A CHINOOK’S A’COMIN: A LOOK AT CANADA’S FIERCE PRAIRIE WINDS

Hundreds of media stories have been written about Canada’s Prairie Chinooks. Few, however, delve into how plants, animals and humans may have adapted to them or used them to their advantage over the centuries.

A Chinook arch in the skies over Calgary, Alberta, Canada. The arch is one of the first signs that a Chinook is about to roll over the prairies. Hang onto your hats…

A Chinook wind, named after the Chinook First Nations People of the upper and middle Columbia River region, or ‘snow eater,’ roars down the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains. It creates high winds and rapid temperature changes to the Canadian Prairies.

When it first happened, I was about four years old, growing up on a farm north of Portreeve, Saskatchewan, Canada. I awoke in the middle of a winter night to the most ungodly, ghastly noise outside. The farmhouse shook, the windows rattled, and the wind howled. I was terrified, never having experienced a winter Chinook before – a name given to the Canadian prairies’ strong winter winds, sometimes reaching speeds of over 100 mph.

The following day, when I looked outside, the foot or more of snow covering the ground was replaced by puddles of water and sheets of polished ice. I remember my father not going out to feed the cattle because they could easily find the prairie grasses again.

What Are Chinooks?

A Chinook is a warm, dry wind that blows off the slopes of mountain ranges and reaches tremendous speeds as it flows over the plains. In other parts of the world, this wind is called a Foehn (Germany), Zonda (Argentina), Berg (South Africa), and Asi’kssopo, which means ‘warm wind’ (Blackfoot).

This diagram shows how Chinooks are formed and what happens when they reach the Canadian prairies. Image courtesy of CanadaWest Foundation: https://cwf.ca/research/publications/five-facts-about-chinooks-natures-gift-to-calgary/.

Where do Canada’s Chinooks Occur?

Chinooks are not entirely a Canadian phenomenon. They occur along the front range of the Rocky Mountains in Alberta, as far south as Colorado, and also in Washington State, blowing off the Cascade Mountains and Nevada (rolling down the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains).

While Chinook winds may not be entirely Canadian, their frequency of occurrence is highest in southwestern Alberta. On average, in the Lethbridge area, thirty-five days have temperatures greater than 40F (4.4C) during December, January and February (the meteorological definition of a Chinook). Chinooks will reach east into Saskatchewan and Manitoba. I have seen well-formed Chinook ridges in the Edmonton area where I live, but they were never accompanied by the high winds that occur further south. As the diagram on the right shows, pockets of high frequencies of Chinooks occur along the Rocky Mountains, even as far north as Grande Prairie, Alberta. 1 There are reports of Chinooks reaching as far east as Wisconsin. The image on the left, courtesy of OPENSNOW: https://opensnow.com/news/post/chinook-winds-explained.
On its way to the plains, a Chinook arch forms over the Canadian Rockies, where temperatures can rapidly change in mere minutes. Image courtesy of, LiveScience (https://www.livescience.com/58884-chinook-winds.html)

A Few Fascinating Facts About Chinooks

Chinooks bring sudden relief from the cold during Canada’s winter months. Temperatures can change by 20C or more in a few hours. Chinook winds can reach over 150kmph (~100mph) and last a few hours or days. However, in Alberta, these winds range from 16kmph (10mph) to 60kmph (37.5mph), although gusts can reach over 100kmph.

At their extreme, Chinook winds have set some mind-boggling meteorological records. For example, in 1962 in Pincher Creek, Alberta, the temperature changed 41C in one hour. Over the years, Chinooks have set several world records:

•World record for the most extreme temperature change in 24 hours: Loma, Montana in 1972, the temperature increased from −54 to 49 °F (−48 to 9 °C), a 103 °F (57 °C) temperature change;

•World record for fastest increase in temperature: Spearfish, South Dakota, 1943, the temperature increased from −4 to 45 °F (−20 to 7 °C), a 49 °F (27 °C) change in two minutes;

•World record for the fastest decrease in temperature: Spearfish, South Dakota, 1943, the temperature decreased from 54 to −4 °F (12 to −20 °C), a 58F (32C) change in 27 minutes.

How Old Are Chinooks?

Chinooks affect weather, plants, animals, and humans. But how long has this been going on? As a historian/archaeologist, I have wondered when did these winds first blow across the Canadian Prairies? And how did they affect humans living on the Canadian Prairies several hundred or thousands of years ago (assuming Chinooks were already present long ago)?

I asked a former colleague, Dr. Alwynne Beaudoin, a paleoecologist at the Royal Alberta Museum, whether Chinooks were a recent or ancient phenomenon. According to Beaudoin, a leading expert on paleoenvironments in Alberta, no one is certain since Chinooks leave little or no trace in the paleoenvironmental records.

“I can’t come up with a definitive answer – but I suspect the Chinook pattern would have been established early in the deglaciation process and probably became more intensified as deglaciation proceeded.” (Dr. Alwynne Beaudoin, paleoecologist, Royal Alberta Museum)

Dr. Beaudoin goes on to specify that because of the lack of research and data, the following points about the genesis of Canadian Chinooks are currently speculative:

  • The topography (Rocky Mountain range) that promotes the formation of the Chinook would be the same during glaciation (though mostly submerged by ice) and deglaciation (becoming more pronounced as the ice melted). However, the synoptic situation (wind patterns) that permitted the Chinooks to occur would be different;
  • The high pressure over the Laurentide Ice Sheet would have resulted in outward clockwise air circulation from the center of the Ice Sheet (see diagram below). This would have deflected the westerly airflow (from the Pacific) to the south. In addition, the ocean circulation in the North Pacific would have been different from that of today, and probably colder – it’s the generally warm surface water in the North Pacific that fuels the moisture brought by the Chinook;
  • The southwest margin of the Laurentide ice sheet (a thick sheet covering all of Alberta at its maximum 12,000+ years ago) melted back quickly. Was that because the Chinook became re-established early in the deglaciation process and helped promote rapid melting along the southwest margin of the Laurentide Glacier? It would certainly seem to help account for the rapid deglaciation;
  • According to Catherine Yansa 2 the plains along the mountainfront in southwestern Alberta were not ever forested, and the effect of the Chinook could be part of the explanation for that (as well as the rain-shadow effect).
The position of Wisconsin glaciation at 12,000 and 9,000 years ago shows the maximum extent of the Cordilleran and Laurentide ice sheets, the position of the high-pressure system, the prevailing wind direction and the position of Picea (spruce). Figures, courtesy of: James C. Richie and Glen M. MacDonald. 1986. The Patterns and Post-glacial Spread of White Spruce. Journal of Biogeography 13: 527-546.

And, there you have it. No one is certain because the clues to when the first Chinooks appeared are subtle and difficult to acquire. However, Beaudoin makes a valid point: As soon as the ice receded the Rocky Mountains were exposed (likely c.11,000 years or longer) and the Pacific Ocean currents warmed, the potential for Chinooks to invade the western Canadian Prairies was present.

The Effect of Chinooks on Plants, Animals, and Humans

Chinooks bring reprieve from our cold, snow-laden Alberta winters. They also create drought and wind erosion. It is no coincidence that the part of southern Alberta having the highest number of Chinooks per year is also one of the driest places on the Canadian Prairies. There’s little or no spring runoff in this area since there’s no accumulation of snow, and evaporation rates throughout the year are high.

Let’s examine how humans adapted to or took advantage of the Chinook winds. Large herbivores, such as bison and elk, were well adapted to deal with the harsh North American winters and would have benefitted from the more open grasslands in the winter. Did the Chinooks attract more bison and elk during the winter months? And also humans?

To the people inhabiting the vast interior this Chinook has ever been a joy and a mystery. When snows lay deep, and lakes were ice-bound and Indians herds were famishing, the aborigines, from the Mandan of Dakota to the Yakima and the Walla Wallas, sought to welcome this great spirit by incantations and long continued dances. If after years the white herdsman desponding as he saw his horses and cattle dying on the frozen snows, found cheer and returning fortune in its warm and melting breath.” (The Sheridan Post, 1908)

Many newspaper excerpts like the one above from Sheridan, Wyoming, all along the Chinook Belt of the American and Canadian Rockies describe the merits and mysteries of these winds. How did First Nations People and later White settlers cope with or take advantage of these winds?

The Plains bison, the largest herbivore in North America, was well-suited to dealing with the harsh mid-continental winters. First thought to have migrated further south during the winter in North America, it is now believed the animals moved into sheltered areas, such as the foothills, river valleys, and parklands, during severe winter weather. 3

Large herbivores, like the Plains Bison, are well adapted to North America’s mid-continental climates and roamed this region in the millions. But even these animals benefitted from the warming winds in the winter, which reduced the snow and made grazing easier. Did these periodic winds attract more bison in the winter months, and if so, did they also attract the First Nations people who relied heavily on this animal as their primary food source?

“…the snow was deepening and the weather becoming colder… we thought it would bring the wild herds nearer to the foothills….The cold was intense and the buffalo were steadily heading for the hills…We could see the herds moving westward…” (John McDougall, Morley Mission, west of Calgary Alberta in 1876.) 4

McDougall’s Morley Mission was located in the heart of Chinook country and near the foothills where the bison herds found shelter and less snow cover.

Even when further out on the plains and not within easy walking distance to the foothills, both bison and humans sought shelter in the major river valleys and coulees in extreme winter conditions. 5

Prehistoric Alberta and Chinooks

How did First Nations Peoples react and adapt to Chinooks in Alberta? Would they have taken advantage of the milder weather and followed the grazing animals into the Chinook zone? The big problem when positing this question is finding the evidence to examine it.

Humans would not only be attracted to areas with more game animals, such as bison, but they would also benefit from wintering in areas having less snow and fewer cold days. Archaeologist Neil Marau (Arrow Consultants Ltd.) has worked extensively with Blackfoot informants to record their historic seasonal movements in southern Alberta.

Marau and other archaeologists and Blackfoot elders believe that Chinooks played a key role in the Blackfoot seasonal round and were important in deciding where to camp in the winter:

“These river valleys had plentiful wood and other plant resources. Probably more importantly, both rivers are in the Chinook belt of southwestern Alberta and provided good wintering habit for bison. Bison in southern Alberta tended to move toward and into the foothills as winter approached, especially to areas such as the region around Okotoks and south where occasional to frequent chinooks that cleared or reduced snow cover from important grazing lands.” (Archaeologist Neil Marau, talking about the Blackfoot seasonal round). 6

These two maps show the annual seasonal round of two Blackfoot bands. On the map on the left, location #1 marks the winter campsite in the Sheep-Highwood River area, near present-day Okotoks, Alberta. On the map on the right, location #1 marks the winter campsite along the Marias River in Montana. Both wintering sites contained abundant wood, water and shelter from the blizzards, and both were located in the high Chinook area along the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. Both maps are based on Blackfoot oral history and are further supported by historical accounts and archaeological evidence. 7

Other major rivers, such as the Oldman River, running west out of the foothills of the Rocky Mountains onto the southern Alberta Plains, were popular wintering areas for both First Nations Peoples and the Plains bison.

Two maps of Indigenous archaeological campsites, southern Alberta, Canada. Both maps show a high frequency of archaeological campsites present along major rivers and creeks running out of the Rocky Mountains onto the Prairies. The map on the right shows the high frequency of archaeological campsites (mostly prehistoric) located along the Sheep River, which, according to the historical evidence (oral, documentary, archaeological), was a favourite wintering area for the Blackfoot in Alberta’s Chinook Belt. Readers should note that these maps do not depict all archaeological sites in these regions, only where surveys have been conducted. But clearly, southern Alberta river systems near the foot of the Rocky Mountains have high archaeological site frequencies.

As we step back in time, the number of archaeological campsites in southern Alberta decreases, and there are fewer sites along large river systems. But by the Middle Prehistoric Period (c.7,800 – 1,800 B.P.), relatively more archaeological sites begin to appear along those river systems.

As we move further away from the Chinook Belt, the frequency of archaeological sites in all three time periods decreases. 8

The above maps represent the three periods for prehistoric archaeological sites in Alberta. The dots represent archaeological sites that have been dated to specific periods (many other sites exist that could represent each period but have not been dated and therefore are not included on these maps). I have superimposed the intensity of winter chinooks over these maps and then divided the southern part of the province into eastern and western segments (shown by the dashed lines). In all three periods, the proportion of archaeological sites is higher in the west versus the east segment. The number of archaeological sites in the Chinook Belt is highest and decreases further away from them. Despite the problem that this is a biased spatial archaeological sample, there is a strong association between the Chinook Belt and relatively higher archaeological site density. Coincidence? Perhaps. Only more detailed archaeological research will determine whether this spatial pattern is a function of archaeological survey methods or a preponderance of sites found in the Chinook Belt.

The Protohistoric-Historic Period and the Arrival of the Horse

Tsuut’ina Travois and Tipi.
Astokumi (Crow Collar) and wife, Tsuut’ina people.
(Courtesy Bourne collection, McCord Museum/McGill University)

Once First Nations People in southern Alberta adopted the horse around c. 1720 A.D., the warming Chinook winter winds in the province may have become even more critical. Horses, unlike bison or elk, weren’t as capable of surviving in Alberta’s harsh winters. Here are a few historical facts about horses on the western Great Plains:

  • Eastern grain-fed horses could not withstand Alberta winters. For example, during the winters in the 1830s at Fort Edmonton (North Saskatchewan River), conditions were so bad that the fort’s horses were starving and dying despite being fed hay;
  • According to American ethnologist John Ewers’ Blackfoot sources, the horse will starve in four days without food;
  • Ewers’ Blackfoot informants told him that the women would peel off the inner bark of the cottonwood to feed their horses in the winter if conditions became severe;
  • According to American trapper and frontiersman William Ashley: “When the round leaf or sweet bark cottonwood can be had abundantly, horses may be wintered with but little inconvenience. They are fond of this bark, and, judging by the effect produced from feeding it to my horses last winter, I suppose it almost, if not quite as nutritious as timothy hay.”

Given the necessity of finding suitable wintering pastures for horses, how did the Chinook Belt factor into the selection of winter camping areas and travel? While the horse allowed First Nations People to move faster, hunt more efficiently, and transport larger loads of goods, having now to care for these animals in the winter became an extra burden. 9

Did First Nations’ acquisition of the horse necessitate an even greater use of Chinook regions in southern Alberta? Not only would people have had to move into these areas to provide adequate winter feed for their horses, but they may have had to move more often to find new pastures (creating more archaeological campsites) than during the Late Prehistoric Period.

“When the grass in the vicinity of a winter camp was consumed, it was necessary to move camp….Some bands, whose members owned large horse herds, had to move camp several times in the course of each winter for no other reason than to secure adequate pasturage. This did not necessarily entail movement of any great distance. A few miles, a short day’s journey, might bring them to good pasturage.” (John C. Ewers on the movement of winter camps by the Blackfoot during ‘horse’ days.)

In the diagrams below, there are far fewer historic period Indigenous sites (right) in southern Alberta than Late Prehistoric sites (left) primarily because the Protohistoric-historic period covers about 160 years while the Late Prehistoric Period covers approximately 1500 years (the latter, longer period allowing more archaeological sites to be created). But if we account for these different lengths of time, do more archaeological sites occur in the Chinook belt during the historic period than before ‘horse days’?

There is little difference in the relative percentage of archaeological sites inside as opposed to outside the major Chinook area in southern Alberta in these two maps representing two periods. The current data, albeit not a large enough sample, suggest that once the Blackfoot, for example, acquired the horse, there was not a greater use of the Chinook Belt than during pre-horse days. Do these data suggest that the Blackfoot were already taking advantage of the warmer number of days in the winter in the Chinook Belt during Prehistoric times? It may not have been a big step to incorporate the horse into their annual seasonal round. 10

According to ethnohistoric records, horses died during the winter and particularly harsh winters killed large numbers. However, was the winter kill the same throughout the Great Plains? Indigenous horses were very tough and could, up to a certain degree, cope with relatively harsh winter climates.

“Their front feet were left free to paw away the snow to the dry grass below. At this practice, commonly known as “rustling,” Indian ponies were remarkably adept….the Canadian North West Mounted Police, during their first winter in Alberta, employed Indian ponies which “were hardy, serviceable animals, and would find their own food under the snow by pawing in the coldest weather.” 11

Horses are relatively adept at finding grass under the snow. But the less snow, the less energy used to find their food. The Chinook Belt in southern Alberta would have been a relatively better place for wintering horses than elsewhere on the Canadian and American Great Plains.

For many of the Plains Indigenous tribes, and some west of the Rocky Mountains, the number of horses a family owned denoted wealth. John Ewers compiled data regarding the number of horses owned by various western North American plains tribes. These data might reflect how sustainable it was to keep large numbers of horses in different regions of North America.

Ewers’ data show that the Nez Perz and Cayuse living west of the Rocky Mountains possessed the highest number of horses per person. Also, those tribes living on the southern Great Plains (south of Colorado) had relatively higher numbers of horses per person (than further east and north). He reasoned that these higher numbers, relative to those of other plains tribes, was related to a lower incidence of horse raiding and milder winters.

However, when we examine the number of horses owned per person east of the Rockies, both within the Chinook Belt and further east outside it, the results in the diagram below show that they were always relatively higher in the Chinook Belt than those of the tribes living further east away from the Chinook Belt.

Put in another way, based on the figures below, one hundred Blackfoot people would own approximately 110 horses compared to only seventy horses for one hundred Cree and forty for one hundred Assiniboine people.

This diagram shows the relative positions of several First Nations cultural groups’ territories, accompanied by the number of horses each person owned in the tribe. Those people on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, ranging from as far north as Calgary, Alberta, to as far south as south of Denver Colorado all had relatively more horses per household in the Chinook Belt along the Rocky Mountains than those groups occupying areas further east (keeping latitude of the groups the same). While horses weren’t as important for the more sedentary Mandan and Hidatsa agriculturalists, all other cultural groups listed here were nomadic and relied on horses for transportation. Also, those Indigenous groups living west of the Rocky Mountain range, also in or near Chinook belts, had large herds. Furthermore, horse-poor groups, such as the Cree, raided Blackfoot horse herds, while the Blackfoot and Atsina raided larger herds to the south (Crow). While horse raiding was considered prestigious and created wealth for those undertaking such risks, this practise may have also been necessary for those Indigenous peoples who had fewer horses (and higher winter kills) and needed to replenish their herds continuously. 12

The Plains First Nations Tipi – A Dwelling That’s Hard to Blow Down

Humans worldwide used conical dwellings made from hide, canvas and other available materials, but these dwellings occur primarily among nomadic peoples in high-wind areas. In Canada, Indigenous people lived in conical lodges on the windy southern Alberta Plains, in the more sheltered Boreal Forest, and the often turbulent Canadian Arctic. Conical-shaped dwellings were not solely associated with windy landscapes.

Did the Canadian Prairies’ strong winds and Chinooks affect the dwellings First Nations people constructed and lived in? We are all familiar with the conical First Nations tipi of the North American Great Plains. It was the primary type of dwelling for these nomadic people living on the windy prairies. Wind tunnel tests on tipis indicate they can withstand speeds reaching over 100mph if securely anchored.

The tipi’s basic construction (i.e., poles, rocks and hides) and shape (circular or conical) were primarily responsible for its strength and ability to survive very high winds. How did each component of the tipi help First Nations people adapt to these severe winds?

This photograph, taken in 1878, shows conical canvas tents used by the North West Mounted Police at Fort Walsh in the Cypress Hills (today’s southeastern Alberta, Canada). During their original trek west in 1874, the force barely survived because they did not adequately prepare for the prairie conditions including the constant winds. They soon learned, however, that the one-pole conical tent, or bell tent, similar to the tipi, was the best temporary, mobile prairie dwelling. 13 Photograph courtesy of Galt Museum & Archives: https://nwmp.galtmuseum.com/major-posts/fort-walsh.

Three factors were required for the tipi’s sturdiness/strength and ability to withstand high wind forces: 1) the wooden frame and anchor system consisting of long wooden poles and rope; 2) methods of anchoring the tipi poles and cover, such as rocks, pegs, or logs placed around the base of the cover; and, 3) the size of the tipi (i.e., a smaller tipi would be able to withstand higher wind forces than a bigger, taller tipi, assuming all other things being equal).

1. The Tipi Wooden Three- Versus Four-Pole Anchoring System

Not all tipis were constructed similarly on the North American Great Plains. Tipi pole anchor frames consist of tying three or four poles together at the top and then anchoring them to the ground by a hide rope near the center of the lodge. Ten to eleven poles were placed between these main anchor poles to form the tipi frame. This wood frame was covered by hide or canvas. 14

How does the three—or four-pole tipi anchor system affect the tipi’s strength and stability? According to basic principles of physics, a three-pole anchor frame is more stable and less prone to wobbling than a four-pole anchor frame. This is especially true on uneven ground because the three contact points ensure a more stable, balanced base, than the four-pole anchor system.

The three-pole versus the four-pole tipi anchor arrangement (left). In each method, the three or four poles were tied together with a hide rope, which was then tied to a peg or large rock to anchor them. The four-pole anchor tipi was round, while the three-pole tipi was oval. At prehistoric campsites on the North American Plains, rocks (if not too badly disturbed when breaking camp) might reveal which type of anchor system was used to keep the hides fastened down based on the shape of the ring. The diagram on the right shows a tipi ring (DlPb-2, ring 33f) along the Oldman River in southern Alberta, Canada. This ring almost looks square with the four corner points oriented to the cardinal directions. 15

While a three-pole anchor system may be sturdier in principle, to my knowledge, no one has conducted experimental wind tests on each pole anchor system to answer this question with data. If both were used on the windy plains, then both would have had to be strong enough to withstand variable wind speeds. This would have had to include the high Chinook winds and severe Prairie summer storms where wind speeds occasionally were equal to or surpassed the Chinooks.

This map shows the annual average wind speeds (in metres per second) in North America and the Great Plains. Those Prairie provinces and US States bordering the Rocky Mountains receive the highest annual average wind speeds, which gradually decrease moving further east (although the Dakotas and Iowa still get their share of wind). On this map, a wind speed of 10 metres/second equals 36k/h (22.4mph) and a wind speed of 3 metres/second equals 10.8k/h (6.7mph). Map courtesy of, NREL (National Renewable Energy Laboratory), by Billy J. Roberts, 2019. https://www.nrel.gov/images/libraries/gis-images/wtk-100-north-america-50-nm-01-min.jpg?sfvrsn=2d7bea88_3 16

If the three-pole tipi anchor system is strongest, then in those regions of the Plains having the most frequent and highest wind speeds, would this anchor system be the most prominent? When we look at the distribution of the three- versus four-pole tipi anchor system, both occur in the Chinook Belt and further away from the Chinook Belt. Only the four-pole system (believed to be less sturdy) was used in southern Alberta, where the most frequent and highest Chinook winds occur. Their distribution then, in terms of their strength currently makes little sense if we assume that the three-pole anchor system was superior in sturdiness to the four-pole system.

I plotted the distribution of known tipi pole anchor systems in this diagram. Generally, east of the Rocky Mountains, with a few exceptions, the three-pole anchor system is more predominant among the more eastern Plains cultural groups, and the four-pole anchor system is predominant among the western Plains cultural groups. This is by no means a perfect fit, and until we determine which pole anchor system is sturdiest, other factors could be responsible for this distribution. Also, there are other ways to strengthen and protect tipis from extreme winds: 1) tying down and anchoring the poles and hides better; 2) using more or heavier rocks, or pegs, to anchor the tipi cover; 3) a steeper slope on the side of the tipi more which faces the prevailing winds (which was done); and, 4) placing a protective barrier around the bottom of the tipi.
In this diagram, I have depicted the top view of the three- versus four-pole tipi anchor system (A), a side-view of the tipi slope with the two poles facing the wind having an angle than the front pole(es) near the door (B). With a three-pole foundation, additional poles can be added easily without requiring extra ropes to maintain stability. 17

Is there another possible explanation for the three- versus four-pole anchor system? Clark Wissler, an American ethnologist, was the first to observe that the number of anchor poles was related to Indigenous tribal differences (and beliefs):

In a way, this reinforces the four-pole tribal distinction, placing their geographical group in a class with tribes on the northern border, differentiating them from a southern and eastern three-pole group in which the Dakota are the most conspicuous.” (American Ethnologist, Clark Wissler commenting on the distribution of the three-pole versus the four-pole tipi anchor system.)

Wissler’s observations suggest that the type of tipi anchor pole system that various cultural groups used held cultural and spiritual symbolic significance, which differed from tribe to tribe. The use of different anchor pole systems may have little to do with sturdiness; both anchor systems seemed to be sturdy enough:

  • Wahpeton Dakota First Nation Knowledge Keepers believe the thirteen tipi poles represent a trait to be honoured, starting with the three anchor poles that signify respect, obedience and humility.” 18
  • Also, the four-pole anchor system denoted the four cardinal directions, which the Blackfoot consider sacred.

2. Use of Rocks and Pegs to Increase Tipi Sturdiness

For thousands of years, First Nations people used rocks, then later pegs, to hold down the tipi cover and strengthen it against high winds. 19Thousands of stone tipi rings found on the Great Plains and Canadian Arctic held down tipi covers. 20

According to Blackfoot informants, the tipi rocks also “…weighed down the sacred messages that tipi designs depicted, so that their blessings would remain with the land and the tipi occupants.” 21

For some of the tipie ring data I examined, the range of the number and total weight of rocks was quite mind-boggling. We’re not talking about a few pounds and some minor pebbles to hold down covers. Rock frequencies ranged from as low as 20 rocks to over 100 rocks placed on the tipi cover. The total weight of rocks ranged from as little as 200kg (440.1 pounds) to nearly 1,000kg (2,205 pounds). Some rocks weighed less than 1kg (2.2lbs) while others weighed over 35 kg (77lbs). But if you’ve stood outside in an even mild prairie wind, these weights aren’t too surprising.

Winds in the Canadian Arctic can reach speeds of upwards of 50–100 km/h (30–60 mph). These wind speeds were nothing like those recorded during Chinooks but substantial enough to blow over tents if not securely anchored. Large rocks were placed around the tent perimeter on the North American Plains and in the high Arctic to secure the tent from winds. 22

Archaeologists working on the Great Plains have examined how prairie winds might have affected where prehistoric tipi cover rocks were placed, how many rocks were used and how much they weighed. A leading authority on this topic in Canada, James Finnigan, Western Heritage Environmental Services, collected tipi data from the Suffield tipi ring Site, located just northeast of Medicine Hat, Alberta, (EdOp-1) and lying on the open prairies. He devised a series of formulas to determine the kind of force certain wind velocities would generate on tipis of varying sizes (and weights). 23

Aerial view of stone features at the Suffield archaeological site, EdOp-1. Finngian believes the site was occupied during the summer months. It lies on the open, flat prairie and would have been exposed to constant winds and intense summer storms. Photograph courtesy of John Brumley, in Finnigan, p.77.
In the above two diagrams, James Finnigan has estimated how many rocks (averaging 9kg in weight) are required to withstand certain wind speeds. In the diagram on the left, as the diameter (metres) of the tipi increases so does the amount of force placed on the cover, requiring more rocks (more weight) to prevent it from tipping over. In the diagram on the right Finnigan predicted the number of rocks required at different wind speeds for different tipi diameters (metres) to prevent it from tipping over. 24

Using Finnigan’s formulas, I estimated how many rocks and the total rock weight were required on a tipi cover to keep it from blowing over at certain wind speeds. My interest lay primarily in high wind speeds such as those created by Chinooks or severe prairie summer storms. 25

26

When I applied these figures to the Suffield tipi ring data, 21 out of 26 (81%) tipis had sufficient stone weights to withstand 100kmph winds and only 8 out of 26 (31%) tipi rings had sufficient stone weights to withstand 125kmph winds.

When I applied these figures to other central and southern Alberta tipi rings (n = 56), the results indicated that 67.9% tipi rings had sufficient stone weights with withstand 100kmph winds and a mere 7.1% tipi rings had sufficient stone weight to withstand 125kmph winds. 27

28

Unfortunately, out of this sample of fifty-six tipi rings only five stone rings in my sample functioned as winter camps. These rings would have been most susceptible to the frequent Chinooks in the region. Four of the five rings were located in the high Chinook Belt while the fifth ring was located in the Red Deer River Valley, a region where Chinooks occurred but less frequently than southern Alberta. In all five cases the total weight of ring rocks were insufficient for the tipi to withstand either a 100kmph or 125kmph wind velocity.

If I might use a Prairie metaphor here: “Don’t go P***ing into the wind”, it would apply to the tipi ring evidence: “Don’t fight these strong winds. Hide your tipis somewhere more sheltered.”

If these results from the wintering tipi rings continue to show the same trends as we acquire a larger sample of winter tipi rings then the wintering tipis in the high Chinook season weren’t weighted down to withstand strong winds, namely because they were placed in the more sheltered, less windy river valleys.

Here is a summary of my findings regarding the use of rocks to hold down tipi covers, using a small sample of tipi rock rings in central and southern Alberta:

  • When I compared tipi rock frequencies/weights at Forty-Mile Coulee in southern Alberta of camps sitting on the coulee edge in the open prairie as opposed to those sitting in the more sheltered coulee bottoms, there was no difference in either the size of the tipi or the number of tipi rocks to hold down the covers between the two areas. 29
  • When I compared tipi ring sites present inside the Chinook Belt in Alberta to tipi ring sites outside the Chinook Belt, I found no significant differences in either tipi ring rock frequency or total rock weight between the two areas.
  • When I compared known Alberta tipi wintering sites to tipi ring sites occupied during other times of the year, there was no discernible difference in the number of rocks or total rock weights, either in the high Chinook belt or outside it.
Many tipi ring sites on the northern Great Plains rest on the open prairies where there are high wind speeds. While these ring sites were likely used during the summer and fall they were still exposed to high winds from occasional summer storms. I find the photograph on the right particularly alarming where the tipi rings are located along the edge of the coulee rim. One strong wind and… 30
A heavy tipi ring in the sheltered Red Deer River Valley, east of Red Deer, Alberta. While some winter rings were well weighed down with rocks, other winter ring sites were not. 31
Even at the same wintering site, such as this one in the Bow River Valley south of Calgary, some tipi rings were well weighed down while others were not. Ring 15 on the left contained 311.5kg of rocks while Ring 16 on the right contained 621kg. Both rings were relatively similar in diameter therefore differences in ring diameter don’t account for these different rock weights. 32

So what happened when the Chinooks came and the winds gusted to 100kmph or more? Perhaps, as Arapaho elder Althea Bass recounts, the people used other methods in the winter to prevent tipis from blowing away, regardless of what pole-anchor method or how many rocks were used to hold down the covers. This might explain why the wintering tipi rings in Alberta weren’t more heavily weighted down. For example, as oral and written histories suggest, wintering sites in Alberta are often found in protected and woody areas such as river bottoms or coulees, a strategy similar to what the Arapaho did:

“In the winter, our villages stood on low, sheltered ground near the river, where the wind and cold could not reach us; in summer they were moved to higher ground where they could catch the cool winds.” (Arapaho elder Althea Bass describing where people camped to avoid high winds)

Or, First Nations used other methods to hold down their tipi covers or methods to deflect the high winds that don’t survive in the archaeological record:

“In winter, there were windbreaks to shelter our lodges. The women went to the river in the fall and cut a kind of tall grass …The women bound this grass into panels and set them up like a stockade fence outside our tipis to shut out the wind and the snow. Then they pegged down the lodge cloth and laid sod or earth over it to seal it. When that was done, we were snug for the winter, however stormy it might be outside.” (winter tipi described by Arapaho elder, Althea Bass 33

Winter tipi construction and shelter. Arapaho informants talk about constructing wooden barriers around their tipis for windbreaks, substantially reducing the need for more pegs or rocks to secure the covers. Image courtesy of Althea Bass. 1967. The Arapho Way. A Memoir of an Indian Boyhood. Clarkson N. Potter.

Get Along Little Doggies…

The heartland of the old Canadian ranching frontier was the foothill country of southwestern Alberta, where the sheltered, well-watered valleys and the Chinook winds stripped the hills of winter snow made it one of the continent’s preferred stock-raising areas. Today the region in southern Alberta’s Chinook belt still contains a large cattle industry.

By 1884 the following are a few of the forty-one historic ranches that covered approximately 2,782,000 acres land along the front range of the Canadian Rockies, leased from the Canadian Government:

  • Bar U Ranch (over 160,000 acres);
  • Cochrane Ranch (355,831.749 acres);
  • Oxley Ranch (80,900 hectares (200,000 acres);
  • The Walrond Ranch (300,000 acres);
  • Circle Ranch;
  • Quorn Ranch.
The location of historic ranches in southern Alberta. Very few of the early larger ranches were located outside the Chinook Belt (shaded in green). The ranchers relied heavily on the Chinooks to clear the western grazing ranges of snow, allowing cattle to graze all year round. Few ranchers thought of putting up feed in case of bad winter weather.

The Year of the ‘Great Die-Up’: The Winter of 1886-87

Known as the ‘Great Die-Up’, the winter of 1886-87 was one of the severest on record, stretching from southern Alberta down to Texas. 34

This diagram of the United States and southern Alberta shows the location of most ranches (in green) mostly west of 100th Meridian and many of those within or near the Chinook Belt. Early ranchers were heavily dependent on the Chinooks to clear the snow for grazing, and many didn’t bother to produce feed in case of inclement weather. The result was the winter of 1886-87 and a disaster of enormous proportions, causing many ranches to go bankrupt.
The winter of 1886-87 was so famous it was immortalized by the well-known American frontier painter C. M. Russell, entitled, “Waiting for a Chinook.”

In Canada, the winter of 1886-87 hurt the large ranches in southern Alberta. The Bar U ranch near Longview, Alberta survived the disaster. The ranch’s owners were foresighted enough to put up winter feed and lost relatively fewer head of cattle than many of the other ranches that winter.

The lesson learned from that disastrous winter was not to rely entirely on Chinooks, which occasionally failed to clear major snow storms quickly enough, having disastrous consequences for those who were unprepared.

Today the Bar U Ranch in the Porcupine Hills south of Calgary, Alberta, Canada, has been designated a National Historic Site recognizing western Canada’s early ranching industry.

Canada’s Chinooks – A Blessing and a Curse

Our Canadian weather, whether in Newfoundland or Alberta defines who we are and impacts our everyday lives. The Chinook winds roaring off the eastern slopes in southern Alberta have affected humans for thousands of years.

This photograph, taken on January 12, 2021, in southern Alberta, is a reminder of the tremendous strength of the severe winds on the southern Canadian prairies. Not everything about these winds was good. Photograph courtesy of CBC: https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/video/1.5871938.

What if the Chinook winds in southern Alberta changed?:

  • If they stopped blowing, there would be deeper winter snow cover. Ranchers would have to feed their cattle more often in the winter. Our beef prices in the supermarkets would likely go up.
  • Fewer people would be complaining of severe migraines with the coming of Chinooks (a malady that is not entirely scientifically proven).
  • If Chinooks stopped blowing, major irrigation projects in the Lethbridge-Taber regions might not be necessary because there would be more spring run-off and hence more available groundwater for agricultural plants.
Sugar beets growing in the Taber area, southern Alberta, require about 20 inches (508mm) of annual rainfall to be productive. The Taber region receives an average yearly rainfall of about 8 inches per year (and a range between 95 mm – 442 mm or 3.7-17.4 inches), requiring extensive irrigation to sustain it. The region is located in one of Canada’s highest Chinook areas and thus receives little or no annual snowmelt in the spring.

Even southern Alberta’s large, powerful wind turbines occasionally shut down because of the excessive Chinook wind speeds.

This large wind farm in southern Alberta, near Pincher Creek produces significant amounts of electricity. But even here, high, excessive winds produced by the Chinooks, can shut these turbines down. When wind speeds reach higher than 55 mph (88.5km), it triggers the wind turbine to shut off automatically. While this seems somewhat counterintuitive current wind turbines have not been designed to take advantage of excessive wind speeds. 35

“Four strong winds that blow lonely….” When Canadian and Albertan, Ian Tyson wrote one of the most popular Canadian songs ever, was he influenced by those strong Chinook winds blowing off the Canadian Rockies? I can’t prove that he was, but I’d like to think so. Once you’ve experienced one, you never forget it. “And those winds sure can blow cold way out there.”

It was a Canadian Thanksgiving weekend in October 2010. I was competing with my springers at the Canadian National Spaniel Field Trial southeast of Calgary near Vulcan, Alberta. At the end of the first day of competition, we drove into Milo for the Trial banquet. I had two American passengers with me. I looked up and saw an ominous Chinook arch heading our way from the west. I informed my American friends to batten down the hatches because all hell was about to break loose. I don’t think they believed me until all hell did break loose, and the Chinook wasn’t just A’Commin’! It had landed in full force.

Footnotes:
  1. Historically, the Grande Prairie area was an open prairie as a result of both regular firing and the dry Chinook winds melting the winter snows and reducing its annual spring runoff.[↩]
  2. 2006. The timing and nature of Late Quaternary vegetation changes in the northern Great Plains, USA and Canada: a re-assessment of the spruce phase. Quaternary Science Reviews, Volume 25, Issues 3–4, pp. 263-281 .https://doi.org/10.1016/j.quascirev.2005.02.008.[↩]
  3. For one of the most comprehensive works on the Noth American Bison, see: F. G. Roe. 1951. The North American Buffalo. A Critical Study of the Species in its Wild State. The University of Toronto Press.[↩]
  4. From an unfinished manuscript, 1917:34. Provincial Legislative Library, Edmonton, Alberta.[↩]
  5. Chinook winds, while most frequent along the front range of the Rocky Mountains, occurred much further east, but less frequently, reaching the Dakotas in the United States and even Winnipeg, Manitoba in Canada. This large region would, therefore, have less snowfall build-up throughout the winter months.[↩]
  6. From Neil Marau. 2009. Traditional Knowledge and Landuse Assessment, Town of Okotoks. Arrow Consultants Limited[↩]
  7. Maps are courtesy of Neil Marau, 2009. Traditional Knowledge and Land Use Assessment, Town of Okotoks. Arrow Consultants Limited[↩]
  8. Because of the insufficient information about these archaeological sites, we currently do not know which ones were only occupied during the winter months. These are the types of data necessary to more accurately test the hypothesis that prehistoric wintering sites increase in areas of increasing Chinooks in southern Alberta.[↩]
  9. For a thorough description of the horse in Blackfoot culture, John C. Ewers’ work is the best available: John C. Ewers. 1955. The Horse in Blackfoot Culture. Smithsonian Institution Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 159.[↩]
  10. However, that being said, the resolution (the quality and specific information about many archaeological sites such as time of use, length of use, etc.) of the archaeological record is currently insufficient to answer this question with any certainty. It is a question to reconsider with a larger, more information-laden database.[↩]
  11. John C. Ewers. 1955. The Horse in Blackfoot Culture. Smithsonian Institution Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 159:42[↩]
  12. All data for the above diagram from: John C. Ewers. 1955. The Horse in Blackfoot Culture. Smithsonian Institution Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 159:42[↩]
  13. Henry Hopkins Sibley (a Federal Army Colonel at the time) developed the one-pole Sibley Tent while posted in Texas. He got this idea for his tent from the First Nations conical tipi. Short side walls were later added to these tents. The NWMP tents resemble the Sibly tent.[↩]
  14. According to various historic sources, the number of poles used for a tipi ranged from over ten to over twenty.[↩]
  15. Ring 33f drawing courtesy of Glenn S. L. Stuart, Permit 87-59[↩]
  16. What the map doesn’t show is where the most intense winds occur and how frequent they are. Even if high winds are less frequent in the Dakotas than in Alberta, people would still have to prepare for them the same way. It only takes one high wind event to blow your dwelling away.[↩]
  17. Image A, courtesy of Campell, W. S. 1915. The Cheyenne Tipi. American Anthropologist 17:685-94. Image C, courtesy of Pinterest: https://kr.pinterest.com/pin/58828338876329776/.[↩]
  18. From Saskatchewan Polytechnic: https://saskpolytech.ca/news posts/2022tipitrainingatprincealbertcampus.aspx#:~:text=According%20to%20these%20teachings%2C%20the,signify%20respect%2C%20obedience%20and%20humility.[↩]
  19. Dr. Richard Forbis, University of Calgary, considered the Father of Alberta Archaeology, estimated that before White contact, there were as many as one million stone rings in Alberta.[↩]
  20. We rarely find stone tipi rings in the Boreal Forest, either because wood was more abundant and used for anchoring covers or high winds were less prevalent in the sheltered forests than on the open Plains and Arctic tundra.[↩]
  21. From Todd Kristensen and Emily Moffat, 2024. Home on the Plains. Indigenous tipis connect land, life, and spirit. In Canada’s History[↩]
  22. Photographs: left: Kaj Birket-Smith. 1893. The Caribou Eskimos. Material and Social Life and their Cultural Positions. Gyldeddalske Boghandel, Nordisk Forlag, Copenhagen, 1929); center: courtesy Wikimedia CC; Right: https://canadianmysteries.ca/sites/franklin/archive/image/StoneRingsKamookak_en.htm[↩]
  23. For more detailed information, see: Finnigan, James T. 1982. Tipi Rings and Plains Prehistory: A Reassessment of Their Archaeological Potential. A Diamon Jenness Memorial Volume. National Museum of Canada, Ottawa.[↩]
  24. Diagrams from, Finnigan, James T. 1982. Tipi Rings and Plains Prehistory: A Reassessment of Their Archaeological Potential. A Diamon Jenness Memorial Volume. National Museum of Canada, Ottawa.[↩]
  25. At the Suffield site, the mean weight of stones was 9kg (19.8lbs) which is what I used in these calculations.[↩]
  26. Tipi Diameter~No. of Stones/TipiWeight (kg) of Stones/TipiWind Speed (kmph)
    4 metresw20180100
    4 metres60540125
    5 metres55495100
    5 metres110990125
    6 metres90810100
    6 metres1901,710125

    [↩]

  27. Keep in mind that my tipi ring sample size here is extremely small given Forbis’s estimate of there once being approximately one million tipi rings present in Alberta.[↩]
  28. RegionSite# RingsCan withstand 100kmph windsCan withstand 125 kmph winds
    Neutral HillsFbOr-57210
    40-mile coulee (Calder)DjPb2&3321
    Empress (Hanna)EdOm-13420
    Oldman (Stuart)DlPb-226242
    **Bow River ValleyEfPm-104400
    **Red Deer River ValleyFjPj-8100
    40-Mile coulee (Brumley)DjOu-42420
    40-Mile Coulee (Brumley)DjOu-2620
    Oldman Pincher CreekDlPm-24110
    Oldman Pincher CreekDJPm-21541
    Total56384
    Percent ‘Yes’067.97.1
    ** denotes winter tipi ring

    [↩]

  29. The sites examined included DjOu-2 (valley edge), DjOu-42-44 (base of coulee wall). All data come from Barry J. Dau and John H. Brumley. 1987. HISTORICAL RESOURCE INVEST IGAT IONS WITHIN THE FORTY MILE COULEE RESERVOIR. Permit 86-20c. Archaeological Survey of Alberta.[↩]
  30. From Barry J. Dau and John H. Brumley. 1987. HISTORICAL RESOURCE INVEST IGAT IONS WITHIN THE FORTY MILE COULEE RESERVOIR. Permit 86-20c. Archaeological Survey of Alberta.[↩]
  31. From Lifeways of Canada Limited. 1976. Archaeological Impact Assessment Alberta Gas Ethylene company Litd, CNR Rail Spur, AGEC Water Intake and Pipeline Right of Way Red Deer Ethylene Plant Site Area.[↩]
  32. From Brian Ronaghan and Alison Landals. 1981. Final Report Historical Resources Impact Assessment and Conservation Excavation Studies Douglasdale Estates (ASA Permit 81-38).[↩]
  33. Althea Bass. 1967. The Arapho Way. A Memoir of an Indian Boyhood. Clarkson N. Potter.[↩]
  34. “The impact of the blizzards in the southern plains in early 1886 was compounded by conditions later that year, especially on the northern plains. The summer and fall were dry and grass was in poor condition for grazing cattle. The first blizzard of winter occurred on November 22 and 23. Cattle had trouble digging through the snow to reach to grass underneath. In late December the weather turned very cold reaching an unofficial temperature of −35 °F (−37 °C) at Glendive, Montana. Bitterly cold weather returned in late January and a newspaper report said “more snow has fallen this year than any previous year in west Dakota.” Bismarck, North Dakota reported temperatures of −43 °F (−42 °C) on February 1 and 12. The winter weather even reached the West Coast, with snowfall of 3.7 inches in downtown San Francisco setting an all-time record on February 5, 1887.” From: San Francisco Snowstorms”. TheStormKing.com. Mic Mac Media.[↩]
  35. Photograph courtesy of: https://www.gettyimages.ca/detail/news-photo/with-the-rocky-mountains-as-a-backdrop-wind-turbines-at-news-photo/592768076?adppopup=true.[↩]

Leave a Reply