Swift Current – Leader area, in Saskatchewan. More have arrived recently. They might be up to no good, Bettner. All crowded together like that out there. This could be a national security issue. Of vast importance. We can’t let those people organize. They could be a menace to Canadian society.”

Bettner couldn’t believe what he was hearing. ‘All crowded together like that?’ There were more jackrabbits than Germans in that part of Saskatchewan. He had heard rumors about Rolson. Fresh out of a smaller center from eastern Canada. Hardly an authority on the West. Newly promoted to the RCMP’s Security Service Division and ambitious as hell. Always ’tilting at windmills.’ The worst kind.

“Sir, I hardly think a few farmers, just soundly beaten and bruised in the war, want to cause more trouble in their new country.”

Rolson, now staring at something on the ceiling, replied. “Bettner, Bettner, where have you been? I have all the reports right here. When that first wave of Germans settled in the area before the First World War, they tried to turn it into a little Germany. And it would have happened if we hadn’t stopped them. Did you know they initially called the town of Leader, ‘Berlin’ and gave all the streets German names. We put a stop to that of course, before they took over the whole province. No, I think we should go have a look and see what they’re up to.”

Bettner already knew where this was heading. ‘We’ meant Bettner was going into the area, and then report back to Rolson. So, he took the initiative. “Where do you want me to go Sir? And when?”

“I’m glad you asked Bettner. Leave as soon as possible. Go out into the Portreeve – Leader area. Take on some form of disguise and fit in, Bettner. I hear there are quite a few newly arrived Germans out that way. Some of them might even be Folksdeutsche.”

Bettner, looking a little bewildered, “Folksdeutsche, Sir? What are those?”

“The worst kind I’m told. Germans from other countries, like Poland for example. Some of them Nazi sympathizers. Some were even German soldiers. They’re here now. They have to be carefully watched. Who knows what they’re up to.” Rolson, by now, had driven himself into a bit of a frenzy, fueled by his endorphins, produced by his paranoia.

“Alright Sir. I’ll leave in a few days. And see what those ‘Gerries’ are up to. I’ll report back in a couple of months.”

“Good Bettner. Take as long as you need. And don’t let me down. These people must be put in their place. They could be troublemakers.”

‘And you want trouble. Hoping for it. Maybe so you can get another promotion, you ambitious, pompous ass. So, you need a little dirt on these people. Well, I’ll find something for you alright.’

…………………….

A Farm, North of Portreeve, Saskatchewan

Claud Vigar, owner of about six sections of land, and renting even more, north of Portreeve, Saskatchewan waved Walter and Adelgunde to come over. “Della,” as he liked to call Adelgunde, “Come and meet the new hired hand, Frank Bettner. Frank, this is Walter and Della, my farm hands. They’ll show you what needs doing. You can sleep in the bunkhouse, and join them for meals.”

Frank shook hands with the couple. “Gutten Tag, Herr Pyszczyk, Frau Pyszczyk.”

Walter, a little surprised at Bettner’s German, shook hands with the tall, blond man. So was Claud. But then he realized, this was a good thing. The couple’s English was still a little shaky. Frank could help them with it.

” Bist auch ein Deutsher? Wie lange sind Sie shon in Kanada?” Walter was curious.

“I’m third generation Canadian, Walter. Born and raised here. But, I can still speak a little German. And my German laughter is excellent.” Walter nodded and smiled. Bettner calmly looked around the little house. Taking it all in at one glance. Poorly constructed, but ‘German’ neat and clean. A big blue wooden trunk sat in the corner, used to put kitchen stuff on and for storage in the small kitchen. He wondered what was in it. Maybe secret plans for the invasion of Saskatchewan.

When Claud left, Walter took a closer look at Bettner, thinking: ‘About thirty-two years old, a good six foot four inches tall, all muscle. Well over two-hundred and twenty pounds. I bet he can throw bales up on the hay wagon all day long, without breaking a sweat. And take a forty-five gallon barrel of fuel and lift it onto the truck box. He’ll do fine.’

“Come, I show you where you sleep. Bring your stuff. In one hour come for supper and we talk about work.” Walter showed Bettner the bunk house and then went back to his own house to get cleaned up for supper. The cows were milked. Chickens, ducks, geese and pigs fed. It was almost time to wrap up the day.

My mother and me, c.1955 – 1956. With all the ducks. On the farm, north of Portreeve, Saskatchewan.

…………………………

The weeks flew quickly by. There was a lot to do on the farm in August and September. It was harvest time. Bettner fit right in. And worked like a horse. Ate like one too, according to Adelgunde. He seemed to know a lot about farming and Walter was impressed. The two men got along well. About the same age. There was an endless amount of talking and the conversation occasionally turned to politics and the ‘old country.’ Whenever the conversation took this path, Adelgunde grew nervous.

“So, Walter, you were in the German army, yah?”

“Yah, air force first. When I puke all over the cockpit, they put me on the ground. Army supply transport truck driver. Until I was captured by Canadians in 1944 on western front.” Walter smiled at that. It could have been worse. He could have been captured by the Russians. He would now probably be quite dead.

“And your family, all still back in Germany I presume?”

At Bettner’s words, Walter’s mood changed. “No more family. All gone.” After that Bettner couldn’t get another word out of him about family.

“It must have been hard for both of you to pack up and leave? Everything. Everyone.” Bettner was gently probing.

“Not so hard for me. Families gone. Germany ‘kaput,’ broken. Nothing left. No work. No food. No hope. No future.”

“But your sympathies must still lie a little with the ‘Vaterland‘ and the loss of the war. That must have been hard?”

“We went through hell and back. Never knowing whether we would live or die, from day to day. I was a soldier. Did as I was told, and hoped I would see the sun rise next day.”

Adelgunde was getting more agitated by the minute. “Walter, I think that’s enough…”

“But not all soldiers were Nazi sympathizers. Not all of us believed or agreed with what Hitler was doing. In this country, they treat us like we are all Nazis.”

“Walter enough.” By now Adelaide’s voice had reached another octave. “Enough politics. That’s what we left behind. Don’t bring it into my house.” Walter shrugged and fell silent. Frank took one look at Adelgunde’s face, and didn’t prod any more.

After supper, when Frank had left and Heinz was sleeping, Adelgunde looked at Walter. “You shouldn’t talk about stuff like that. You don’t know Frank very well. Who knows what he could be telling others, the authorities.” She looked worried.

“‘Gunde, this isn’t Nazi Germany where everyone is an informant and a spy for the government. This country is different. You worry too much.”

“Maybe you’re right Walter. But, please try to be a little more careful. With our neighbors, the Schneiders and the Hecks, we can be a little more open. But you don’t know this man. Just be careful what you say.”

A few hours later, lying in bed, listening to her husband’s steady breathing, Adelgunde worried some more. Even out here in this desolate place, inhabited by few people, most of them Germans, she still could not rid herself of the repressive antics of the Third Reich that she left behind. That ghost was still following her.

And then there was Bettner. ‘Er ist zu wissbegierig und schlau.’ (He’s too inquisitive and sly.) ‘He seems to look around and take in everything at once, noting every detail. Watching us carefully. When we’re not paying attention. He reminds me too much of those German Gestapo fellows. Always on the prowl. Turning over every rock.’ But then she considered Bettner’s eyes. Those deep, deep blue eyes.

Seine Augen sind freundlich und vertrauenswürdig. (His eyes are kind and trustworthy.) I think he’s a good man, but there’s something about him that still makes me uncomfortable. I guess I can’t keep acting like this though. We’re in a new country and it certainly can’t be as bad as home. Can it?’

………………………

A few months later, when Bettner walked into Rolson’s office, the man was sitting behind his desk and seemed to be studying the same spot on the ceiling since the last time Bettner was here.

Bettner waited. And finally said: “Special Agent Bettner reporting back, Sir.” And then waited some more.

Rolson had seemingly solved the problem on the ceiling and looked his way. “Ah, yes, Bettner. You look tanned and fit. Farm life has treated you well? Report what you’ve found, special agent.”

Bettner merely shrugged. Then put a worried, concerned look on his face before answering.

Rolson wasn’t used to being kept waiting. “Well, Bettner, you did find something, right? All that time out there, you should have uncovered something. What are those ‘Gerries’ up to?”

“I don’t know where to start, Sir. You were right though. There are certainly some strange things happening out there. But, I’ll just describe them and let you draw your own conclusions.”

“Yes, Bettner, go on. Get it out.” Rolson was getting excited, now fully engaged. At last, maybe something he could take to his superiors.

Bettner shrugged again, taking his time. Rolson grew increasingly agitated. Finally Bettner began. “First of all they produce enough food to feed a small army, Sir. In the fall they work twelve to sixteen hours a day, harvesting the fields, gardens, canning, butchering. And there’s still more to come. I don’t know why they need all that food. My boss, Walter, put on at least ten pounds this summer.”

Rolson considered this. Food. Army. Yes, of course. Fishy-sounding alright. “Go on Bettner.”

“Most of the farm families have built these bunkers out of earth and timbers. With no windows and thick, thick, doors. I’ve watched them haul all this food in there. And store it. As if getting ready for something big, Sir.”

Rolson nodded. Maybe an invasion? Of course. Army. “Maybe we should do some aerial photography over those farms, Bettner, and see how common this really is.”

“Good idea, Sir. I never would have thought of that.”

But Rolson wasn’t listening, instead furiously writing. Already compiling his report to his superiors. As he wrote, he mumbled, “Any more Bettner? What else did you notice.”

“Perhaps the strangest behavior I noticed though is their soap making.” Before continuing, Bettner waited since Rolson was still madly writing.

Finally Rolson looked up, “Soap making? What’s so strange about that?”

“It’s how they make it and what they call it, Sir. That’s the interesting part. First they fill a large barrel full of ash from their cooking and heating fires in their stoves. The barrel has a small spigot at the bottom for drainage. When it rains the barrel fills with water. They drain off the liquid and then mix it with lard to make the soap.’

“That sound interesting Bettner, but I don’t get it. It’s just soap, right?”

Bettner, now looking grave, leaned over the desk of his superior, almost nose to nose with him. And almost in a whisper said, “It’s what they call the soap Sir. That’s what’s a little strange. They call it Lie soap, Sir.” Bettner looked conspiratorially into Rolson’s eyes, before backing off.

Rolson looked perplexed for only a moment. And then slyly smiled. “Lie soap, Bettner? How do they spell that?”

“Don’t know, Sir. They can’t write English very well, so I never asked.” Bettner did notice Rolson madly writing in his journal: ‘LIE SOAP’.

“Did they say how they used it Bettner? This lie soap.”

“Rumor has it Sir, if you wash your hands with it, you’ll come clean, if you’ll excuse my pun, Sir.”

Rolson looked flustered. “Pun? Never mind. Did you try it Bettner?”

Bettner thought this question rather foolish. But, then he looked solemnly at Rolson. “Sir, if I did that, well, my cover might have been blown. Anyway, I brought you back a few bars. Try it on some prisoners you are interrogating and see how it works.” With that Bettner plunked two large bars of white soap on Rolson’s desk.

Rolson, now looking more pleased than ever, asked, hopefully: “Anything else Bettner, that you noticed? I can’t help but think we’re onto something big here.”

Bettner only nodded even more solemnly, then went on. “Hockey, Sir. There’s going to be trouble there.”

“Hockey, Bettner? What does hockey have to do with new German Canadians?”

Two things, Sir. First, the Leader Hockey team calls themselves the ‘Flyers’. Leader Flyers. Could be nothing more than a name, but you never know. We’ve had troubles with those people before, as you pointed out in our last meeting.”

Rolson, was now rapidly connecting the dots as soon as Bettner opened his mouth. ‘Flyers, yes, maybe a secret German air force of some sort.’

Then he looked up at Bettner. “And the second thing, Bettner?”

“I noticed the young Heinz already has skates and a hockey stick. His father told me he is making great strides learning how to skate and play.” Bettner waited for Rolson to take the bait.

“What’s so important, or threatening, about that, Bettner?”

“Sir, think about it. Germans playing hockey! Where would that end? Strategic breakout plays, defensive zone coverage. Endless drills and practices. They would put skill and strategy into the game, and take all the fun out of it.” Rolson nodded again. Yes, he could see where that could ruin the game.

“And the worst of all, Sir. The father, Walter, is making a helmet for Heinz, so he wouldn’t smack his head on the ice. Can you imagine Sir, helmets in hockey? Those ‘Gerries’ with their helmets…”

“I see Bettner. That kind of thinking could ruin the league. Who ever heard of such an absurd thing? We can’t let them get started.”

Before Bettner could continue, Rolson interjected. “OK, Bettner, that will be all for now. I have more than enough information here to get me started. I have another meeting to attend in the next few minutes. What’s your next move then?”

“Oh, I’m afraid I have to go back for a few more months. This is the best time of year to gather the really good intel. You see, they all gather in the late fall, early winter, eat and celebrate. They’re having a huge gathering and fresh ‘SchweinGebratenes‘ (pig fry) this weekend. I can’t miss that.” Bettner was almost drooling with anticipation as he said these last words.

Rolson looked a little worriedly at his special agent. ‘Why do I get the feeling he’s really enjoying himself out there.’ He shrugged, stood, getting ready to leave for the meeting.

Before he could get around his desk, Bettner blurted out.

“A few more things, Sir. Of utmost importance. You need to hear this, Sir. Before you leave. It could really affect your career.”

Rolson hesitated. Thinking, ‘Well, so I’m a little late for a budget meeting. I hate those damn meetings anyway. And besides. What could be more important than the safety of our country.’ He looked expectantly at Bettner.

“Sir, I hear rumors about a gathering, and the words ‘sauerkraut’ keeps popping up when I’m among them. It could be code, Sir, for something. Remember, we always call them ‘Krauts’ during the war. Well, Säure’ means sour. They might be putting together a crack fighting unit. The Säurer Krauts. A bunch of nasty young German mens with a chip on their shoulder. That would explain why all that food is necessary.”

“Good point Bettner. Anything else? Do they have weapons?”

“None that I’ve seen, Sir. But, sometimes when the German men get together, and have too much to drink, they start talking about, ‘Die Grosse Berta.’ (The ‘Big Bertha’). And they roar with laughter. As soon as the women approach, they shut up as if keeping some big secret.”

“Big Bertha.” I don’t understand Bettner?”

“As you recall, Sir, that was the name of the long-range artillery gun they developed in the Firsts World War. Could shoot your eye out, lobbing a shell half the size of this office all the way from Swift Current to Regina.” Rolson visibly shuddered at the thought.

“And when they get together they sing in German, and read Der Courier, a German newspaper out of Winnipeg. And occasionally I hear some sort of chanting. Something like, Sind Heil. Sind Heil. Not sure what to make of that yet, Sir. But, this next trip might tell me.”

“At their last party, one of the neighbors got so drunk, he hitched the horses backwards to the sleigh, to take his family home. They’re a rowdy bunch, Sir. That I can vouch for.” Rolson, nodded, now desperately trying to get away from Bettner, to attend his meeting. But, before he could escape, Bettner was at it again.

“But of all the things I’ve seen, what worries me most is that blue wooden trunk of Adelgunde’s. It’s always locked, and not one can look in for some reason.”

Rolson was thinking, ‘Maybe holding secret plans of some sort. What else could it be for.’

“And one last thing Sir before you go. Also, of utmost importance.” Again, Bettner leaned over conspiratorially toward Rolson, almost whispering in his ear. “I’d take this right to the top, Sir. Don’t go through the normal channels. Why, you may wonder? Well, think about it. What’s your superior’s last name?”

“Shultz,” blurted out Rolson. ‘Yes, of course, Schultz.’

“Can’t be too careful now can we, Sir? Your never know. They probably already have spies everywhere….”

Bettner winked at his superior and finally left the room. Rolson, a little shaken by these last words, just stood there, motionless. ‘That Bettner is right. Who can I trust these days?’ Then he turned and managed to catch the end of his budget meeting.

Those partying Germans, c.1956-1957. For many of you their names don’t mean much. For those of you reading this who are from the Portreeve – Shackleton area, you may recognize a few names. From the top left: the late Adelgunde Pyszczyk; the late Gustov Gotzman; the late Ida Berg; the late Walter Pyszczyk; the late Olga Gotzman. Bottom row: the late Ralph Berg; Erica Berg (Minor, Undseth), and Heinz Pyszczyk.

…………………….

Ottawa, Three Months Later

Special agent Bettner strode into the Chief Superintendent’s office, back after two more months of undercover work. Still a little hung over, and a little fatter. Gosh those Germans could cook. He looked around. ‘Strange, something’s not right here. The office is reorganized, a new secretary.’

He looked at the secretary. “Yes, I’m here to report back to Chief Superintendent Rolson.”

The secretary looked at him a little quizzically before answering. “I’m sorry Sir. Bettner is it? Chief Superintendent Rolson is no longer here. He’s been reassigned.”

Bettner put on a surprised look on his face. “Reassigned? But he just got here. Where did he go?”

The secretary shook her head. “It’s best if the new Chief Superintendent briefed you, Sir. He’s expecting you, so go right in.”

“Special agent, Frank Bettner, reporting, Sir.” Bettner eyed the new superintendent. Who was eyeing him as well. More like sizing him up. Boring into him, as if wanting to extract something.

“Sit down Bettner. How was the field work?”

“Tough, Sir. Hard keeping up with those Germans in the fall. They work their tails off to get ready for winter. And then eat and celebrate even harder.”

Superintendent Kirkland was in the process of closing a huge, fat file, with the bright red letters across its cover: CONFIDENTIAL. He continued to stare at Bettner.

“Sir, if you don’t mind me asking, what happened to Superintendent Rolson?”

Kirkland appraised Bettner further, as if deciding how much to reveal and whether to trust him. After what he had just read in the file, this one was a sly buggar.

“Yes, well, ‘Corporal’ Rolson was reassigned after what happened with this German investigation.” He waited for Bettner to speak.

“Reassigned, Sir? He’s a corporal now? Where too?”

“He’ll be working out of Cambridge Bay, and points north. All the way to Alert Bay in the territories.”

Bettner gasped in disbelief. ‘Holy shit, that’s almost in Russia.’ “May I ask why, Sir?”

“You may Bettner. But I’m sure you already know the answer. Since our now ‘Corporal’ Rolson has such a keen imagination for potential enemies of the state, we sent him north to deal with the next expected menace.”

“I didn’t know we had any menaces up there, Sir. Just ice and snow and hardly any people.”

“Oh, Rolson will find something. Real or not. He’ll conjure some up. You can appreciate that can’t you Bettner?”

Bettner gulped. He didn’t like where this conversation was heading.

“You see Bettner, his mandate up there is to warn us if the ‘commies’ prepare to invade Canada across the arctic. And the ice. He has to watch the ice.”

“Watch the ice, Sir? I don’t understand. It’s all ice up there. Nothing but ice.”

“That’s his job Bettner. To watch the ice doesn’t become a threat. And report back bi-annually, if he sees anything suspicious. Last time I talked with him, he asked specifically about you. Whether it would be possible to transfer you up there to help him out. You seemed to work so well together on this last assignment. Thought we might send you along with him.”

Bettner gulped again. A small trickle of sweat began running down his spine. ‘No. Anywhere but there. No.’ “I’m hardly suited for the arctic, Sir. I’m too tall. I would freeze instantly, and intimidate those shorter Inuit.”

Kirkland smiled. ‘Fast thinker, aren’t you Bettner. Now that your shorts are in a bit of a knot.’

“Agreed Bettner. You’ll continue to work here. For me. But, let’s get one thing straight. No more bullshit, like what I’m reading here in Rolson’s report to the Commissioner. The Commissioner. Can you believe that? Why would he do such a thing? Bypass the chain of command?” He looked suspiciously at Bettner, who now was studying that same spot on the ceiling as Rolson had before.

Gradually Bettner looked down, at Kirkland. “Yes, Sir. But, it wasn’t quite like that. I told him things and he probably used his slightly over-creative imagination I guess. Thought the information I gave him was really important to move right to the top.”

“Bettner, we’re starting off on the wrong foot here. Is there are real German threat out west? Or not?”

“No Sir. They’re a hard working bunch of people who just want some peace and stability in their lives. Good food. And, a little fun. They get together, mainly because there is no one else up there, and they understand one another.”

“The shit really hit the fan Bettner, when Rolson accused the land owner Claud Vigar of being a German sympathizer. Word got out and Claud got pissed off and went to the politicians. And reamed the crap out of them. Then they in turn reamed the crap out of us. And so on. Vigar contributes to all the strong political parties. He’s always got friends in government no matter who’s in power. Pretty stupid of Rolson to single him out. I wonder where he got that idea Bettner?” Kirkland was staring rather icily at him again. Waiting.

“Well, he might have misunderstood what I said, Sir. All I said was that Mr. Vigar seemed very friendly with his German hired hands, and his name didn’t really sound too English. That’s all I said, Sir.”

“Is that so Bettner. Maybe he should have checked his history. Vigars arrived in England, from Normandy, with the Norman Conquest of 1066. They lived in Cornwall.”

Bettner, now feeling extremely uncomfortable, just wanted to get out of Kirkland’s office. “Will that be all, Sir? I’m sure you’re busy with other more important things.”

Kirkland looked at him one final time. Again, as if sizing him up, as if fitting him for a winter parka for the Canadian arctic. “One last thing Bettner. The only good thing that came out of this pile of shit in front of me was the hockey helmet idea. The commissioner really liked that. He’s going to meet with NHL officials to discuss it. Right now we have Canadians’ brains being spattered all over the ice. That has to stop. It may take years though.”

Kirkland was already eying another file in his in-basket. Without so much as even glancing at Bettner, he just pointed towards the door. “Close the door on your way out.”

“Yes Sir. Nothing more important than national security and hockey.”

“Get out Bettner, before I change my mind and send you to Cambridge Bay. I’m sure Rolson will have a welcoming party ready for you. I hear you’ve been playing hockey with the Leader Flyers. Maybe in Cambridge Bay you could play all year ’round.”

Bettner left in a hurry. Wondering where his next assignment might be. Hopefully not in Cambridge Bay. Oh, Please God. Wondering too, ‘I never did find out what was in that wooden blue trunk of Adelgunde’s. Well, it sure wasn’t blueprints for a new weapon to take over Saskatchewan.’ He nodded to himself. Now that was solid intel.

A Few Final Notes:

I struggled writing this story. And when it was finished, whether to even post it. As I wrote it, I got a little choked up. Thinking about my parents and what they went through, as new Canadians. And, looking through those old photographs brought back a flood of memories.

I guess what finally convinced me to post it is our attitude towards newly landed Canadian immigrants. There is still a belief among some Canadians that immigrants just suck our tax money away. And somehow are a threat to our Canadian way of life.

We sometimes forget that many Canadian immigrants went through hell just to get here. Just happy to be alive. For many there were two choices: Leave, or die. I heard that a lot when growing up over the dinner table, from my parents. For my father, the loss of his family after World War II was so emotional that he didn’t want to talk much about them.

In 1999, my mother finally hooked up with what was left of her family in what was formerly East Germany. Over fifty years after escaping across the Iron Curtain, into the West. It was a very special time for her. For all of us.

As first generation Canadians, we struggled, but adapted quickly enough. Yes, we were discriminated against. The emotions of war were still raw among many Canadians. It wasn’t that long ago, we were the enemy. I was called a ‘Nazis’ at school. Some of the other kids had a great time with my last name. But we fit in a lot more smoothly than many other immigrants who come to this country. And most Canadians were considerate, sympathetic, and very kind.

How to tell this story? It runs the gamut of emotions and mood. In short story writing 101, you’re supposed to set a mood and then stick with it throughout the narrative. I had a hard time with that. The first part of this story is dark, filled with fear, hopelessness, grief and despair. The second part with the RCMP is mostly political satire and humor. Usually these emotions in one story don’t mix very well.

But, some of the things I hear about immigrants, and how they supposedly threaten our Canadian way of life, while dark, are almost humerus and hard to believe. Almost. But, scary as well. Because behind all that paranoia and xenophobia, are good people that I worked with, play hockey with, or go have a few drinks with.

I have the utmost respect for Canadian law enforcement and what our police are faced with trying to figure out who is ‘naughty’ and who is ‘nice’. There is a Rolson or two in every profession. Clearly, from the little literature I read, before and during the first world War and during the Second World War, our Canadian police were watching out for German and Japanese sympathizers. Even going so far as to inter entire families. As they did with many Japanese Canadians.

It is less clear how much RCMP surveillance there was after the Second World War, as another wave of German immigrants arrived in Canada. Many settling in western Canada. Including the Swift Current – Leader corridor. Was there an RCMP dossier on German Canadians? Perhaps on the Berg’s and the Pyszczyk’s? If those documents exist, they are probably so deeply buried in the Canadian archives it will take more than a century before they ever see the light of day.

Now that I look back on those early years, our families didn’t much ‘rock the Canadian boat’. Not even in hockey. Fancy breakout plays were not foremost on my mind when I played. I, like my Canadian teammates, was just trying to survive.

Pond’s Game of Double Jeopardy

Double Jeopardy: Risk of loss or injury arising from two sources at the same time.

Peter Pond was an 18th century American explorer who played a significant role in western Canadian history. And was likely well armed as well, given his reportedly violent temper. And a few shooting incidents. This pistol may have belonged to him during those rather exciting excursions in the Canadian northwest.

He was dreaming. His father was beating him mercilessly for dropping his fork on the floor while eating his supper. The pain was excruciating. “That will teach you to be more careful at the table, Peter.” He only nodded and continued crying.

1778 Northern Saskatchewan

Peter Pond, American peddler, now partnered with Joseph Frobisher and Simon McTavish and Company, Montreal, tried to ignore his competition. Who were now boldly standing and shouting at him from their canoes, quickly approaching the shore of the long, narrow lake. This was bad. ‘Not only is this wilderness against me, but now the opposition is breathing down my neck. I’m always fighting two enemies. Two battles. At the same time.’

His head was swimming. His breath coming in short gasps. He started to hyperventilate, feeling one of his sudden rages coming on. Never a good thing. Especially for whoever happened to be near him. His men looked on. Worried.

Pond had taken the northern route west past Lake Winnipeg, following Thomas Frobisher’s instructions. Along with the crude map given to him by Frobisher. He muttered to himself, ‘Somehow there has to be a passage into the rivers and lakes flowing north, and not into Hudson Bay. Somewhere. But where? Is this where?’

He stood scratching his head, staring at the little sketch map in front of him. It didn’t make much sense. They had traveled the length of a long, narrow lake and didn’t know which one of the many channels, leading off the lake, to take west. He took another reading with his compass. His head was throbbing. And now those bloody fools from Montreal were nearly on top of him.

Part of the Churchill River canoe route, through Ile-a-la-Crosse, up the Churchill River into Churchill Lake and Peter Pond Lake, northern Saskatchewan. The yellow line marks the routes Pond and Paul Black took, searching for a way into the Athabasca drainage. It’s not too hard to imagine how someone in a canoe could get hopelessly lost without guidance. Or, a proper map, which was non-existent then.

“Where to now Peter? I see nothing but endless water. And now our competition’s barking up our arses.” Elliot waited patiently. He knew Pond wouldn’t answer immediately. And he dared say no more. This man, although usually kind and understanding with his men, and the Natives, had sudden flashes of anger and violence. Sometimes over the smallest things. So Elliot simply waited.

Pond finally turned toward Elliot, reluctantly taking his eyes off the horizon and the sun. He was just about to speak, when one of the men in the incoming canoes shouted across the water.

“Well, if it isn’t the American retired soldier, Mr. Peter Pond. What? Lost your way? There’s no one to kill or duel way out here, Pond. Why are you looking so puzzled? I thought you were a good navigator and mapmaker, Pond? Are you lost?” Paul Black, an independent peddler out of Montreal scowled at Pond. He, and many other concerns in Montreal, hated the American. He was too good. Serious competition. He had no business in their country.

“We’re six canoes to your four, Pond. So, don’t get trigger-happy or there will be trouble. I promise you that.”

Pond stared back at Black, feeling nauseous, his headache getting worse. He was trembling. It was always like this before something bad happened. As he reached for his musket, he tried desperately to control himself. ‘No. Not yet. Don’t do this. Not yet.’ With these now somewhat garbled thoughts, he barely managed to pull his hand away from his pistol. Elliot looked on worriedly. The others looked away.

Finally the parties broke up, barely having avoided flying fists or duels with pistols. Pond turned to his guide. “Well, which way? This bloody map is useless. A blob for the lake on a piece of paper, showing a river running out the west side, but little more. A note saying, ‘turn west at five-five degrees north latitude.’ What, was Frobisher thinking? That I carry a sextant in my pocket? To measure latitude?” His Dene guide, Yakecan just shrugged, pointing at the water.

Pond, messaging his forehead, trying to make the headache go away, was still irate. And continued his tirade. “We paddled the entire length of this lake and there are at least four major channels that turn west. Each channel is a third of a degree, or less, apart. I couldn’t measure our position that accurately even if I had a sextant. And that fool Frobisher, draws a thin oval for a lake. It’s damn more complicated than that.” He turned to his guide once more. “Which is the right channel, Yakecan?”

Yakecan shrugged, again, then replied rather cryptically: “Many fish swim in muddy waters. Find the fish and the muddy waters. That’s the right channel.”

At first Pond only grimaced, thinking, ‘Did I hire an idiot for a guide? He’s supposed to be the best there is. Fish, muddy waters? What the hell is that supposed to mean?’ He started shaking again, but then suddenly grinned, finally realizing what his guide meant. His men looked on in bewilderment, still wondering what the Dene was talking about?

“OK men, gather ’round. Those scoundrels from Montreal are waiting for us to take the correct channel. They’re so foolish, they probably need our help to find their way out of their freight canoes. Without our help, they’re lost. With our help, they’ll soon be lost again. Here’s what we’ll do…..” Pond carefully laid out his plan for his men. They grinned, delighted. Now they also knew what Yakecan was talking about. They lived to trick and beat their competition.

……………………….

After breaking camp the next morning, Pond’s four canoes traveled back up the long, narrow lake again before selecting a channel that led northwest. They knew their competition was watching them, but pretended not to notice.

“OK men, set a steady, but medium pace. Let those bastards catch up and pass us, before we make our next move.”

Black watched from his hiding place along the shore, as Pond’s canoes turned into the channel. “Well, you showed me the route Pond. Not so clever after all.”

He turned and shouted at his men. “Get those canoes into the water, you lazy turds, and follow him. Quick. Before we lose him. That’s the channel we need to take, to get to the Arabosca country.”

His men reluctantly obeyed, eyeing him with disdain. Once Black was out of earshot Daniel whispered to LeTour. “I hope that arrogant asshole knows what he’s doing. He leads like an emperor. More with the whip than his brains. We could all get lost out here in this godforsaken water-wilderness and perish, because of his conceit.” LeTour nodded knowingly. But there wasn’t much they could do when Black took the ‘full bit between his teeth.’

“We’ve almost got them,” shouted Black at his men. Soon we’ll pass them and get into the Arabosca country ahead of them, and then secure the trade. Once we debauch the Indians with enough liquor, and put them in our debt, the furs will be all ours.” Then Black started singing, forcing his reluctant men to sing along. But their voices sounded more like they were attending a funeral march.

A worried LeTour bent over in the canoe and whispered to Daniel. “How’s this supposed to work, Daniel? So, we get ahead of Pond. Black doesn’t know where he’s going. And he doesn’t bother hiring an Indian guide. I don’t like this at all, Daniel.” They kept on paddling, worried looks on their faces, wondering how all this would end. And, then there was Pond’s temper. That worried them most. There were rumors…

Finally the six opposition canoes pulled up beside Pond’s canoes, waving and jeering. Some men swore at him. Others spat. Black, majestically standing in the back of his canoe, waved at his competition. Then he fired his pistol over Pond’s head. “Thought you could outrun us Pond? No bonus for you this year, Yankee. We’ll be coming back, laden with furs, before you reach the Arabosca country.”

One of Pond’s men had heard enough. He took the steersman’s long paddle and gave Black a shot in the ribs, sending him overboard into the freezing spring waters. Black surfaced, sputtering, and was somewhat reluctantly grabbed and thrown into the canoe by his men. Still sputtering and coughing. Now furious.

He pulled out his wet pistol only to realize how useless it was. “I’ll get you for this you Yankee toad. I won’t forget.” Now Black didn’t look very splendid anymore, his uniform soaked and his knee-high leather boots full of water.

As the opposition canoes sped past, Pond’s men roared with laughter, giving their opponents some French Canadian cheer, then stopped paddling. Time for a smoke. And something to eat. They pulled out some pemmican and began chewing. Soon the other canoes were a mere speck on the horizon.

Pond felt a little better after seeing Black humiliated. He ate some of his pemmican before asking his men. “So, how’s this fare? Can you live on it, if you have to? This is the first time I’ve used it with the brigades, and I need your advice.”

Lizotte, usually silent, sitting up front, piped up. “It’s good Peter. Rich. Fills the stomach. Gives me strength to paddle for hours. And it takes so little to make a meal. A bag of this will get us across the continent.” The other men nodded in agreement.

Pond looked pleased. “Well done men. Especially sending that asshole Black into the drink. That will teach him. Now let’s turn around and take the right channel, before they figure out what we’re up to.”

……………………….

Pond’s men peered over the side of their canoes marveling at the sight. Below them in the clear, shallow water a steady flow of fish swam up the lake channel toward the running water coming out of the river at the end of the lake, to spawn. “This one, right, Yakecan?” His guide merely nodded at Pond.

As they got closer to the mouth of the river, at the end of the channel, the water grew murkier from the spring runoff, laden with sediments. “Many fish swim in muddy waters,” his guide exclaimed again. Yes, the spring spawn was on. They had found the right channel. And a sizeable river at the end.

That evening the men feasted on fresh fish and rested, before journeying up the river to the next lake. Now a little closer to their destination. Elliot glanced at Peter. “I wonder where those stupid, arrogant Montrealers are now, Peter? They will be even more dangerous and threatening after this little incident. If they ever catch up to us.”

In another channel, things were not going so well for the Montrealers. Black’s six canoes finally reached the end of the lake channel only to find a very small creek with a trickle of water coming out of it. There was no passage this way. Tricked.

Black, screamed at his men. Spittle flying everywhere. “How could this happen? Was no one watching that bloody American?” He glared at his men, almost daring them to say something.

“You told us to paddle hard sir. So, we put our backs into it, never looking back.” As he said this, LeTour also wondered why Black wasn’t paying more attention while they were paddling.

‘Now what,’ thought Black? ‘I have no idea what channel to take. We’ll have to check each one before we find the right one. That could take days. And we could lose him.’ He swore again and told his men to turn around. ‘I guess I’ll try the largest one first. As good as any.’

Luckily Black turned out to be right. He yelled in triumph and then pushed his men relentlessly up the river, trying to catch Pond’s party. Finally they reached the end of the river, and there on the shore of another enormous lake stood Pond. His men were busy repairing their canoes which had taken a beating on the journey up the river. Black got lucky, again. But, luck could be a double-edged sword.

Paul Black, red-faced, glared at Pond. “You tricked me once Yankee. It won’t happen again.” He was about to reach for his musket and shoot at Pond. But, then he saw the look in Pond’s eyes. Vacant. Staring. His hands trembling, and sweating. Black thought the better of it. ‘Wonder what’s wrong with him? He doesn’t look so well.’

Pond tried to calm down. “Why don’t we just work together Black? There’s enough furs for all of us in the northwest. No hard feelings. Just a little joke. What’s wrong anyway, Black? Lost your compass? You couldn’t find the right channel by yourself?”

“You know goddamned well why a compass or even a sextant wouldn’t work here my friend. Those instruments are too crude to measure latitude in such small increments. Or, determine the right angle for each of those channels, all pointing in almost the same direction. And these pieces of shit maps are useless. I still wonder how you found your way?”

Black looked sideways at Pond, who had now stopped shaking, hoping for an answer. And only received silence in return. Also, a slight smile from Pond’s Dene guide. Black wondered,’what’s that stupid Indian smiling at?’

Pond mused, ‘Maybe if you’d quit treating the Natives like fools, you might learn something. Who would ever, in his right mind, travel in this wilderness without a Native guide. Or Native help. Only that arrogant Canadian, dressed in black, would dare.’

“Why don’t we just break out the kegs and have some drinks, Black. I’ll make you a present of a few casks. Talk things over like adults and tomorrow be on our way. You know the way from here, right Black?”

Black nodded, trying to look confident in front of his men. He really wasn’t too certain. His maps were even worse than Pond’s. His navigating skills almost non-existent.

“Agreed Pond. But, no more tricks.” That afternoon Black and LeTour watched as Pond stood by the lake with his compass pointing it steadily along the east shoreline. Nodding, as if confirming to himself that it was the right direction to take.

“Did you see that LeTour? North-to-northeast on the compass. At least now we know which direction to take.” Black turned and went to the fires, preparing for the evening events. His men would be happy. The drinks were on that fool Pond.

LeTour looked on uneasily. Pond was as shifty as they came. He didn’t trust him. And, he feared that look in his eyes. He would listen carefully by the evening fires to see if he could find out more from Pond’s men about which route to take. ‘Rum loosens tongues, and someone will talk.’ With those misguided thoughts he too turned towards the camp fires.

That night the men celebrated. A few fist fights broke out, but nothing serious. And the tongues wagged on which direction to take tomorrow. By the time the party finished, every direction on the compass had been whispered to Black and his men. That night Black’s men slept more soundly than usual.

…………………….

Pond and his men were already on the water two hours before sunrise, having crept quietly out of the sleeping camp.

Elliot looked at Pond. “What did you put in those kegs you gave Black, Peter? His men are out cold, and not just from too much drink.” He waited for an answer which finally came. Pond was busy looking at the dwindling stars. Making notes.

“I laced those kegs with Laudanum. Those men won’t wake up for some time. And they won’t have any dysentery problems for months.”

After looking at his compass, Pond glanced over at Yakecan. “This isn’t the right lake or channel is it my friend? According to my readings, we’re heading too far northeast.”

Yakecan simply shrugged, before saying, “Find the moving water, Peter. Then follow it.”

By now Pond was accustomed to his guide’s rather short, calculated answers. Not a word wasted. ‘Follow the moving water.’ He wasn’t about to argue. Without his Dene guide, he wouldn’t have gotten this far.

By sunrise Pond’s canoes had moved around a spit of land and found themselves in a channel, between an island and the shoreline. They were just about to pass a narrow opening along the shore, not thinking much of it because it looked like a dead end. Then Pond felt it. Moving water. Coming from the narrow opening. Toward them. “Turn in there men.” Yakecan nodded knowingly.

The canoes moved up a narrow channel, the current against them, which eventually opened into an enormous lake, nearly twenty-five miles long. Pond marveled at the sight. The lake was oriented in the direction they needed to take.

“This one Yakecan, right?” Yakecan simply nodded again. Pond’s men broke out into a canoe song, continuing their journey west up the enormous lake. And with the help of their Dene guide, over Methye portage, and eventually into the Arabosca country.

………………………….

“Wake up Black.” Black opened one eye, only to see LeTour staring down at him, his breath reeking of last night’s festivities. “They’re gone. Not a trace of them anywhere.”

Black, now fully awake, stared at LeTour. “Who’s gone? What are you talking about?” Then he remembered the party. The drinking. He gingerly touched his sore head.

“The American and his men have disappeared.”

At LeTour’s words, Black sobered up fast. “Gone? Well, to hell with them. We know which direction to take, LeTour. You heard the rumors last night, right?”

“I heard all sorts of rumors. Not sure what to believe. I don’t trust that Yankee dog. He already tricked us once. He might again.” LeTour was scowling, obviously in a foul mood.

“You take two canoes and travel along the east shore of the lake, LeTour. I’ll take the other four and go along the west shore. One of us has to find the river or channel leading out of this lake, and when he does, just waits for the other to show up.” LeTour nodded. Soon they were on their way.

“Well, this must be it. It’s big enough. I think the water is moving slightly.” The two men stared at the channel that led out of the end of the lake. LeTour didn’t seem convinced.

“This has to be the channel, LeTour. There is no other opening along this lake. And he’s gone.” Black had missed the channel Pond took. Both men stared up the channel which looked relatively wide and promising enough. They got into the canoes and pushed off into the opening.

A week passed. After canoeing endless miles and traversing many channels and lakes, which were now all beginning to look alike, they finally came to the end of the last lake. And a dead end. Now almost exhausted, fly bitten, and nearly out of food, they looked forlornly at the solid lake shore in front of them. No river, no channel. Nothing but dense forest.

“We’re totally, completely lost Black. There’s no way any further by canoe. We have to turn back. We’ve missed something.”

“Black only looked sourly at LeTour. “Find our way back? In this incredible maze of channels, lakes and marshes? I didn’t draw a map as we were moving up. Or take directions. Did you?”

LeTour only looked despondently back into the distance, shaking his head. Thinking, ‘double jeopardy.’ They had lost. To Pond, and nature.

The Little Fort on the Athabasca River

The men saw it immediately, and moved away. Pond was growing irritated. “These goddamned blood sucking mosquitoes. They’re driving me crazy.” He started wildly swinging his musket at a swarm of bugs above his head. The men moved even further away. Finally, in a great outburst of rage, he fired his musket into another swarm of bugs. “There, that’ll show them.” Suddenly Pond was calm again. Almost looking relieved. So were his men.

Two of his men stood out of earshot, whispering. “Paul Black threatens him, ridicules him. He’s swore at, spat at. Shot at. And he does nothing. Then he totally loses it over a swarm of mosquitoes. I don’t understand, Elliot.”

“Neither do I, Roy. But, at least he gets us to where all the furs are, alive. No complaints from me.” They talked more about what they would do with all their money, once they got home.

1780, Montreal

“You understand Mr. Pond, this is not a trial. Only an inquiry.”

“Yes Sir, I do.” But before Pond could go on, Black’s widow jumped up and started screaming and pointing a finger at him.

“He killed my husband. That Yankee bastard is to blame. String him up. Oh, my poor husband, and all those men. Their children will never see them again.” With those words she broke into tears, and had to be led out of the room.

The inquiry continued. “Mr. Pond, it is my understanding that Mr. Black followed you northwest and you were in contact with him.”

Pond, pondered the question for a while, before answering. “Yes, Black’s canoes were behind us, following us.”

“And was there any incident that might have led to their disappearance?”

Pond merely smiled. Thinking, ‘What a stupid question.’ Then he answered. “Yes, there probably was Sir, or they wouldn’t have disappeared.” The magistrate merely scowled when hearing the Yankee’s answer.

A few more halfhearted questions followed before the inquiry ended.

Peter Pond stood up and strode out of the room. Now a much richer man, having taken so many furs out of the Arabosca country, he would have to go back next year, to collect the rest that he cached. Perhaps he should give Black’s widow a few pounds sterling. No. The public would then think he had done something wrong.

Author’s Notes:

I can’t imagine navigating northern Saskatchewan’s or Manitoba’s numerous lakes and rivers in a canoe to find the route to Methye Portage, then eventually into the Athabasca River. What a monumental task that would have been. And what courage it would have taken.

In 1976 I took a boreal ecology course at the University of Manitoba. Part of the course involved traipsing around the lake district northeast of Lake Winnipeg, in the dead of winter. It was there that I fully comprehended the vastness of the many northern lakes, rivers, islands and channels. You could get seriously lost in a heartbeat. If you didn’t freeze to death first.

Of course, we had compasses to help us find our way. Or so we thought. One cloudy afternoon our professor told us to traverse an island in the lake. He would meet us on the other side. After many hours we finally made it, frozen, exhausted, and somewhat bewildered. It was then that our spiritual leader informed us the island contained a considerable iron ore deposit beneath it. Of course, rendering our compasses useless.

During the late 18th century, when this story took place, the American, Peter Pond probably used a compass. Not likely a sextant or watches, to calculate latitude and longitude accurately, judging by the quality of his maps. While latitude was relatively easy to calculate, even a sextant could not have measured locations to one-third degree very accurately. Pond needed more than instruments to find his way into the Athabasca drainage, through the Methye Portage route. Certainly his Native guide(s) played a major role.

Even after becoming more familiar with the region, this is what Pond mapped in 1785. The map is very simple (leaving out a lot of detail) and quite distorted as well, when compared to a modern map of the area. The long, narrow lake at the bottom of this image is Ile-a-la-Crosse. The orange writing is mine.

The main character in this story, Peter Pond, was the first White man to set foot along Methye Portage and eventually find his way into the Athabasca drainage in 1778. Although his maps are rough, they certainly paved the way for later explorers to move further northwest. Especially his protege, Alexander Mackenzie.

While Pond is real enough, Paul Black and his men, and their encounters with Pond in this story, are fictional.

I have often wondered about Peter Pond’s personality. And that reportedly bad temper of his. David Thompson wrote: “He was a person of industrious habits, a good common education, but of a violent temper and unprincipled character.” Pond was involved in a duel in the US, and two murder incidents in the Canadian northwest. He was acquitted of both murders, but the rumors swirled.

Was Pond’s temper just an occasional lapse? Or, perhaps something more sinister? When it comes to understanding afflictions and illnesses in the past, historic records are often difficult to interpret. I started doing some research (for my not so soon to be published novel) on what might have ailed Pond. And came across a psychological malady, known as Intermittent Explosive Disorder. Check it out.

Essentially, it is a behavioral disorder where the individual has explosive outbursts of anger and/or violence, “…that are disproportionate to the situation at hand (e.g., impulsive shouting, screaming or excessive reprimanding triggered by relatively inconsequential events). Impulsive aggression is not premeditated, and is defined by a disproportionate reaction to any provocation, real or perceived. Some individuals have reported affective changes prior to an outburst, such as tension, mood changes, energy changes…”

Some psychologists believe one of the possible causes of this disorder stems back to a violent childhood. The child is physically abused, and then later in life finds a sense of redemption by putting others through pain. Once the rage is over, the tension is released and relief is achieved. Other potential causes include genetics and differences (function, chemistry and structure) in how the brain operates.

Peter Pond often had real reason, and not some trivial incident, to turn violently against his rivals. Regardless of what may have plagued him, which we can only guess at, Peter Pond was occasionally a very violent man. And a very organized, calculating individual. Also, someone who contributed significantly to the exploration of the incredibly challenging 18th century western Canadian frontier.

The Trader’s Private Stock: A Short Story

The Writing of History

In a former blog I talked about Historical Fiction as a possible genre to personalize historical facts. I continue in that vein with another short story. What happened at a remote late eighteenth century Canadian, Saskatchewan River fur trade post when the brandy supplies kept disappearing? The story is based on North West Company’s clerk Duncan M’Gillvray’s Fort George journals, John McDonald of Garth’s memoirs, and archaeological investigations at the fort site in the 1970s. Our main man, chief trader Angus Shaw, faces a problem. Pilfering. By his men. How does he deal with it? Read on and find out.

The Story

Fort George, Alberta, 1793

One of the fort Engages rushed into chief trader Angus Shaw’s rather spacious private quarters in the Big House, sitting on the high banks of the North Saskatchewan River. Before Shaw could ask what the man wanted, the words came tumbling out.

“They’re here Sir. And there must be a least two-hundred of them.”

“Who’s ‘they’ LaFrance? The King of England and his court? Quit talking in riddles man. Speak English.”

“Blackfoot, Sir. Wanting to talk and trade. They insist on a meeting and gifts first.”

“What the hell are they doing here this late in the fall?” Shaw stood up from his chair, walked around a bit, considering what to do.

“Well, they’re here. Can’t just turn them away. Break out the tobacco and brandy, LaFrance, and invite their principal men into Indian Hall. Keep the others out.” Shaw knew he had to accommodate them or lose the trade to his neighbors at Buckingham House.

“Buckingham House,” he snorted. “Where does the HBC come up with those damned names?” Then he considered his fort’s name, ‘Fort George’. ‘Not exactly fitting for the Canadian wilderness either,’ he thought. He waited for his men to finish preparations and LaFrance to return. He was still deep in thought when the door opened letting in the drafty cool fall air. And a little more.

“Close the door LaFrance. You’re letting in that awful stench. What is that anyway?”

LaFrance answered dutifully. “It’s from the butchering sir. We’re starting to fill the ice pits with meat for the winter, to make pemmican for the spring brigades.”

“Well, it smells God-awful. I’m glad winter will soon be here so that stench won’t be as bad. Are we ready for the meeting LaFrance? You look a little pale.”

LaFrance was standing there, trembling. “Sir the high wines are almost all gone, and what’s left tastes more like water than brandy.” LaFrance quickly looked at the door, as if getting ready for a rapid escape. He knew Shaw was going to blow his lid.

And LaFrance was right. Shaw lost it. Completely! He hurled his clay tobacco pipe at the mud wall, breaking it into little pieces. He kicked a chair, sending it flying LaFrance’s way. His Cree country wife, Marguerite, came running into the room to see what was wrong. She took one look at the scene, then quickly left.

“How in the hell can that be? The brigades just got back from Montreal two months ago and we’re already low on liquor? This is a disaster LaFrance. I’ll have to borrow more from our neighbors at an exorbitant price, of course. But not now, let’s give the Blackfoot what we have and hope it’s enough.”

After Shaw partially regained his composure, LaFrance tentatively ventured some more information. “Well Sir, about what happened. The lock on the storage cellar was tampered with again. It seems someone broke in and helped themselves to some drink.” LaFrance was stammering now, looking quite guilty, as if he might somehow have been involved.

“Some drink? The lock was tampered with? How so, LaFrance?”

“Well, smashed into little pieces, Sir.” Again the Engage looked quickly away, steadily backing toward the door. “I think Sir, we’re ready. The principal men are gathered in the Indian Hall and await you.” He turned and hurried out the door.

As Shaw walked toward the Indian room to meet the Blackfoot principal men, he thought about his not so little dilemma. He knew without alcohol, he would lose the trade to his competitors. ‘This is happening to often. Those god-damned French Canadians. They drink and party endlessly and could cost me a small fortune if this keeps up.’

Then in a more sober moment of thinking, he reluctantly admitted: ‘Well, even though they are some of the worst scoundrels around, they’re the best canoe men, carpenters, and labourers in the Canadian west. And, maybe it wasn’t them. Some of my officers aren’t exactly angles either. I’ll just have to build something to keep everyone out of the Company stores, and hide the liquor.’ He left and walked into the Indian Hall, cordially greeting the Blackfoot principal men.

…………………….

“Early this morning ten young Blackfoot came in for tobacco for a band who were to arrive later; sent, as usual, six inches to each principal man. They arrived at noon and pitched their tents, each party near the gates of their own trader. Gave them liquor as usual, one pint of Indian rum to each principal man, and they began to drink.” (from the journals of Alexander the Younger, Fort Vermilion (on the Saskatchewan near Fort George, November 12, 1809; Coues 1897:571)

They all sat and smoked, and prayed. Then one of the Blackfoot men took a sip of his brandy, blanched, and spit it all over the wood hall floor. He looked at Shaw in disgust, a deep scowl forming on his face. He spoke to Shaw’s translator, who turned a lighter shade of red.

“So, what did he say, Blanchet?” Shaw already knew but listened anyway.

Blanchet reluctantly told Shaw, while the principal men were fidgeting, as if preparing to leave. “He says this stuff tastes like horse piss, and not brandy. Next spring he’s taking all his furs to the Hudson’s Bay Company. They have good brandy there. And, he asks what that terrible smell is outside? Smells worse than a buffalo jump in the summer.”

“Tell him we had an accident with the brandy. It fell into the river on the journey up the Saskatchewan. Got a little watered down. Tell him I’ll compensate him with extra tobacco and more brandy next spring if he brings his furs to us. As to the stench. Tell him not to trade us bad meat anymore.” Blanchet translated, and the Blackfoot reluctantly sat down again, still grumbling among themselves and giving Shaw nasty stares.

Shaw stared back, thinking. ‘They will go next door anyway, to see if the HBC has a better offer, as soon as they are done here.’

The next day, the Blackfoot traded a few wolf skins and left. LaFrance came rushing up to Shaw. “Sir, the good news; they left. The bad news; with half our horses.” This time LaFrance was already out the door before the litany of curses came rushing out of Shaw’s mouth.

Shaw looked through the open door into the fort courtyard. ‘Jesus, can it get any worse than this? I’m stuck in this shithole with these drunkards for the rest of the winter. And now I have to deal with a bunch of very belligerent Natives next spring. Who keep stealing my horses, then trading them back. And this stinking meat. I’m going to get sick.’

As the events of the day went through his mind, Shaw noticed a large black plume of smoke across the river in the southwest. ‘Great! And to top it all off, they set the prairie on fire as a farewell.’ It was before noon. He was about to pour himself a stiff brandy anyway. He stopped short, realizing they didn’t have any left.

…………………..

“They [Hudson’s Bay Company] allowed us the free use of the well for some time, but at last, apprehensive of its drying up also….from the quantity taken from it by so many for all purposes, Mr. Tomison, a powerful man, refused to allow us further supplies….Mr. Tomison would not listen to any reason, indeed I had little to give him — but that if he would not give us our wants that either of us must pay a visit to the bottom of the well.” (from the memoirs of John McDonald of Garth, c.1795, Fort George, Alberta, in Morton 1929:lxii)

A few days later John McDonald of Garth was brought into Shaw’s quarters, barely standing. Kind of wobbling. “So, what the hell happened to you McDonald? Christ, you look like shit.”

McDonald, scarcely able to speak, finally got a few words out. “Well, Shhiir, I met with that scoundrel Tomison and his men at the well and I beat them up pretty badly.” Garth burped, then wobbled, having trouble keeping his feet.

Shaw looked on incredulously. They were already indebted to their neighbors for the liquor and now this man got into a fight with the HBC – about what? Water? There was a whole bloody river flowing before his eyes and John fought over the spring water supply closer by?

“Well, by the look of your face McDonald, you really put a scare into them.” Shaw remained stoic, reluctantly waiting for John to speak. He occasionally exaggerated when he told his stories. Especially when drunk.

“I did my best sir. Shhoowed them who is boss of the water, I did. They didn’t want to share the well, but I thought otherwise.”

“And, where exactly did you manage to get a hold of so much liquor, man?”

“Private stocks,” mumbled McDonald, before nearly tipping over.

Shaw just stared at his soon-to-fall-down officer in astonishment. ‘God, please help me. I’m surrounded by idiots.’ He eyed McDonald disparagingly, thinking: ‘Well maybe he’ll suit my purposes. He owes me after this little incident.’

…………………

Next spring, after all the engages and voyageurs left for Montreal, Shaw took McDonald aside and explained his plan for a new cellar for the liquor. John nodded, fully realizing that if he failed Shaw, he was done with the Company. So, he and a few trusted men worked for months to build it.

That fall, after examining the large, fresh mound of earth beside the big house, Shaw eyed McDonald. “I hope you got it right, John. If you so much as mutter a word how this here was built, you’ll be buried in it. And worse, no more brandy.” McDonald nodded solemnly. ‘What could be worse than no more brandy,’ he thought.

“One more thing John. If my stocks start disappearing, I’ll be coming after you.” McDonald visibly grew paler at those last words, but said nothing.

Soon after, the men arrived from Montreal, their canoes laden with supplies and trade goods. Including lots of brandy and rum. Joseph was grunting and cursing, shouting out to Francois behind him, two ninety-pound bales on his back. “So, we paddle for two-thousand miles to get this stuff here and then we have to haul it up to the highest bank on the river. Why not build down along the river?” Francois said nothing, only grunted in return, trying to balance his equally heavy load. He was too busy thinking about all the brandy they would drink this winter.

Once inside their fort, the men looked around. Something was different. They looked toward the Big House. Beside it, a new building, of sorts. Just a large low mound of earth.

Pierre leaned over to Louis. “Is that a new cellar? Look how close it is to the trader’s quarters. Hard to pilfer the brandy stores when it’s that close.” They put the brandy barrels near the newly built mound and looked at the mound again. Strange though, no door.

Shaw came out of his house. He looked at his somewhat confused men. “Leave the liquor here, take the rest of the provisions to the stores.” His men nodded, looking back somewhat forlornly at the brandy and rum kegs.

Once they finished, Shaw gathered them again. Now they had tired-looking puzzled faces. His men knew something was up. But what? “Gabriel, break out a barrel for the men. Let’s celebrate after the long journey.” Shaw turned, leaving them to their revelry. And soon they were falling down drunk, having already forgotten about the new mound beside the trader’s house.

Next morning the brandy barrels in front of Shaw’s House were gone. The men walked around the compound, still a little drunk and perplexed. Thinking, barely. Now focused on only one thing. ‘Where did the brandy barrels go?’ They looked at the strange mound by Shaw’s house again. No entrance. Anywhere.

Shaw sat in front of his house, smoking his pipe, watching his men. There was a look of satisfaction on his usually stoic face. He took a sip of his brandy and toasted those closest to him. “To your health Pierre, men.” Pierre only spat in return. The rest, including McDonald, only glared. Shaw only smiled in return, relishing his private stock of liquor. Not even the smell was that bad when your private stock was safe.

……………………….

Fort George, Alberta, 1978.

Harry Reed and his crew were excavating parts of the Big House at Fort George, probably the residence of Angus Shaw and his country wife. And a large subterranean structure beside the Big House. Even though it was a hot Alberta afternoon along the river, everyone was happy. This was a great fort site. As he would later learn, maybe one of the best, and most complex, he would ever excavate.

“Jay, what did you find in that big storage cellar?”

“Well, all pretty normal. It’s a wood cribbed subterranean structure with the roof coming down to the ground. Poles, with bark and sod roof. Kind of a root cellar with a roof, probably all covered with sod.” Harry looked at the sketch Jay gave him, then at Jay, and the somewhat concerned look on his assistant’s face.

“And, what else, Jay?”

“It doesn’t have an outside entrance. We’re missing something Harry.”

Harry stared at Jay. Maybe a little too long. He hated these situations. Because you kept digging until you found out why the building did not have a door. Even if it took all summer. Chasing one little fact for countless hours. Was it worth it? Who really cared if you added that fact to the historic record. He did.

Harry looked at Jay again, wondering if he was getting too much sun. “A building without an entrance. Ridiculous, Jay.” Jay looked at Harry and knew immediately what he was thinking. ‘Find the damned entrance. Even if if takes the rest of the summer.’ So, they went to work.

A few weeks later, the project now almost over, the two men sat talking, drinking their beers, overlooking the large excavated storage cellar and parts of the Big House. “So, why would he do that, Harry? Did he want all the brandy for himself?”

Harry thought for a moment, took another swig of his beer before answering. “He didn’t trust his men I guess. Not with the liquor. That was the only way he could control the supplies. And those brass spigots for casks we found down there certainly hint to liquor storage.” They sat in silence pondering their somewhat unusual find.

Fort George, 2015

The little boy, holding his father’s hand, read the interpretive sign overlooking an enormous hole in the ground at the Fort George site. “Why would the trader have a secret passageway from his house into this cellar dad?”

“Maybe he didn’t trust his men, son.”

“But what if the archaeologists hadn’t found this passageway?”

“Then, son, I guess we might not know as much about the relationship between the boss and his men.”

“But what if it doesn’t mean that at all dad? Maybe the trader was too lazy to go out in the minus forty degree winter night and get some brandy? So, he had the men build a passageway to the cellar from his quarters.”

The father looked thoughtfully at his boy. “I agree. Except for one thing. There was no other entrance, except through his quarters. I don’t think he wanted his men traipsing through his private quarters all the time. And he didn’t want them in that cellar. Looks a little suspicious to me, son.” They walked off, still a little puzzled, to read another interpretive panel at the site.

Author’s Note

For many years I thought about the peculiar storage cellar and its even stranger entrance at Fort George. Although we looked for an outside entrance, the evidence was sketchy. The concealed tunnel from Angus Shaw’s Big House to the storage cellar was real enough. Below is a sketch of the fort showing the location of the cellar and the entrance into the Big House. The cellar excavation was incredible. The roof had collapsed into it and was almost completely intact. Poles, bark and all. For me it was one of those rare archaeological moments.

This is a revised version of Robert Kidd’s (1970) layout of Fort George, based on our later excavations at the fort. The final story about this fort, and who occupied it, has not yet been told. The layout of this fort, in a short eight year period of occupation, changed several times. In fact, in one of those versions, the south palisade ran through former buildings. And, many of the building cellars were packed with rubbish. This has also puzzled me for many years. I have been toying with the idea that after the North West Company abandoned this fort, someone else (i.e., independent peddlers, Metis freemen, etc.) re-occupied it. Presently, the archaeological facts just don’t fit with a single occupation.

Interpreting what we found, however, was the most difficult part of all. Obviously Shaw wanted a private entrance into his stores. But why? Was the little boy right? Simply for convenience? Or, because of the social distance and distrust between North West Company Scottish traders and their mostly French Canadian/Metis labourers? Other differences, including clothing, housing and food, and type of labor, also separated the Company officers from their men.

As is often the case, there is no definitive proof or one answer here. All too common when dealing with either the historic documentary or archaeological records. This story represents one of those possibilities.

References

Coues, Elliot (editor). 1897. New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest: The Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry, Fur Trader of the Northwest Company, and David Thompson, Official Geographer and Explorer of the Same Company, 1799-1814. Volume 2. Ross and Haines, Minneapolis.

Kidd, Robert S. 1970. Fort George and the Early Fur Trade in Alberta. Provincial Museum and Archives of Alberta, Publication No. 2.

Masson, L. R. (editor). 1890. John McDonald of Garth Autobiographical Notes, 1791-1816. In Les Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord-ouest: Recits de voyages, lettres et rapports inedits relatifs au nord-ouest Canadien. Volume 2. De l’imprimerie generala. cote et cie, Quebec.

Morton, Arthur S. (editor). 1929. The Journal of Duncan M’Gillivray of the North West Company at Fort George on the Saskatchewan, 1794-5. MacMillan, Toronto.